Originally Posted by 911monty (Post 454662)

If you can, while using jacks under the suspension is certainly better than tightening with wheels off the ground, having your wheels on and resting level on ground, ramps or lift is ideal. Reason being different wheel widths and offsets will have an effect on the leverage placed on the wheel bearing and suspension. While minor compared to being off the ground, for PERFECTION have wheels on. This will keep your alignment much longer due to less suspension settling.

PS: Don't even get me started on how bad wheel spacers are for your wheel bearings!!!

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 454680)

What about the nose being angle down? Should I also get the front wheels level to the rear wheels?

Originally Posted by 911monty (Post 454474)

The car needs to be sitting on all 4 wheels. When you tighten the bolt thru the bushing, the bushing center shaft is held in that position by the bracket. Control arm movement up and down is enabled by the bushing rubber torquing/stretching around that center shaft. When you load the cars suspension before tightening, the rubber bushing is in a neutral/unloaded position. It can then stretch equally in both directions as the suspension compresses or rebounds. If you tighten without loading the suspension then once the car is on the ground the rubber bushing must stretch as the arm is compressed upward. This has the bushing loaded 100% of the time. When you hit a bump and the suspension compresses, the bushing must stretch even further than designed. The only time the bushing is relaxed is when the car leaves the pavement and is flying. Hope This makes sense.

Originally Posted by 911monty (Post 454693)

Kram; Level is best if possible. But as EJ-Fresno noticed the jacks will certainly be better!

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour (Post 454801)

Thanks so much for this explanation. It makes a lot of sense to me and may be the reason some of my control arms have worn out prematurely. They were not tightened under load.

Originally Posted by Deserion (Post 452163)

And here I thought it was the clamshell making that racket at low-speed on rough surfaces. :o

Originally Posted by Pdwight (Post 454953)

Clamshell ???

Originally Posted by WillH (Post 456253)

After a ride on some more crappy asphalt I've realized that the front are bad now that I can here it with the rear being quiet. Jacked up the front passenger side and placed some wood under the tire in a neutral position then banged around with a rubber mallet. Droplinks are quiet. The front trailing link is the noisy.
I believe I read that the 987 front trailing links are a no-go. Any upgraded part numbers? If not then I'm off to order 996-341-043-06

Originally Posted by EJ-Fresno (Post 456266)

OK, found a video how to replace them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=899_OjGjBMg

Question is: do you have to load the front suspension when you tighten them, like for the rear control arms?

Originally Posted by Smallblock454 (Post 456208)

Hi,

for those located outside the US or not willing to buy from Pelican.

Porsche 987 part number: 98733104302 and 98733104303
is equal to TRW JTC1316, EAN number 3322937921805

Porsche 986 part number: 98633104307, 98633104306, 98633104305, 98633104304
is equal to TRW JTC1186, EAN Number 3322937753246

The 987 part seems to be a little cheaper than the 986 TRW part. Around 85 euro each.

Regards from germany
Markus