Alternator Removal - been researching but a bit stuck
2004 986 Boxster S UK right hand drive
OK, having watched a couple of YouTube videos I am still a little unclear on two things.
1) one video suggests the alternator is removed from above but I can't see how that happens with the manifolds in the way.
Surely it comes through the front into the passenger compartment.
2) I have the belt removed and the drivers side bolt removed. It's a right had drive car. The more central bolt and pulley have been removed but I can't get the alternator to pull through to the front.
Any tips for working the unit out? There are hoses tight above the alternator. The engine block below.
The collar in the back of the alternator housing for the central bolt is seized solid so I plan to take that out and replace with a new one once the alternator is out. Is that feasible?
Many thanks
Derek
Last edited by Lanark; 11-06-2016 at 03:46 AM.
Reason: More info
It comes out the front. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster, remove bolts and maneuver the alternator around the collar and out the front. Once loose, you can disconnect wiring and finish the removal.
It comes out the front. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster, remove bolts and maneuver the alternator around the collar and out the front. Once loose, you can disconnect wiring and finish the removal.
Thanks for confirming.
I have two bolts out.
One at the lower left as you look at the alternator
The other on the pulley. I have removed the pulley and the belt. I understand the suggested way is for the collar to come out on the shaft with the pulley but I don't understand why that has to be the case or why the alternator won't come out with that collar still in place.
Yip, and I have everything undone, but it doesn't want to come out. There is a lot of friction between the alternator and the two points where the bolt with the pulley wheel goes through.
Yip, and I have everything undone, but it doesn't want to come out. There is a lot of friction between the alternator and the two points where the bolt with the pulley wheel goes through.
Derek, here's a one minute video I made just for you. I hope it helps.
Update: I started cleaning my garage and found an actual Boxster alternator and mount. I made an improved version of the video:
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
Last edited by 78F350; 11-06-2016 at 08:36 AM.
Reason: Newer video
Thank you very much for taking the time to make and post the video. That is very kind.
The bolt and pulley are off already and getting the bolt back in to free off the nut is just not happening as I can't get it aligned. Should I make up drift and use it to knock the nut until it frees off. I take it doing that pulls the nut forward a little and reduces friction between the captive nut and the part the alternator fixes to allowing it to come out?
I don't understand what role the nut plays in making it difficult to remove the alt
I just remade the video (to avoid doing actual work) and it explains the bushing/nut better. See the 'New and improved" video now in post #6.
Funnily enough I just watched that on YouTube to make sure I understood it right.
Great video which explains the tension nature of the fixing.
The new reg/rec arrived today and the brushes on the old one are well down. Got a bit of corrosion to deal with where the windings come out the alternator housing.
At the moment the captive nut is soaking in ACF50 to free it off a bit so it goes in nice and easy. Brute force on the hammer isn't working yet
It's now apart on the bench. Rectifier not showing any signs of corrosion. It's a bosch item too. A lot of surface corrosion where the windings terminate though.
Firstly, the locking bush has seized solid and my efforts to get it loose resulted in the lug shearing off.
So I bought a remanufactured unit, which also has a seized locking bush and has no other work done to it. The diode bridge and reg/Rec have not been replaced.
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