Replacing Rear Struts - Axle Nut or CV Bolts

[Danimal]

Getting ready to install the rear PSS9s. To remove the old struts would you undo the axle nut or the CV joint to move the hub? I’ve seen it done both ways.

Bonus question, if I use a spring compressor, could I get away without undoing the axle at either end? When I used it on the front springs I got a lot of clearance. Is this just wishful thinking?

[tcoradeschi]

I replaced struts a couple summers ago, and chose to remove the screws which attach the inner CV to the trans. It was a little awkward to work with afterwards, but I don’t have a socket to free the axle nut, and we were in the middle of the Covid lockdown, so…

[spdrcr21]

I initially used removed the CV Bolts, but noticed I had torn axle boots so had to remove the axle nuts to have the axles rebuilt. If you have time now might be a good time to replace your axle boots.

[Danimal]

Thanks, for the advice. I tried to remove the axle nut and threw in the towel. I used a 27” breaker bar and about two feet of pipe. Started bouncing on it and it looked like the socket was going to break off the bar. I could get an impact wrench and give it a go, but I think I’m going to pay to have these ones installed with my corner balance and alignment.

My hats off to you do-it-yourselfers.

[986tate]

I nearly broke my craftsman 3/4 breaker with a jack handle doing that. Probably still prefer it to all those little bolts and loctite

[Danimal]

I hear ya, high torque and tight spaces are no fun.

Originally Posted by 986tate

I nearly broke my craftsman 3/4 breaker with a jack handle doing that. Probably still prefer it to all those little bolts and loctite

[JFP in PA]

Don't know what the problem is here; 3/4 drive Chicago Pneumatic gun spins the axle nut right off, and a 45 inch long Snap-On digital 0-600 ft pound torque wrench tightens it right up........

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Don't know what the problem is here; 3/4 drive Chicago Pneumatic gun spins the axle nut right off, and a 45 inch long Snap-On digital 0-600 ft pound torque wrench tightens it right up........

That…or (when you're replacing that nut) utilize a little HS physics. Put the socket with a healthy-sized ratchet on it, employ a long breaker bar, and apply some basic math. Wayne explains it nicely in his "101 Projects":




Replaced a front wheel bearing a dozen years ago using this approach. It's still doing great…

[Danimal]

That’s basically what I did trying to get it off. But my breaker bar is a cheapy 1/2” from harbor freight and looked ready to snap with me bouncing my weight on it. Given the length i used there should have been over 400 ft lbs on it.

I probably should have just bought an impact wrench and gone for it, but I was feeling pretty defeated after how long the fronts took me and my time is limited these days. We’re in the middle of a remodel and the start of a new school year for our young kids. I was getting a lot of looks for the amount of time I was spending in the garage!

Originally Posted by Frodo

That…or (when you're replacing that nut) utilize a little HS physics. Put the socket with a healthy-sized ratchet on it, employ a long breaker bar, and apply some basic math. Wayne explains it nicely in his "101 Projects":




Replaced a front wheel bearing a dozen years ago using this approach. It's still doing great…

[ike84]

When I replaced mine 2 years ago I used compression clamps and did not have to undo either

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