No start...timing good...leak test bad...need help

[flaps10]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Assuming the cam timing is where it is supposed to be, take a look at your crank position sensor, they can cause an intermittent non coding no start condition where the engine just spins over.

I was going to suggest the same thing. I would think an OBD2 reader might uncover that, but if you have the engine laying on the ground that is out.

I wonder if there is a way to bench test the sensor. Perhaps a resistance check with a multimeter while you whiz a piece of metal past the end. It's just a Hall sensor isn't it?

If the engine were in the car you could just swap it with a known good one, but again you'll have to reassemble the whole beast before that is an option.

Either way I'm tuned in for the fix. Best wishes to the OP.

edit: just re read JFP's post about it not pulling a code. That puts us back at bench testing or replacing with a known good sensor.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by flaps10

I was going to suggest the same thing. I would think an OBD2 reader might uncover that, but if you have the engine laying on the ground that is out.

I wonder if there is a way to bench test the sensor. Perhaps a resistance check with a multimeter while you whiz a piece of metal past the end. It's just a Hall sensor isn't it?

If the engine were in the car you could just swap it with a known good one, but again you'll have to reassemble the whole beast before that is an option.

Either way I'm tuned in for the fix. Best wishes to the OP.

edit: just re read JFP's post about it not pulling a code. That puts us back at bench testing or replacing with a known good sensor.

The correct way to test a CPS is with an oscilloscope trace to show the pulse generation as the shutter teeth pass the sensor (which is a Hall Effect sensor).



The problem with diagnosing the CPS is that it can fail without throwing a code as the DME just thinks the engine is not turning and shuts off the fuel and ignition. Bench testing flakey units with a multimeter can be misleading; they can look fine, but still not deliver the pulse width required for the car to run properly. They are also heat sensitive, working when cold but failing when hot.