What should I do next?

[Strawfordt]

I agree with Jim.

I'm going to clean the MAF sensor this weekend.

I read somewhere that if it truly is the MAF you can know for sure by disconnectinig the electrical and then seeing if the troubles go away.

Hoping for an easy fix here. Cleaned and improved would be the best.

Should i change the air filter also? Seems like an okay idea to me!

I'll let you know.

Tom

[Strawfordt]

Hi again,

Anyone know which Torx Security head I'll need for the MAF sensor removal?

I think'it's a T20H.


That would be the male of female driver required?

[xclusivecar]

Exact same thing happened to me...flashing cel, popping noises,misfiring. Only when cold outside...the MAF was the culprit. Of course after the maf was replaced each O2 sensor crapped out...one a month until all were replaced.

Mafs are sensitive...by cleaning it you are most likely putting off the inevetible. Your gonna need a new one sooner than later. The last thing you need is to be stranded on the road when the newly cleaned maf craps out again. Remember...when the cel is flashing you must TURN OFF THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. Damage will occur to the emissions system and the cost to fix damaged emissions parts is unreal.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Strawfordt

Hi again,

Anyone know which Torx Security head I'll need for the MAF sensor removal?

I think'it's a T20H.


That would be the male of female driver required?

Hi,

Yes, it's a T-20 anti-tamper. The Torque value is 2-3 Nm (2-3 Ft. Lbs.) so go easy when reinstalling it.

Try cleaning it, this works if the MAF is only dirty. They do fail though as well, so while you have it out, note the PN# on it in case you need to order one in the future. There were several variations, so you need to know the one your car has.

Also, should the car ever fail on the road, and you suspect the MAF, just disconnect the electrical connector to it. This will cause a CEL (if you don't already have one), but the DME will go into 'Open Loop' and select a default MAP. Performance and mileage will suffer, but it will get you home w/o damaging the engine or emissions gear, service it ASAP. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[xclusivecar]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,



Also, should the car ever fail on the road, and you suspect the MAF, just disconnect the electrical connector to it. This will cause a CEL (if you don't already have one), but the DME will go into 'Open Loop' and select a default MAP. Performance and mileage will suffer, but it will get you home w/o damaging the engine or emissions gear, service it ASAP. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

You would think the computer would automatically go into "open loop mode" rather than flashing its cel and allowing you to do even more damage to your car if not careful.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by xclusivecar

You would think the computer would automatically go into "open loop mode" rather than flashing its cel and allowing you to do even more damage to your car if not careful.

Hi,

A failed MAF isn't going to damage the car/engine, just prevent it from running especially well.

The DME may already be in Open Loop depending upon what, if anything, the MAF is telling it. The signal may just be degraded (bad, but still functional), emulating the worst possible operating parameter, that is, at the extreme, but still functional. So the DME (possibly further confused by non-corroberating signals from other sensors like the O²s), selects the wrong MAP and the car runs like ********************. The DME doesn't know that the MAF has failed, conditions could be such that this is actually what the MAF is experiencing or sensing, that it's not lying if you will.

By pulling the connnector, the DME now knows that the MAF is offline and goes right into an Open Loop default MAP...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[xclusivecar]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A failed MAF isn't going to damage the car/engine, just prevent it from running especially well.

The DME may already be in Open Loop depending upon what, if anything, the MAF is telling it. The signal may just be degraded (bad, but still functional), emulating the worst possible operating parameter, that is, at the extreme, but still functional. So the DME (possibly further confused by non-corroberating signals from other sensors like the O²s), selects the wrong MAP and the car runs like ********************. The DME doesn't know that the MAF has failed, conditions could be such that this is actually what the MAF is experiencing or sensing, that it's not lying if you will.

By pulling the connnector, the DME now knows that the MAF is offline and goes right into an Open Loop default MAP...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Great explanation!!! I just find it funny that these computers know the signal coming from a sensor is bad, flashes the cel telling you not to drive the car, allows the car to run like ********************, yet isn't "smart" enough to bypass the failed sensor to allow a safe condition for driving. Manual intervention is needed.

[Strawfordt]

I cleaned my MAF last weekend and what a difference in the car. I cannot get over how much better the car runs. Alot more acceleration gained from this simple procedure.

Also for those who care, I also fixed the soft top problems that I had posted. I had to do it myself after this nincompoop that promised me the world and delivered me a steaming pile of ******************** totally destroyed my convertible top mechanisms. $450.00 was an expesive lesson.

I re-timed the arms using a level which was ideal. There is not even a creak during the top function now. I am amazed at what I learned about these tops. I really think that soft top mechanisms are a perfect DIY job.

Thanks everyone. This forum is fantastic.



Tom