The Houston 04 SE

[911monty]

Originally Posted by 78F350

- if I get to starting it.

So far, I don't plan to drop the engine and transmission. New plugs, coils should still be good?, engine harness connectors should all get a good spray of contact cleaner, ...on and on.

As the wise Neil Young once pointed out "Rust Never Sleeps". Now that you've drained the water, oxygen is now working on the iron rotating parts. They will soon look like those brake disks. While rotating the engine will get clean oil to the bearing surfaces, what it won't do is get to the iron rings. The ring face contacting the cylinder wall will clean up easily. What will kill the engine is if the compression ring rusts where it seals to the ring land. Once this rusts there is no way to clean up externally. You can attempt to heavily "FOG" the cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil, then rotate attempting to scrape the oil into the rings, but I don't know how successful this would be on horizontal cylinders. Getting oil to the top of the rings won't be easy.

Edit. As soon as I hit post I remembered the piston squirters. These will help the oil control rings, but I'd still heavily fog the cylinders to get the compression rings.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by 911monty

... "Rust Never Sleeps". Now that you've drained the water, oxygen is now working on the iron rotating parts. They will soon look like those brake disks. ... You can attempt to heavily "FOG" the cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil, ...

I just woke up (still on night shift) and read this. I have Fogging oil left over from winterizing my jet skis. I also have about a gallon of marine 2-stroke oil, TC-W3. I'm going to get to work on this, NOW. Today's mission: try to save the engine.

-Thoughts on use of 2-stroke oil?
-Any thoughts on using compressed air in any openings to spread the lube and push out moisture?

[911monty]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I just woke up (still on night shift) and read this. I have Fogging oil left over from winterizing my jet skis. I also have about a gallon of marine 2-stroke oil, TC-W3. I'm going to get to work on this, NOW. Today's mission: try to save the engine.

-Thoughts on use of 2-stroke oil?
-Any thoughts on using compressed air in any openings to spread the lube and push out moisture?

I really like Mercury (Quicksilver, Mercruiser) Oils. The 2 stroke oil has a special additive package that is designed as you know to work in high dilution ratios and contain corrosion inhibitors for the top end. Should work well for rings. I'd use the Mercruiser marine engine oil in the crankcase.
Once you pull the plugs I'd get the engine spinning on the starter as soon as possible even if it's cables directly to the starter, much greater agitation to get water out and oil spread around the engine. With no plugs there is no load on the starter so you can spin longer intervals. Drop the pan later, time is critical.

[78F350]

Quick note... 3 plugs are out, the next 3 will be out in a moment... Mostly a light flow of oil from the cylinders with a trace of water.

Fresh coffee and back under the car now.

[78F350]

It had the slightest bit of break-away force, then turned smoothly. I don't have a good ratchet set-up that will fit between the crank and the brake cable, so I can only do small turns. My wife made me stop to eat...
Before turning it, I removed the front O2 sensors to drain oil and water. (Thx Woody, I'll pull the whole exhaust before I try to actually run it.)
Next: Making sure the intake is clear of water and jumping the starter with a battery pack.