What oil would you recommend (ctxt!)

[FrayAdjacent]

I'm going to be changing the oil in my recently aquired 2001 Boxster. I have no idea when the oil was last changed, and since I'm doing and have done a lot of periodic maintenance, I might as well do the oil!

I will be using Mobile One Synthetic, for sure, but I'm not sure which weight will be best.

GIVEN:

- My daily commute is short, the engine will be up to operating temperature within a mile of destination
- I drive few enough miles that I likely won't be changing it again for 12 months
- It gets HOT here in Texas in the summer
- It doesn't usually get below freezing for long in the winter

In you guys' opinions, would it be better to use a 10W40, or 15W50? I think the 40 weight, so that it will flow better in my short trips, where the engine is barely up to operating temperature by the time I get to work (or get home)... but I'm thinking the 50 weight, because it gets HOT here in the summer.

Would 50 weight be OK given that we rarely ever get below freezing here? We DO have weather below 50 degrees quite a bit, but lower than 40 is much more rare.

I appreciate your experienced input.

Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40 are the recommendations by Porsche.

[Travis]

Porsche recommends Mobil 1 0-40 and that is what I use in mine.

Fray, you might want to look into Redline's oil products too. Some Forum members here speak very highly of these oil products.

I am currently running Redline 5W40. I don't have enough experience with the product yet to make any statements.

[porschedude]

I use 10W30 Mobil 1 in Texas. I think 10W40 or 0W40 will be fine too. Yes, Porsche recommends Mobil 1 but I think other brands are fine too.

[FrayAdjacent]

Well, I'd check into Amsoil, but for this change, I'm going to have to go with something locally available. Walmart has a ton of Mobil One.

Maybe later in the year for the next oil change, I'll look into something like Amsoil.

(used Amsoil once in my previous car... it was great oil! The first tank of gas after the oil change rated about 4mpg more than the previous tank, under similar conditions. It went back down to average over a few tanks, tho)

[UroTrash]

Fray, don't be fooled by what it says in your owner's manual.

As noted above Porsche has changed their minds about viscosities in cars old and new (well, at least liquid cooled cars) and now recommends the Zero-W40 for all of them despite the data in the owner's manual..

[CJ_Boxster]

I have a question, and its pretty stupid... Is 40 Weight the same as 0-w40?

[UroTrash]

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster

I have a question, and its pretty stupid... Is 40 Weight the same as 0-w40?

No Far from it.

Straight 40 weight is really really thick when its cold. 0-w40 flows like "zero" (actually not exactly zero, but close) when cold, and acts like 40 when hot. A true miracle of nature that.

[CJ_Boxster]

I just got off the phone with Royal Purple, while i know they dont have 0-W40, I asked if there was a way I can leave a message or suggestion of making a 0-W40 for Porsche Boxsters and they said that they are already developing that weight cause there are alot of desiels and clean cars that use 0 weights for emissions, So soon we shall have 0-w40 from Royal Purple.

Right now Im using Royal Purple 5-W50 which is bad.... but the car does run much better than it with the correct weight of mobile oil. I've used the correct weights in my other cars i've had and that oil is nothing short of amazing... i mean it litterally polished my cams and bearings on my 1967 mustangs and 300zx TwinTurbos.

I just cant wait for the correct weight from RP!!!! I'll soon change my gear oil and will use the Royal Purple brand, especially since i have 103,000 miles on the syncros.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster

I have a question, and its pretty stupid... Is 40 Weight the same as 0-w40?

Hi,

No, it's not the same. Multi-weight, or Multi-viscosity Oils contain long-chain molecules called polymers. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up which allow the oil to flow as an Oil with the 1st number (W) weight.

But, when the oil warms up, the polymers unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it would otherwise. The result is that at 100° C, the oil will thin as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-viscosity oil is to think of a 0W-40 as a 0 weight oil that will not thin more than a 40 weight would when hot. Hope this Helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[CJ_Boxster]

it does, thanks jim

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Oil is one of those things where Better is really only better if you have the need, or can actually use the advantage(s), one oil has over another.

For a Street driven Boxster, Mobil 1 is more than adequate. Is it as good as Royal Purple, Red Line or Amsoil? There can be measurable differences in the Lab, which are either not present in real life, or unnecessary.

If a car engine can go 300k mi. on Red Line without excessive wear, using Mobil may be just as good for 298k mi. with the same result. But, if the Red Line (or other premium brands) cost 10%-20% more than Mobil 1, then there is probably no positive cost/benefit to using it.

If you're racing the car, the premium oils may have advantages which you will actually realize, such as high-temp performance and such. But, again, in a street car, you'll probably never need, or realize, these advantages.

The one thing to realize is that you're never going to hurt the car using Mobil 1, it's a very good Oil. And, you probably won't forestall any breakdown or reduce repair costs when using any of the premiums over Mobil 1 either, it'll just cost you more.

The key is proper change intervals, and from all the research, this appears to be between 7500 and 10k mi. Porsche says longer, but their interval was established as much with Marketing in mind as actual testing. Also, the Porsche interval is qualified to be under ideal driving conditions which almost no one encounters. Your region's avg. temps, the environment in your area (such as Dusty - anyone regularly using the Expressway falls into this category), and your driving style can all reduce the recommended change interval. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[CJ_Boxster]

Thats true, but i like havin peice of mind knowing that I've experienced better results with RP over Mobile1 and that since i opted for Royal Purple, i have more peice of mind knowing that if i decide to autox or drive the engine harder or higher rpms, that i have purchased the oil that has a better reputation (in my eyes) as far as internal engine protection goes.

Maybe if Mobile1 had polishing molicules then i would switch back, but I've come to trust RP over the years. I guess you have to try it before you dismiss it as marketing hype.

[Brucelee]

I would use Red Line 5W-40 oil. For your application, I consider it superior to the M1 0W-40. This oil will cover you in summer and winter and frankly, if you race the car too.

M1 is good, Red Line is better, based on the data sheets and used oil analysis.

I would NOT use 15-50 weight oil UNLESS you are actually tracking the car hard.

Do NOT use a straight weight oil in the car, period.

Those are the only two oils I would recommend at this time.

Good luck.

[chgolatin2]

Amsoil is the best oil PERIOD! No other oil company has done extensive research and development, a bit on the expensive side but its worth it. Becomes cheaper if you become a wholesale member. Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple are all good products however my personal pref is Amsoil....

If you look into your "MANUAL" it should answer all of your questions. Or you can place a call into the stealership and they will be happy to assist you and take your money in the process, lol!

Good luck!

[Brucelee]

Originally Posted by chgolatin2

Amsoil is the best oil PERIOD! No other oil company has done extensive research and development, a bit on the expensive side but its worth it. Becomes cheaper if you become a wholesale member. Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple are all good products however my personal pref is Amsoil....

If you look into your "MANUAL" it should answer all of your questions. Or you can place a call into the stealership and they will be happy to assist you and take your money in the process, lol!

Good luck!

Sorry, that dog won't hunt. AMSOIL is a very good PAO oil, but it does NOT do better in UOA nor is its base oil better than Red Line's Polyolester.

Since you can buy Red Line for the same price as the M1 or the Amsoil, I would recommend the Red Line over the other two.

All are excellent oils.

[Brucelee]

:No other oil company has done extensive research and development",

This is one of the funnier lines I have seen. I know it comes right from the AMSOIL website literature.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Oil questions will always bring varying replies because there is a lot of Brand Loyalty out there generously promoted by the Oil Cos. themselves.

In a search for empirical truth, there is probably one Oil which is better than the others. But, these advantages are mostly unrealizable on a street car which changes it's oil every 7500 mi. or so.

As stated, any of these Oils, changed properly, will give as much benefit and protection as any of the others to within the nth degree. Cost therefore becomes a factor, because to pay more for advantages you cannot use means you're not really getting anything for your extra money.

But, people also have their favorites and derive the intangible of simply feeling better about having Brand X vs Brand Y and that's OK, choice makes America great.

Whatever, use any of the several Oils mentioned here (whatever your reasoning for choosing it), and you'll be OK.

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[paulv]

And to add more confusion to the "which oil should I use", here's the TSB that Porsche put out last Jul 06 for the approved oils (except Cayenne)

http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Porsche/1154070000000_1159426800000_12-06/12061.html

Regards,
paul...