Driver side door panel removal

[jaykay]

Driver side door panel removal…. Got all the screws and bolts out clips around the bottom and vertical edges pulled and can’t seem to easily pop the rest of the panel off am I missing something is there a screw or clip I have missed

[elgyqc]

The Pelican article shows all the fasteners involved. There are screws in the storage pocket and behind the airbag badge.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/76-BODY-Door_Panels/76-BODY-Door_Panels.htm

[jaykay]

Thanks....I believe I am got them all.

For some reason the panel is stuck in the channel along the sill. I dont see any fasteners in that area.

I am putting signicant force upwards to move it out and it is not really budging...this is with the window up

I am thinking the leather has swollen over time or.....just try to avoid ruining things

[PLP]

I just had mine off the car.
Passenger side is slightly different.
I popped the bottom first and then slid it up. Yes, it was tight. Kind of stuck in the corner. Some wiggling and pulling/pushing from the bottom.

Of course you removed the triangle by the mirror, right?

Then, the panel is not completely free when you unclip it. It will stick to the door due to the door cable. Also, the lights wires are very short, so be careful.

[jaykay]

I did post all details from my apple device and something went wrong...pictures and file types etc.

I did get it out just as you describe with some serious force....so far fortunate to have not broken anything. its the top channel that was way tighter than it should be.

Yes all items removed including the mirror housing. The A/B and speaker are supremely heavy....do I really want to put those slugs back in???

I am going in for the regulator

[jaykay]

Okay so the objective here was to get at the regulator to see what was going wrong. Can I assume that all tension adjustment is used up in this mechanism given the position of the spring loaded fitting to the left or is there’s some fix other than a crappy tie wrap? What’s going on here is the green fitting can be pulled straight out and one can see a lot of slack in the cable system. Unless I can put a tensioning device in there somehow, the whole regulator has to be changed from what I can see. Any recourse here to save me pulling the glass and regulator?

[jaykay]

Completed this using a URO rather that a Porshe regulator as I was told that the former is more reliable. The change was not enjoyable but everything is working fine. I should have watched the myriad of YT videos covering this operation much earlier.

There does seem to be little differences between the two. I found that you if you map the original glass position on to the URO the glass sits slight too high when retracted......arrrrrrgh. Not sure if this is due to my marking method. I discovered this once all had been buttoned up

[BFeller]

Jaykay - Thank you for posting that information.

[jaykay]

You are welcome just check that on full retract the window is completely withdrawn. I am not sure the URO would have allowed me to push the glass in further below my marks. Retract stops are not adjustable. Projection to the top seal is.

Not sure if one could use the Porsche reg. brackets on the URO to get the best of both worlds.

It’s not noticeable or functionally bad enough for me to go in there again…more in the realm of perfectionism / OCD.

Perhaps the fitment on newer cars is better. I did notice the top reg mounts bolted up a little lower. I can post pics of the result if required