P1128/1130 - my turn

[blue62]

Originally Posted by jpc763

Thanks for the great info.

I am not home this weekend so cannot give the complete visual inspection. I was in there on Wednesday to clean the MAF. The engine bay is very clean. I do not remember any oily residue. The car was serviced in March.

I have a Durametric but nothing else to diagnose.

So with the Durametric you can check the MAF voltage and g/s.
Go into the engine module then click on actual values.
that will bring up a list of things.
Find MAF voltage.
with ....Key on but engine off..... MAF voltage should read 0.9 - 1.1 volts.
With .....engine running at idle...... MAF voltage should be 1.2 - 1.5 volts.
Let me know when your back at your car.
I will hook up my Durametric to my car and give you some running g/s figures to look at.

You can also buy a vacuum gauge for around $25.00 and I can tell you how to connect it and do a proper vacuum test with it.
If you decide to purchase one let me know I will point out the correct type.

Tell me how the car runs... do you notice anything different since the codes came up????? Does it idle correctly and at the proper RPM????
Are you using a stock air filter or is it after market????

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by blue62

So with the Durametric you can check the MAF voltage and g/s.
Go into the engine module then click on actual values.
that will bring up a list of things.
Find MAF voltage.
with ....Key on but engine off..... MAF voltage should read 0.9 - 1.1 volts.
With .....engine running at idle...... MAF voltage should be 1.2 - 1.5 volts.
Let me know when your back at your car.
I will hook up my Durametric to my car and give you some running g/s figures to look at.

You can also buy a vacuum gauge for around $25.00 and I can tell you how to connect it and do a proper vacuum test with it.
If you decide to purchase one let me know I will point out the correct type.

Tell me how the car runs... do you notice anything different since the codes came up????? Does it idle correctly and at the proper RPM????
Are you using a stock air filter or is it after market????

I am back home and just checked MAF Voltage

Engine Off - 1.01 v
Engine Idle - 1.31 v

I saw other MAF values in the list.

I have no problem buying a vacuum gauge. If you can point me to a good one I can get one and then follow the instructions to test it out.

The car runs great AND there does not appear to be any difference since the codes started appearing. Upon startup it can idle rough ~600 - 1000 then settles in at around 800 RPM (based on the notches on the gauge being 200 intervals).

I am using a MAHLE Air Filter - It was changed probably 2 years ago.

Thank you so much for your help!

[blue62]

Originally Posted by jpc763

I am back home and just checked MAF Voltage

Engine Off - 1.01 v
Engine Idle - 1.31 v

I saw other MAF values in the list.

I have no problem buying a vacuum gauge. If you can point me to a good one I can get one and then follow the instructions to test it out.

The car runs great AND there does not appear to be any difference since the codes started appearing. Upon startup it can idle rough ~600 - 1000 then settles in at around 800 RPM (based on the notches on the gauge being 200 intervals).

I am using a MAHLE Air Filter - It was changed probably 2 years ago.

Thank you so much for your help!

Looks like your MAF specs. (for those two tests) are within correct voltage range.
I will get you some running MAF specs. tomorrow or the next day.

You can buy a vacuum gauge at places like Orielly's auto parts.
Your looking for one that has around a 2 inch gauge face or bigger.
It should come with a section of hose and a fitting or two.
The most important fitting you will need is a "TEE" fitting.

Good that your using a stock air filter and not an after market like an oiled K&N they are hard on MAF sensors.

Interesting that the car runs "great" usually the car idles kinda rough when these two codes appear.
We will look at the MAF a little closer and see what a vacuum tests has to say.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by blue62

Looks like your MAF specs. (for those two tests) are within correct voltage range.
I will get you some running MAF specs. tomorrow or the next day.

You can buy a vacuum gauge at places like Orielly's auto parts.
Your looking for one that has around a 2 inch gauge face or bigger.
It should come with a section of hose and a fitting or two.
The most important fitting you will need is a "TEE" fitting.

Good that your using a stock air filter and not an after market like an oiled K&N they are hard on MAF sensors.

Interesting that the car runs "great" usually the car idles kinda rough when these two codes appear.
We will look at the MAF a little closer and see what a vacuum tests has to say.

As I said, it starts up a little rough but settles in.

Is this what I need?

HFS (R) Carburetor Carb Valve Fuel Pump Pressure & Vacuum Tester Gauge Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRJFSFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B51EGBDZ2G3WPSEA6KRE

[blue62]

Originally Posted by jpc763

As I said, it starts up a little rough but settles in.

Is this what I need?

HFS (R) Carburetor Carb Valve Fuel Pump Pressure & Vacuum Tester Gauge Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRJFSFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B51EGBDZ2G3WPSEA6KRE

Yes that is perfect....

So a rough or lumpy or hunting idle that smooths out at higher RPM is an indication of a vacuum leak.
But once you have the vacuum gauge I will tell you how to connect it and do the test correctly and we should know if you have a vacuum leak.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by blue62

Yes that is perfect....

So a rough or lumpy or hunting idle that smooths out at higher RPM is an indication of a vacuum leak.
But once you have the vacuum gauge I will tell you how to connect it and do the test correctly and we should know if you have a vacuum leak.

The vacuum gauge has arrived. Let me know what I need to test.

Thanks John

[blue62]

Originally Posted by jpc763

The vacuum gauge has arrived. Let me know what I need to test.

Thanks John

Take the car for a good 20-30 minute drive.

Remove the engine cover.
On the drivers side of the intake manifold you will see a rubber sleeve connecting the crossover tubes to the intake runners.
on that rubber sleeve is a nipple where a small plastic hose is connected. That plastic hose goes down to your fuel pressure regulator. Pull it out of the nipple on the rubber sleeve.

Now connect you vacuum gauge to your "Tee" fitting with a length of hose.
Connect the plastic hose you pulled out of the rubber sleeve to the "Tee" fitting.
Insert the remaining leg of the "Tee" fitting into the nipple on the rubber sleeve.

Start the car... just let the car idle and watch the gauge for a few minutes.
Note the readings on the gauge and also the needle action if any.
Your looking for a reading of 18 -22 Hg with a steady needle.

Let me know how it goes and the readings you get... also the needle action if any.