Need help diagnosing suspension clunk and steering wobble

[Gordons986]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

I'd just go ahead and replace the trailing arms, because with that many miles on them, I'm sure they are worn out. When I replaced my rears which were clunking badly, I looked at the old ones, and they looked and felt fine. But of course they were shot, since the new ones fixed the clunking noises.

Okay thanks for the help! ill order and replace the trailing arms and report back!

[Racer Boy]

Good luck! BTW, you shouldn't need an alignment if you only replace the trailing arms.

[Gordons986]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

Good luck! BTW, you shouldn't need an alignment if you only replace the trailing arms.

yea this is the bonus! was just about to order the trailing arms from ECS but i found out while i was paying that they wont ship to PO boxes. I have a PO box in washington so i dont have to pay duty and still get free shipping. I emailed them and hoping they get back to me on monday

[jedblanks]

Any updates on this?

[Smallblock454]

Noise at 4:20. I would say engine mount.

Wobbling steering wheel: Tyre balance?

Car tries to drive to the left: wheel alignment? Not even worn tyres?

Pictures: you need to check all control arms for play. You can't see from that picture if something is worn.

Regards, Markus

[jedblanks]

Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs)

So I found this thread and a few others since march when I got my 2001 Boxster S with 58k miles . I had a some clunks and a wobble, wandering steering on bumps.



The very first service I did on the car was a oil change and a brake job - new pads and change fluid. Rotors looked on as far a thickness. Pretty much my standard items when getting a used car.

After a month or so I started to drive more with the top up and on the freeway and I noticed the clunks around town and the wobbly steering at speeds over 60 mph

The next item I replaced was inner and outer tie rods on both sides. This made almost no difference at all.

After a month or two of clunking over small bumps at low speed, I replaced was the front and rear track arms. New TRW units cost around $400 total from elephant racing (front) and summit racing (rear).

That pretty much solved the loud rhythmic clunks around town, but the wobbling steering and occasional random clunk when unloaded after a bump remained.

I had a rattling exhaust baffle, so I changed that out and wasn't sure if the clunking was related to new exhaust.

The next items I replaced were front sway bar bushings. I did a few adjustments to bring more toe-in on the front end alignment.

Random clunks remained around town 10- 20. Wobble/ unstable remained Especially over 60 on the freeway.

So I ordered new drop links all around, rear swaybar bushings and engine mount insert,.

I was beginning to think I would have to go all the way and replace coffin arms, shocks and rear toe links.

When I changed the droplinks on one side, there was no change.

A week later the parts for the other side and rear sway bushings came in.

This time I made sure that I torqued the top bolts on the sway bar drop links to 63 ft lbs and the bottom bolts to 37 ft lbs (~450 in lbs as my large torque wrench wouldn't fit).

I was "shocked" and how many turns I got on the top bolt after it was tight with a 15mm and a 17mm backup. When I finally got it to 63 ft lbs, I realized that the other side probably wasn't tight either.

I think this was the problem all along -- one stinkin' bolt not tight. Its the same bolt that pinches the bottom of the shock to the hub knuckle.

So for those reading this in the future:
1) check the pinch bolt for the bottom of the shock - torque it to 63 ft lbs
2) change the front and rear track control arms.

What a hassle this was to track down!

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by jedblanks

Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs)

+1 to jedblanks

Thank you. I read your post this morning and went out and checked all the suspension points you discussed and, lo and behold, the right rear drop link attachment at the 'pinch point' required re-torqueing to the tune of 3/4 turn.

I had been experiencing a 'clunking' or 'rattling' noise over expansion joints while driving slowly and i was convinced was from the front. I had replaced the sway bar bushings front and rear and although the noise was less pronounced it was still there.

This solution of ensuring the proper torque on the various bolts has done the trick. I was very close to pulling the trigger and buying new drop links all around but now i can put that off until they do start to fail.

Again, thank you.