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Old 05-14-2014, 07:54 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by healthservices View Post


If I remember correctly the middle one was a new AOS I replaced because I thought it was faulty. I should cut that one open to see if the membrane is damaged. Is there a way to apply vacuum to a AOS to check its integrity off of the motor?
not sure, but it seems that if there is oil build-up on the intake side of the AOS, that would be an indication.

so, did replacing it solve your issues, and what were your issues.

mine was basically heavy exhaust smoke on high revs under load and on startup after a heavy load incident, eventually some fouled plugs causing #5 and #6 cylinders to misfire.
I'll report back next week after I have replaced the AOS and plugs and tested.

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Old 05-14-2014, 09:27 PM   #42
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Replacing the AOS a second time did not help, my issues was assume to be the oil pump as the AOS still was puking out oil after replacement and with the intake hose disconnected the oil was still forcing its way pass the AOS out the hose and into a rag. For me swapping the scavenge pumps drastically reduce oil smoke. I replace the scavenge pump and that was that. I no longer have that car.

On your car, you should:

1. pull the throttle body and joint, clean the intake of oil with a rag or towel, reassemble but,
2. Put a plug in the intake where the AOS hose would go...
3. Put the open end of the AOS hose into a rag and into a catch can. Bring a fire extinguisher just in case. but nothing will happen
4. Run the car hard three times or until a cloud of smoke starts. no need to run car more than three hard times.
5. pull the engine cover, if...


If no smoke was made during the test, see if the AOS puked oil into the rag or catch can. If it did the AOS is bad again, oil is forcing its way thru the AOS, or you have bad enough blowby that is causing the oil to force its way out. Intake should be clean of oil since it did not smoke.


If it did smoke smoked during the test, make sure the oil did not puke out of the AOS tube into the rag and onto the exhaust. If it did not puke oil and there was a oil cloud, then the oil is from the rings or the valve stem seals

Jake should be able to correct me about my assumptions from these outcomes or give more input..

Last edited by healthservices; 05-14-2014 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:23 AM   #43
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Replacing the AOS a second time did not help, my issues was assume to be the oil pump as the AOS still was puking out oil after replacement and with the intake hose disconnected the oil was still forcing its way pass the AOS out the hose and into a rag. For me swapping the scavenge pumps drastically reduce oil smoke. I replace the scavenge pump and that was that. I no longer have that car.

On your car, you should:

1. pull the throttle body and joint, clean the intake of oil with a rag or towel, reassemble but,
2. Put a plug in the intake where the AOS hose would go...
3. Put the open end of the AOS hose into a rag and into a catch can. Bring a fire extinguisher just in case. but nothing will happen
4. Run the car hard three times or until a cloud of smoke starts. no need to run car more than three hard times.
5. pull the engine cover, if...


If no smoke was made during the test, see if the AOS puked oil into the rag or catch can. If it did the AOS is bad again, oil is forcing its way thru the AOS, or you have bad enough blowby that is causing the oil to force its way out. Intake should be clean of oil since it did not smoke.


If it did smoke smoked during the test, make sure the oil did not puke out of the AOS tube into the rag and onto the exhaust. If it did not puke oil and there was a oil cloud, then the oil is from the rings or the valve stem seals

Jake should be able to correct me about my assumptions from these outcomes or give more input..
Thanks, I will do that. can't wait to see how it runs with all 6 cylinders firing correctly.

Last edited by kiyakubuke; 05-15-2014 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:26 AM   #44
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side note

On a side note: I ordered the parts from Pelican yesterday afternoon. paid $23 for fast shipping (not a bad price) and, according to Fedex, they are on a truck headed to my house now. That is some good service there. Amazon could take some lessons from Pelican. even with a "prime" account, it takes them 3 days to get me anything and I can drive to their warehouse in 15 minutes.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:31 AM   #45
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Adventures in car repair

Installed the new AOS on Saturday. not complicated but pretty difficult due to location and the difficult accessing the bolts, hoses etc.. started it up and it ran good. drove it around a bit and it progressively got worse, no smoke but rough and/or high idle. started throwing a code P0507. service mode again and looked for a vacuum leak. finally tracked it down to the oil filler tube. apparently I had broken it while fighting with the AOS, it had worked its way loose after a little driving. after much cursing and the purchase of some cable hose clamp pliers, I got both sides off, fixed the break and put it back on.
Started the car up and it smoked, a lot, worse than it ever had. saw some other post about replacing the AOS and it smoking for a bit afterwards so I was able to sleep. this morning it smoke a little but had cleared by the time I got to work. seems to be sorted out now (fingers crossed).


fixed the hose with "plastic weld" epoxy, then wrapped that with some fiber fix. by far the strongest part of the hose now

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Old 05-27-2014, 05:15 AM   #46
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So I fitted another new AOS yesterday. Not had a chance to try it out yet though.

Points to ponder, AOS's are a LOT easier to change out the second time once you know how to do it! About an hour.

I cut the old one up to see what's inside and to try and understand how it works.

First off I cut round the top circular section to reveal the diaphragm, it was perfect with no holes. Then I cut straight through the bottom of the main body to see what was in the separator vessel. Not much is the answer, a baffle at the top mainly.

I assume that air is effectively sucked through the AOS from the top connector using the vacuum pressure of the inlet. The air is sucked in from the side connector and the bellows connector. Whatever is picked up in those gets mixed in the side chamber before being sucked into the top of the separator vessel section, hitting the baffle on the way in to allow oil to drip down, and whatever is left to be sucked into the top the AOS where the diaphragm is.

I'm confused a little by the diaphragm. It is spring loaded and I assume that the higher the vacuum (e.g. revs) the more the diaphragm gets pulled against the springs. This seem to be pulling a plunger in the center of the diaphragm towards sealing off the supply to the pipe applying the vacuum pressure. I suppose it could be a rudimentary pressure/vacuum regulator - the higher the vacuum, the smaller the gap for the vacuum to be applied and hence less vacuum pressure.

So for AOSs where the diaphragm has holes I can see that it may not be able to regulate the suction effect and oil mist could be sucked passed the plunger if it's not fully engaged when it should be.

But not sure how it's doing what it does on mine unless the mechanism is jamming somewhere and not allowing the plunger to deploy to it's fullest extent. Then at high revs / high vacuum pressure it just sucks everything out the separator vessel before it's had time to drip back down into the engine.

Anyways, let's see how it goes the next time I get a chance to give it some, I'm not expecting miracles!

On a more positive note, I did get my air con sorted, two new condensors - but all that's highlighted is that one of my fans is not working at low speed. Replacement fan and resistor on order to fix that!

I do wish people would fix things on their cars as they go along rather than just passing them all on to the next mug to sort out, e.g. me!
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:47 AM   #47
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So I fitted another new AOS yesterday. Not had a chance to try it out yet though.

Points to ponder, AOS's are a LOT easier to change out the second time once you know how to do it! About an hour.

I cut the old one up to see what's inside and to try and understand how it works.

First off I cut round the top circular section to reveal the diaphragm, it was perfect with no holes. Then I cut straight through the bottom of the main body to see what was in the separator vessel. Not much is the answer, a baffle at the top mainly.

I assume that air is effectively sucked through the AOS from the top connector using the vacuum pressure of the inlet. The air is sucked in from the side connector and the bellows connector. Whatever is picked up in those gets mixed in the side chamber before being sucked into the top of the separator vessel section, hitting the baffle on the way in to allow oil to drip down, and whatever is left to be sucked into the top the AOS where the diaphragm is.

I'm confused a little by the diaphragm. It is spring loaded and I assume that the higher the vacuum (e.g. revs) the more the diaphragm gets pulled against the springs. This seem to be pulling a plunger in the center of the diaphragm towards sealing off the supply to the pipe applying the vacuum pressure. I suppose it could be a rudimentary pressure/vacuum regulator - the higher the vacuum, the smaller the gap for the vacuum to be applied and hence less vacuum pressure.

So for AOSs where the diaphragm has holes I can see that it may not be able to regulate the suction effect and oil mist could be sucked passed the plunger if it's not fully engaged when it should be.

But not sure how it's doing what it does on mine unless the mechanism is jamming somewhere and not allowing the plunger to deploy to it's fullest extent. Then at high revs / high vacuum pressure it just sucks everything out the separator vessel before it's had time to drip back down into the engine.

Anyways, let's see how it goes the next time I get a chance to give it some, I'm not expecting miracles!

On a more positive note, I did get my air con sorted, two new condensors - but all that's highlighted is that one of my fans is not working at low speed. Replacement fan and resistor on order to fix that!

I do wish people would fix things on their cars as they go along rather than just passing them all on to the next mug to sort out, e.g. me!

my observations on the AOS are similar. one theory I have is that the spring gets worn out over time and doesn't "spring" properly anymore. when mine went out it seem to get progressively worse rather than just "good one moment, broken the next"
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:14 PM   #48
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As an update...

So, I persevere with the Boxster. I spent £600 getting the aircon sorted, a new hood with glass window and a new key switch. Car's looking good and driving great.

So about 4 weeks ago I used it for work 3 days in row. Then got a check oil level warning.

I checked the oil and noticed it was about a litre down, strange, no great sign of any oil loss or oil burning off. I then checked my water level. Oh oh, not good, nothing but emulsified oil in sight. So I drained out the coolant and reckon 25% of the 15 litres or so I extracted is enulsified oil. At least I know where my oil has gone. :laugh:

So, a heat exchanger or cracked cylinder head. The heat exchanger is only a year old so someone has been this route before and dumped the car as a PX. I'm the lucky mug that then picked it up.

The car has been into the garage today , they've stripped out the engine and confirmed that CH 4-6 is fecked and has been allowing oil into coolant and most probably over pressuring the cam covers causing the AOS issues I started this thread about.

A big decision to strip out the engine, it's a very fine line between whether to scrap the car or repair it as the cost of the engine work will likely be about £2.5K using a second hand replacement head. Only the fact that I've invested so much time and money into making the rest of the car so good persuaded me to go ahead and repair.

Bloody Boxster!!! Can;t wait to get it back for what's left of the summer though!

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