Fixing The Start Up Rattle

[robmints]

Hi guys. All help appreciated.

01 base. LN ceramic IMS no oil line. LN oil filter base.

Bank1. 7.1
Bank2. 4

Start up rattle that is a bit transient and not on all cold starts, or long periods of sitting. Can happen any time. Most common cold but not necessarily. Does happen more often now that I got a new battery.

In my Pelican cart I have all 3 tensioners w/crush washers. New guide rail with pad/ clip/ bolt oring. 2 FU/RL ramps. 2 FL/RU ramps. 2 sets of vario cam pads. Another guide rail for the intermediate shaft. 6 End Plugs. Will get 5900 from store. I have the Baum kit for timing.

A couple of questions.

Do I need more info from durametric on solenoids or actuators?

How do I know if i have 5.3 or 5.7 abs? No psm on the car. Durametric is asking me at set up.

Can I get all the chain guides swapped with the engine out and valve covers off?

What book or directions should I buy? As you can tell i am only youtube trained so far.

Thank you!!

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by robmints

Hi guys. All help appreciated.

01 base. LN ceramic IMS no oil line. LN oil filter base.

Bank1. 7.1
Bank2. 4

Start up rattle that is a bit transient and not on all cold starts, or long periods of sitting. Can happen any time. Most common cold but not necessarily. Does happen more often now that I got a new battery.

In my Pelican cart I have all 3 tensioners w/crush washers. New guide rail with pad/ clip/ bolt oring. 2 FU/RL ramps. 2 FL/RU ramps. 2 sets of vario cam pads. Another guide rail for the intermediate shaft. 6 End Plugs. Will get 5900 from store. I have the Baum kit for timing.

A couple of questions.

Do I need more info from durametric on solenoids or actuators?

How do I know if i have 5.3 or 5.7 abs? No psm on the car. Durametric is asking me at set up.

Can I get all the chain guides swapped with the engine out and valve covers off?

What book or directions should I buy? As you can tell i am only youtube trained so far.

Thank you!!

If it is a 2001 it should be a 5 chain engine. You didn't mention the car's mileage.
Hopefully more experienced members will answer, but I am pretty sure you have to split the crankcase to change the intermediate shaft guide rails. If you do that you are talking about a complete engine rebuild.
I have changed variocam pads on two engines (one with 100k miles the other with 105k miles) and the chain guide rails were fine on both so didn't change them.
I would start by changing the adjusters (called tensioners in the PET) which is relatively simple with the engine in the car and see what happens.
I think variocam pads are a weakness in these cars and should be changed sooner or later, preferably earlier, but probably you can get away with not changing the other chain guides.

[robmints]

Thanks. 78k or so. My concern with not doing the vario pads is the differential on bank 1. I’ll make adjustments to my shopping cart.

[robmints]

Engine is out, on the table. Time to clean before I take stuff off.

[robmints]

Cheap American in bed with ccp strikes again. I bought a cheap alignment tool off Amazon. Wintools. The freaking slot, Not slot. Raised ridge is in the center, not offset.

What tool do I really need? Thanks again.

[robmints]

Ok I have one bank almost done. Bank2 however. How do I get the primary oil pump housing off to get to the bolts for the crank to cam ramps???

Info says it lifts off. It does not lift off. It is stuck on where it is driven. The pump is off and all bolts out. But the housing won’t “lift off”.

[robmints]

Woof. I found the directions in my all data. It looks like I need to take all 3 tensioners out at the same time. I guess I’ll measure my piston location in the bore on #1. Lock 1-3 cam with the new Chinese tool I got from Amazon that was correct this time. And I have a plate I made with the opposite offset I used to lock 4-6 cam when I did the ims. I’ll lock 4-6. And take them out in the order in alldata.

Unless you guys tell me no, I’m going for it.

I know JFP told someone not to bother with those ramps. And I should have listened. But I got lost on YouTube and watched Jake Raby saying they fail too. I was going to be right there, how hard could it be. The moral of the story. Either listen to JFP or ask for clarification.

[robmints]

Well that fixed it. Quiet as a can be on start up. If I do another one, vario pads only. The ims to cams ramps I would inspect with a bore scope and decide from there. The oil pump housing is fussy. All tensioners removed and slowly and carefully pry off. Reinstall not with the bolts but tap with rubber insulated socket, and tighten bolts as you can. Tap tighten repeat… slowly.

Oh. In addition to pads I would do the tensioner update. And I would replace the chains because they are so cheap. Wayne Dempsey, alldata, and YouTube university and you can do either engine out or in car. Engine out took about 2 1/2 days extra The repair took about a day per side. For me a day = about 4 hours. I used 5900. You use very little. I did the first side with a 1.5 mm estimate. Too much. Took it back off. Did it again with much less. Too much. Took it back off. Did it again with a thin film finger spread. Perfect, just like the factory squish.

I guess we are done here. Time to find another forum with actual people on it.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by robmints

Well that fixed it. Quiet as a can be on start up. If I do another one, vario pads only. The ims to cams ramps I would inspect with a bore scope and decide from there. The oil pump housing is fussy. All tensioners removed and slowly and carefully pry off. Reinstall not with the bolts but tap with rubber insulated socket, and tighten bolts as you can. Tap tighten repeat… slowly.

Oh. In addition to pads I would do the tensioner update. And I would replace the chains because they are so cheap. Wayne Dempsey, alldata, and YouTube university and you can do either engine out or in car. Engine out took about 2 1/2 days extra The repair took about a day per side. For me a day = about 4 hours. I used 5900. You use very little. I did the first side with a 1.5 mm estimate. Too much. Took it back off. Did it again with much less. Too much. Took it back off. Did it again with a thin film finger spread. Perfect, just like the factory squish.

I guess we are done here. Time to find another forum with actual people on it.

This is the forum with people on it. Just because we're not chiming in doesn't mean we're not listening... it's because many of us are "meh"n the rattle... inspecting our oil pans to reveal when we MUST do that repair. Kinda like the IMS, meh.

It sounds like you've some great technical skills to share with us. Do so. Don't shy away.

Remember: Thinkers are listening to you. So when you don't hear anything, know we're here. The listeners.

Have a great 4th!

PS. I bet on start up thhe sound is music to your ears.

[78F350]

+1 to Starter. A good read and useful info. Other than that I've got no need to clutter the thread with comments.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Starter986

This is the forum with people on it. Just because we're not chiming in doesn't mean we're not listening... it's because many of us are "meh"n the rattle... inspecting our oil pans to reveal when we MUST do that repair. Kinda like the IMS, meh.

It sounds like you've some great technical skills to share with us. Do so. Don't shy away.

Remember: Thinkers are listening to you. So when you don't hear anything, know we're here. The listeners.

Have a great 4th!

PS. I bet on start up thhe sound is music to your ears.

I’m listening


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[BFeller]

Yes. Thank you for starting and finishing this thread.