So it seems to me like the 987 transmission introduces some issues that maybe haven't been foreseen? Maybe these arise from a difference between the distance from the transmission flange and the throw out bearing and/or the distance from that flange to the CL of the crank position sensor?

I thought the crank position hole was a standard location across all VAG product transmissions. If they've moved it longitudinally, this also brings up the possibility that it is in a different location radially as well. This would throw off the ignition timing, and everything else that runs off that signal... obviously. Did you notice anything like that?

The good news here is that I'm picking up a flywheel and clutch from a 2.8L 30V this weekend. This is the flywheel setup that is recommended for B5 A4 V8 swaps where guys retain the original 01A transmission (I'm using the FWD variant of that).

This setup does not need the spacer between the engine and the transmission and yet is interchangeable with the same transmissions that the B5 S4 flywheel/clutch is, when the spacer is used for the S4 stuff of course (because we know that you can use the B5 S4 stuff on the 01A if you use the spacer).

So the conclusion here is that the S4 flywheel and clutch necessitate the spacer to increase the distance between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate face. The S4 stuff is very long in other words.

I suppose in theory if you use 2.8L flywheel you will be gaining that distance that the spacer adds. If you use the spacer in combination with the 2.8L flywheel, you'll be gaining even more distance yet.

2.8 30v Clutch Questions...

I shall install said flywheel and provide you with measurements good sir!

Yeah but 600hp is really really really pushing it on even a BEL code 2.7tt which had the better block, and at that point you're well past the point where rods are the weak point.

You could have kept the turbos in the stock location with this swap?

The turbos won't be able to be kept in the stock location without doing some cutting of the bodyshell. I'm not sure how much yet.

My old 2.7t had forged rods in it.

What's the distance between the the diff output flange and the bellhousing on your 01a gearbox? This is important, you might find you'll be needing that spacer the S4 uses.

Around ~138mm between the bellhousing flange and the axis of rotation on the diff output flange.


EDIT:
This is what happens when I do math late at night. Measurement should be about:

Driveshaft Flange Diameter (108mm/2)
+Distance from flange to bellhousing surface 138mm
= 192mm

I don't know if i'm measuring something different to you. Is the middle of the diff output flange the same distance to the bellhousing as on the Boxster 5 speed? If it's shorter that gearbox probably won't be suitable, if it's further it'll be fine. I'm offering up a 2.7t at the moment with the gearbox spacer and a boxster 5 speed, it's tight on driveshaft clearance.

What I have should be the identical transmission as a 5-speed Boxster... so it should work...

I'll look for an ID tag next time I'm in the garage.

I used this flywheel:

Audi V8 4.2 8 Bolt to O1E/O1A Gearbox | TTV Racing Component Manufacturers

with an Audi S4 B5 clutch friction & Pressure plate. Works on a 986 5 speed and 987 5 & 6 speed boxes.

I had to drill the transmission for the manual crank position sensor and use spacers to get it the correct depth in the bellhousing.

Everything bolted up easily in the end and works great. I like that i'm not using Porsche clutch consumables - much easier on the wallet.

Thanks, hope to have my bits all trail fit today with the clutch parts.

Hi Dave, Found your post buried a page or two back. I am going to want one, but am in no hurry. Have you worked out the final install yet?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1521150263.jpg

Cradle came back from powdercoat...dog would not get out of the picture.

Update:
We used this clutch kit because it's cheap and seems 'good enough':
https://www.europaparts.com/clutch-conversion-kit-52405618-valeo.html
All bits fit and the only thing needed is a 3mm spacer behind the flywheel to get the starter ring to clear when the drive gear is retracted. This will leave 7mm of flywheel bolt thread engaged in the crank with the included 30mm flywheel bolts and I want at least 12mm. I will either recess the flywheel 5mm or get longer bolt. I like the idea of recessing the bolt holes because the steel flywheel is very heavy and I plan on machining 8mm off the thickness of the entire flywheel to remove weight. There is plenty of travel on the throw out bearing, will actually be closer to the stock Boxster throw if the stack was reduced by 8mm. I'm guessing this will drop 4 lb. and still allow use of the OEM style clutch disc and pressure plate for rebuilds so cheap running cost once we are done. Keeping the motor NA should mean the clutch should be plenty robust for a lightened race car build...fingers crossed.

We are using the 11mm transmission/motor spacer, part # 01E 103 551C

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1521151347.jpg

I put the dog outside:)

I need a 3mm flywheel/crank spacer, anyone know where to get one? I can make some but would rather buy one...

I got my bell housing spacer from wolf auto parts. Give them a call, they have lots of used Audi stuff.
Not sure what size this one is: https://www.wolfautoparts.com/2000-2001-2002-audi-s4-b5-flexplate-shim-w-bolt-set-175459.html

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1521658505.jpg

This thread has gone a bit quiet lately, so I thought I would post something motivational.

I have completed my V8 swap and got it to the track for its first test.

https://youtu.be/7ecn5ByaAtM

Might not look like much, but its been 2 years in the building. Runs a 40v 2002 Audi 4.2 using an Audi ecu, Cayman 5 speed transmission (may swap to a 6 speed now I have the VSS problem sorted) volvo electric power steering, BMW ABS system.

Will be racing it in 2 weeks at High Plains Raceway in Denver in the World Racing League endurance series.

It sounds great! I'm considering picking up another 986 and doing an Audi 2.7t swap. I would be interested in your thoughts on the v-8 vs the v-6 choice.

I think the 2.7t is a much better idea for a daily driver or occasional track car. Can make way more power than the V8 and is probably an easier install.

I wanted the V8, as I was building an endurance racing car and wanted an NA. Turbos seem to cause a lot of issue there, difficult to get the heat out of the car. Plus it sounds great!

Big thumbs up on the sound of the V8! We are working on a universal cradle that will work with either V8 or V6 motor. Very close to having our V8 transmission, motor, clutch ready for the install. I have been doing due-diligence on the motor and the integrals are in much better shape than I was expecting so I'm calling that a win.

The video is too short

Did changing that value in the ECU program solve the VSS issue? Did you eliminate the cluster from the trunk?