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Old 03-26-2018, 06:20 PM   #1
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Grinding in rear

Hi all,

A little bit of background:
After loading the car onto the trailer on the last session of the day at COTA a few weeks ago, I didn't wait long enough for the brakes to cool and I pulled the parking brake... So back home, first time driving the boxster, I feel and hear a metallic grinding noise from the rear. I also feel something bind up and pop. Made me worry, but in forward gears, all seemed OK. Same happens on that day in the parking lot at work. Next day, I load it up on the trailer and bring it to McIlvain Motors to look at it. Turns out that the right rear brake shoe had stuck to the rotor drum part.... MY BAD Nothing was broken, just the rotor needed to be cleanup up a little from the aluminum rubbing.

So I take it to the next event at Chuckwalla and all seems OK, but had to cut short the 3rd session because I could hear rumbling/rubbing on hard left turns in the rear... thinking it was the brake again. At that point, I also was suspecting the wheel bearing as another culprit. So I got it home and pulled it apart again and cleaned up / polished the inside surface of the rotor drum and the shoe aluminum backings until it looked and felt very smooth. I also adjusted the clearance, making the parking brake handle very tight now (not much motion required for firm lever force). Took it out again and still could hear a slight rub under cornering loads. So I loosened up the adjustment thinking it was too tight, but still the same thing!

WTH? The shoes look good to me. Will I need to replace the rotor? Or just need to loosen the adjustment more? Could it be the wheel bearing? I was planning on doing all 4 bearings during the coming off season. That side axle is only a couple months old...

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Old 03-27-2018, 04:14 AM   #2
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Where did you adjust the shoes? There are two adjustment points. One is at the shoes where you can turn an adjustment device with a screw driver. The other is at the brake lever where you tighten the cables.

To do it correctly you start at the shoes and adjust them so they are close, but don't rub. After that you adjust the lever so it tightens after a small number of clicks. If you only adjust at the lever you run the risk that only the shoes on one side disengage from the drum.
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Old 03-27-2018, 01:41 PM   #3
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OK I didn't know there was a lever adjustment.
But yes I did adjust the shoe adjustment until the rotor fit on them without rubbing on both sides. That made the brake lever travel much less, so I think I'm ok on the lever. I might still be a tad too tight on the shoes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anker View Post
Where did you adjust the shoes? There are two adjustment points. One is at the shoes where you can turn an adjustment device with a screw driver. The other is at the brake lever where you tighten the cables.

To do it correctly you start at the shoes and adjust them so they are close, but don't rub. After that you adjust the lever so it tightens after a small number of clicks. If you only adjust at the lever you run the risk that only the shoes on one side disengage from the drum.

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2002 Boxster S - NHP 200 Cell Headers,test pipes,Borla CatBack,Competition Plenum,74 mm TB, EVOMS Tune,Tarett UDP,Eibach Swaybars,BIlstein PSS9s,TuneRS rear toe links,wheel studs,15 mm wheel spacers on all 4,EBC yellow stuff pads,Sebro rotors, EBS oil baffles,160 deg Thermostat,2 quart Accusump,full filtration remote oil filter,rad fan switch,custom gauge/switch plate, Race Capture data logging, 90K miles
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