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For those that don't know, the plastic interior on 97-99 is different from 2000-04. They're mostly the same ,but the 00-04 interior plastic pieces have a coating on them that give a flatter finish. I'm guessing Porsche started doing this to give the Boxster an updated look. When new the 00-04 interior does look better, but the problem is that it scratches if you even look at it wrong. It doesn't take long for the 00-04 interior to look beat up. Heck, it only took my dog 30 seconds to scratch the hell out of my center console and door flap. I'm not a fan of the 00-04 interior.! Needless to say my interior needed to be rehabbed. I was going to originally paint all the interior pieces body color using the 97-99 interior because it doesn't have that coating. Well as paint day got closer, I got lazier and decided to use the 97-99 pieces as they were. I did try and experiment with the interior pieces before putting them on. I coated them with Turtle Wax's trim restorer. It says on the bottle it's not for interior pieces, but I used it on the interior of my Dodge Ram and it made the interior look brand new. I put it on my truck six months ago and it still looks great. I wish I had before and after pics. The plastic was chalky and faded before I used the trim restorer. Now it looks like it just rolled off the show room. It's a little shiny at first, but that quickly goes away after a few days. I had such good luck with the restorer, I thought I would try it on my boxster parts before installing them. I figure worse case scenario is I would have to reinstall the interior plastics from another car.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pstml34yve.jpg Here's a pic of three A pillar trim. Far left is untreated 97-99, middle is 97-99 with the turtle wax restorer and the right is the 00-04. http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psdmnbe6y9.jpg The problem with 97-99 interior is the color. It has a grey tone to it that can clash with other colors. It's so much more durable that the 00-04 though. The good thing about the 00-04, is that it matches almost any interior color. I'm hoping the turtle wax interior can bridge that gap. Here's a pic with most of the pieces put back. http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9y0yfsto.jpg |
Another thing to note about the last pic. I've decided to remove all the speakers and airbags except for the steering wheel air bag. I've also decided to remove the stereo and lower center console. I'm thinking about making my own GT3 delete for that area using luan plywood like I did for the floorboard. Luan plywood is super light and strong enough. Add another 34lbs onto the weight loss for a total of 125lbs lost.
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Fun project! I'm also in the middle of re-doing my Boxster's soft-touch interior pieces. They are 2001 spec with the scratch-prone finish. I've got all of them that are exposed to any sort of wear out of the car, and am stripping all the old soft-touch finish off them. Some of it (side armrests) strips off a lot easier than on others (door sill trim)! Going to refinish with SEM color coat satin black, which I checked out a sample of in the auto body store and it's a perfect color match with the factory finish - and a whole lot more durable. Debating whether to clear coat for added durability with a semi-matt polyurethane 2K clearcoat over the top for the ultimate durability, or to just leave the SEM color coat (supposed to be quite durable in its own right) and call it good.
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I experimented with several methods to strip the coating. Lessons learned:
1. Plastic razor blades are your best friend for this job! Occasionally switch to new or sharpen for best results. Does not damage the plastic substrate. 2. I did find somewhat enhanced results when combined with a coating "softening agent". Ones I tried: * Isopropyl alcohol 70% works ok - I'd even step it up to 90% if I had hat. Put in spray bottle for easy application. Evaporates quickly, so work fast. * DOT4 brake fluids also works ok. Can leave overnight for more than one night even - won't evaporate. Washes off with water, but handle carefully. * Stay away from anything with acetone. It dissolves the plastic! I don't recall getting that great result with other hydrocarbon softening agents I tried (e.g., WD40 seemed to not help), but maybe increasing dwell time would help. I doubt it will be th magic bullet. * I tried hot and cold water. Seems like a little heat helped, but nothing was really the "magic bullet." * I tried windex, with ammonia. Not much help. (Maybe would work better with lots of dwell time.) * I did not experiment with many other softening agents, but read some used acids (oven cleaner?) successfully 3. After scraping the bulk off with a plastic razor, you can get the last bit with a scotchbrite pad. I used grey scotchbrite, recommended by auto body supply for paint prep for this. Works best with heavy-moderate pressure. 4. There are a mix of different textures (smooth to pebbled surface) and plastics used throughout the interior components (quite a few ABS, some PC+ABS, some PA6 GF 15/30) and even one rubber component (EPDM) used at the ignition key surround. Be very careful with that rubber piece. It's easily damaged. |
Was just watching Car Fix on TV. They were redoing Ferrari parts with the soft touch plastic like what we have in our Boxsters. Strip and repainted. Looks like the way to go.
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Love the plywood. I was thinking about doing that myself, but ended up getting a good deal from Rennline.
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I've always wanted to try mounting a 996TT exhaust to complete my RUF 3600S clone. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1453592820.jpg |
I haven't experimented on how to remove the old soft touch coating. I can tell you that the dishwasher didn't work for me. I can tell you, DO NOT use lacquer thinner on the 97-99 plastic. I had a small speck of what looked like paint on my center console. I put some lacquer on a rag to wipe it off. Big mistake! It made the plastic look chalky and there was no getting it out.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pscuhd9dw5.jpg Here's all the chemicals I used to get it out without any luck. Perfectly good center console that's only good for painting now. http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pscvgjq9vr.jpg Quote:
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http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0oivmtov.jpg http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8qs3hgti.jpg http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pscngqkk6e.jpg |
Ingenious! Love the console.
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I think it looks really good and everytime my leg bumps against that center console I wish for a GT3 center console delete. But I have oil temp and pressure gauges in the top spot and put my phone, wallet, and garage door opener in the bottom slot :)
PS the pedals look really good too. Quote:
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I'll have to dye the carpet some because the 996 carpet has some sun fade compared to mine. Not a big deal dyeing black. I'm 90% pleased with the final results. Almost free vs $191 from ECStuning http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psjbvf8stb.jpg http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pskwymdblc.jpg http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psklqyfmlu.jpg |
Wow the finished version looks really good!
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That pedal really helped me with my rev matching on downshifts. I have switched to one by the same company that doesn't have the two extensions, instead it has a smaller (5-10mm) extension that sticks out to the left for the whole length of the pedal.
It is like the one in the picture here, except that the whole pedal is satin finished without the little diamond grips. This vendor recommends a smoother finish for the throttle and it has been working well for me. The vendor (Brian I think) is cool, when I uninstalled that pedal I sent it to him to be media blasted back to like new, and he also sandblasted some metal wheel center cap emblems for me. SRP Porsche 986 Boxster Aluminum Racing Pedal http://www.srpracing.com/misc_images...m_ring_BU3.jpg |
I was going to wait until I went and picked it up before telling you guys, but I'm just too excited. I had the winning bid on a 2001 Carrera with only 37k!:cheers:: I really thought it would be months or years until I found a motor. The thought that I might have this thing rolling before summer makes me want to :dance::dance:
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Woody, just a quick but sincere thanks from the orient for taking the time to share what you do. Pics are cool, "thread is alive!"
Quiet but reading it all when updates comes in. Work safely mate |
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Very nice, congrats! I am one of those watching from the sidelines, keep the updates coming!
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Living vicariously through this build.:D |
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http://www.motorauthority.com/wp-con...oving.high.jpg http://www.boxster-group.de/ubb/ubbt...550_b_we_5.jpg Website: GEMBALLA - The GEMBALLA GmbH is a German car manufacturer with over 34 years of experience in refining and individualization of Porsche and McLaren sports cars. Regards, Markus |
I was interested before, now I'm waiting on the edge of my chair. A Carrera engine? M96? This should be goooood!
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Wood,
Is there way to retain the bumper and still get air out of the cutout ? Looks like one would have to take a plasma cutter to those bumperette mounts Maybe a euro bumper would be easier? Quote:
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You could keep the sides that attach to the bumper shocks, but that's about it. In my opinion and from my knowledge of looking at wrecked boxster all day every day. That rear bumper is only really good for rear collisions under 10mph. Anything more than that and you start getting into the structure of the car. I'm willing to take the gamble of not backing into something or someone running into me. I'm obsessed with weight loss as much as I'm after the spec look and getting heat out.
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Yeah when I back it into something it's really not going to be anything near 10 .....I would think the bumper would be important in directing impact loads in to the shock absorbers...no energy absorbsion over 10? Ouch!
So the rear facing side un bolts, and this piece has the bumpette holders? I have never taken my rear bumper off soooo that why I am asking. I belive there is a spec boxster bumper you can put in there and not block off the opening. It's already blacked out so it won't show under your grill. What tool and process did you use for the cut?...looks good! I image I would have to do a complete respray after...which is a drag |
gsr makes (made?) the bumper you are referring to. note that you lose the oem tow point if you delete the oem bumper (the gsr unit had a built-in tow hook). rennline sells a tow hook that bolts to where the bumper shock used to bolt to the frame. if you want to keep the oem bumper but still do the bsr-style vent in the rear bumper cover you can drill the rear bumper - a row of 4 or 5" holes.
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Yes I was imagining a row of 3/4 lighting holes along the bumper.....might even look good showing in silver behind the grill!
How are the bumperette brackets removed or can they be? |
they come off easy, or you can get a row bumper.
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It crossed my mind when I was removing the bumperettes that a 1"-11/2"round steel tube bumper might be easily made and bolt up if one were wanting to keep the bumper shocks and some protection while opening up the area for air flow. A hole saw in the aluminum bumper might be easier.
I made a panel to cover the bumperettes hole. Was also thinking about opening up the panel but have recently received a new louver tool at work and another on the way that will allow venting without exposing the inside view. If I ever get around to it... Enjoying the thread :) |
https://youtu.be/_TBHiW2ogl0
Taking the 996 out for a test spin. You can really tell the difference in power between a 986 and 996. I've been going up and down my street like crazy ever since I got the 996 in. Now I can't wait to see what it will do in a car with 500lbs less. I plan on putting mesh in the hole I opened up on the bumper. In fact, if you look at those pics smallblock454 posted of the Gemballa 911. Mine will look just like that. You can see through it but the mesh helps hide everything behind it. My front bumper has that same diamond shaped mesh. I need to find some soon for the back because I'm about to start painting the black items. I also plan on going with the bolt on tow hooks like Radium King talked about. |
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Wierd....my car just got smacked in a bumperette while sitting storage
Looks like something is bent as it is no longer sitting right ... bumperette mount perhaps. I may have to go and do the cut now....bumperettes were painted too |
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pswynaey27.jpg
Isn't my 3.4 pretty? Here's a pic of a box with the bumper cover removed http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psxrxfatst.jpg |
YES! Very Pretty! This thing is gonna ROCK! I really hate you!
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http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psa5gfi2wf.jpg
Painting day take two. This is what a polished turd looks like. Those wheels should have been thrown in the scrap pile but I decided to throw a coat of paint on them. http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psugyj3s8u.jpg |
Paint!!!!
F- Yeah. Looks great. and on wheels whatever, right....
are you getting any heat into them to really cure the paint? m |
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Oh, and be careful about the lug bolt mounting surfaces - these should either be stripped of paint or only really thinly painted to get the right torque. |
Those wheels are awesome
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Thanks Guys
[QUOTE=PaulDash;484465]They look great. I guess you won't be taking them apart with those screws painted over.QUOTE] The bolts are just for show and made out of a super cheap aluminum. The wheels are a one piece cast Chinese knock off. The wheels are semi-temporary and will never see a track or any kind of abuse. I bought them and didn't realize how cheap they were until I started to restore them. |
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