99' Base 5 speed Cranks / No start / No codes / New CPS
 

Ok the title gives you the basic run down

Duremetric has no codes in any modules

Engine cranks

Immobilizer has no water ingress or corrosion internally
Central locking works normally
30 amp fuse is good (all fuses pulled and inspected)

Fuel pump does not primer with key on or cranking
Fuel pump will run with relay bypassed (still no start)

New Genuine Bosch CPS just installed (no flutter on tach while cranking)

I'm stumped, I think I've read a few dozen threads about no starts but none like mine.

Any suggestions?

If there's no flutter on the tach when cranking the CPS isn't working. So its either a dud or the wiring is bad or some problem higher up in the circuit.

Where did you buy the CPS? If its Amazon or eBay its probably a check Chinese fake.

Cleaned the connection and scoped it, now I get tach wiggle but still no fuel pump prime on key on or cranking.

I put a jumper on the relay and the pump runs but still no start

squirt a shot of starting fluid into the intake. Crank it to see if it fires, just to confirm spark vs fuel problem. Also did you check the relays in the rear trunk? DME relay and relay that controls fuel injectors and ignition coils.

Just swapped all the trunk relays from my running car, no change

I'll grab some starting fluid in the morning

Do you smell fuel after cranking the engine? Check fuel pressure at the rail and maybe pull the fuel line to make sure that you're getting flow.

I do smell fuel after cranking

One time I had the same symptoms (with raw fuel smell), and turned out to be a loose harness connector, right behind the driver (thank you Brad Roberts for the tip..)

After removing the inspection cover it's on the lower side right against the firewall on the driver side, good luck!

I read your thread, my primary O2 is plugged in. Thank you for the heads up.

I think she's headed to the dealership this week, it's too hot and I'm out of ideas.

As a data point, I bought a "genuine Bosch" CPS off of EBay. Worked for 3 days then failed in the middle of traffic(always fun!) Now I have crank, fuel pump tests good but does not kick in, no tach movement, no start. Have another CPS on the way.

silber

EDIT: Looked closer and the Tach needle IS moving during cranking, so my problem is not the CPS being bad :(

Yeah lots of knock off units in eBay and Amazon

I have tach movement now but still no pump prime

Can you provide a picture of this connector, or more instructions on how to find it? Took both engine access covers off but could not find any connectors on the firewall.

Cranked my car some more and I am smelling unburned fuel, beginning to suspect this connector.

EDIT: Tach is moving when I crank, so not the CPS.

Silber

Found this on pelican parts site on a no-start-no-code thread:

To follow up...it was a cracked fuel line from the fuel pump, inside the fuel tank. I replaced the complete fuel pump

So, you can hear the pump, and have some pressure, some fuel but not enough.

I am going to buy a spark plug test light and if I have good spark maybe try the fuel pump.

My problem is solved, hopefully yours is as easy as mine was.

Had my car at the dealer Friday and it was at a half tank and when it came out of the dealer was at a full tank. Got to thinking, dealers don’t normally fill cars with gas so maybe the gauge failed and I am out of gas rather than having a half a tank. Sure enough, was bone dry, I put in two gallons and it started right up.

Silber

Hmm, never thought about the gauge might be off ?

I'll toss a few gallons in

If you smell fuel after cranking it sounds like you have a no spark issue.
But I always squirt a shoot of starting fluid into the intake just to confirm it.
If I don't even get a cough or sputter out of it then I have a spark problem.
If I get a sputter or cough out of it then I have a fueling issue.

Weird thing was I smelled fuel after cranking even though I was on fumes don’t know how that happened.

So I have fuel and if I jump the relay I have fuel pressure

At this point I think it's headed to the dealer, I'm out of ideas

blue62 is right.
Another way you can test spark is by pulling a plug out (make sure your fuel pump is disconnected) and grounding it out while cranking. Then you'll have a clear visual cue.

I went through something similar. It ended up being a bad idle control valve. The unit on the side of the throttle body. I played with the parts shotgun and replaced just about anything fuel spark related chasing a start, but no crank issue. (Cps, maf, plugs, fuel pump, fuel reg, 02 sens, etc). Finally just happened to hear a slight buzzing from the the throttle body when checking fuel pressure for the 10th time, gave the ICV a couple taps, buzzing stopped, car cranked and ran like normal. Like nothing had been wrong. I put a bosch unit in, no issues since. I had never heard or read of one failing, so I looked over it multiple times. Just throwing that out there.

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