Best Induction System for 'S'
 

Can someone give me some guidance with induction systems, which is the best looked at true flow and EVO, baring in mind that I live in a hot climate - not sure if a cone type induction kit is the right choice, although the EVO sytem does have a enclosed fresh air box. Also worried it might mess up the MAF sensor. (2001 'S')

At this point I would have to say the best one is the OEM one. What are you trying to achieve by changing out oem system? You should weigh the pros and cons.

EVO Induction Pros
1. More induction sound.
2. Ummmm......


EVO Induction Cons
1. Little or no Hp gain.
2. Possible MAF foulups and CEL's
3. Possibly void warranty
4. Total pain in the ass to install.

You can achieve your goal of more induction sound by desnorkling plus as you mentioned the EVO cone induction isn't a 100% cold air induction system like the OEM system. In that respect, you are taking a step back by switching to the EVO. The EVO has a "heat shield" which may help some, but I really doubt it is a completely sealed system like the OEM induction.

Forget the Evo... I installed it, dynoed it and junked it. I still have the complete set around if you want it. Haven't had time to put it up on Ebay...

I experienced bhp/torque loss all the way through to about 6,000rpm+. Thereafter, there's a slight gain of about 2-3bhp. I posted this sometime back. Do a search under my nick and you'll find it. The ONLY upside is the increased induction sound when you floor it... I still miss it till today. You'll suffer intake temp increase as well as the heat shield supplied by Evo is nowhere near as effective as the stock air box. I did a before/after temp measurement by putting a temp sensor in place and this was also documented in my writeout. And where you're living is an oven during summer and you'll want to keep that temp down as much as possible. Remember the general guideline of every 10 degrees increase in intake temp is about 1% loss in bhp.

It's a real PITA to fit the original airbox back but I did it anyway. Paid my mechanic a day's labour to get the thing back in place. The best compromise is to use the original airbox AND piping with a BMC filter. Believe it or not, the stock piping has a air reservoir that makes the car more drivable. Something about it keeping a reserve of air for use when the air in the piping runs out. A friend of mine who's into tuning cars for competition told me that. And he's doing pretty well in the local circuit for me to put some trust into his words....

Evo has another kit that replaces the piping but keeps the stock air-box. No point also in my opinion.... But I've read a few posts lately praising the gains of the Evo's kit... not sure how they quantified the gains but for me, real dyno figures speaks more.

Same goes for the GIAC flash program for our cars. I spent $200 on courier to send my ECU to Evo to get it flashed. Dynoed the car, bhp/torque loss so I send it for another $200 back to them to get it reverted back to stock. Again, I've read positive comments on the GIAC programs so I can only put it down to the slight difference in my car and the cars in the US.

Did you modify the exhaust when you installed the EVO/GIAC together? Like headers or removing the 2nd cats?

I am not an expert...however, I keep saying the same thing: Porsche has put millions into developing this car...do we really think we are going to improve this car through aerodynamic, engine or suspension changes? My vote is no...in my humble opinion of course!

Hi,

I've said it many times. Mildly Modding a Boxster Engine for performance is mostly a waste of time. The expense is tremendous and the gains (if any) are minimal at best, and usually only on the extreme end of the Tach and usually at the sacrifice of some usable power in the mid-ranges. But, there is a HUGE Marketing Effort by Aftermarket Suppliers to convince you otherwise. Almost ALL gains are Placebic.

Frankly, it's all a lot of Automotive Jewelry. The very best mods without Forced Induction yield maybe a 10% increase (this is really generous, and will still leave your Car feeling anemic compared to many others) and will cost you between $3500 and $5000, not a very good Trade.

There are no quick fixes in the Boxster M96 Engine. Either you go to full Forced Induction (several kits out there, each with it's own drawbacks), or you pursue the time-honored method of increasing the Bore/Stroke, Increase Valve Size and Lift (Headwork, new Valves/Cam), increase Fuel and Air Delivery (intake/injectors), along with a new Box to control it all. I don't know of anyone who's taken this approach because the task is Gargantuan and far exceeds the effort and expense of simply dropping in a 996 Engine.

A much better way to go would be to improve the suspension and put the Car on a Diet, so the stock power has less Mass to push around.

IMHO, anyone dissatisfied with the Boxsters performance simply bought the Wrong Car. Whatever you do to a Boxster, something else out there will Eat it for Lunch. These guys need to step up to a 996/997, Vette, Viper, or the like.

All considered, the Best Induction System for your Car is the one it Already has...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Amen brother! I see the light...I see the light! Woohoo! I'm spent...

If you really want to move with ALACRITY and DISPATCH...buy a top fuel dragster. Just don't turn any corners. That very point is what everyone is forgetting...you won't beat them in the quarter mile, but you will smoke them like a trout (write that down) in the twisties. TWISTIES PEOPLE...TWISTIES! That is why you bought this car! Say it with me...TWISTIES...Tuh-wih-s-tees.

The boxster is not a ricer and does not respond to modding very well.

I think enough of us have broken our ax on that point, costing us countless dollars and pain.

:cheers:

I just installed an EVO kit and put a giant wing on the back....I included a picture.

Like a bat out of hell, no?

Good one!
:)

Imagine the trout you could smoke with that fire!

That was a great quote, Rail26 :D

Which, actually in a way is kind of nice--it keeps us from having to spend money on that sort of thing. :)

"Which, actually in a way is kind of nice--it keeps us from having to spend money on that sort of thing. "

Agreed!

Best bang for the buck after reading posts from legit posters on modding are:

1)B&M or equivelant shifter.
2)Desnorkel Mod for the sound (NO HP GAIN!) (FREE!)
3)Strut tower braces...I believe it was MNBoxster who said these make a huge difference!
4)Driving School...learn to drive the car correctly and you will be rewarded!

I would agree, these are all good stuff!

Before I did the Evo kit, I already had the Dansk manifold, sports cat and muffer installed. The works as far as exhaust systems are concerned :) Dyno tests revealed gains for the manifold and cats but slight loss on the muffler. But I left that on anyway since I kinda like the sound and the torque/bhp loss is not that much...

Desnorkeling??
 

Yeh, I just needed to hear it from some one else that it's probably pointless messing with the intake, although a K&N replacement panel filter might be a good idea to get rid of the paper filter, also how do I go about desnorkeling the intake, all I am looking for is a little more sound as I am a induction noise junkie - like everyone else come on admit it!!!. thanks for the info :)

Yes strut tower braces for front & rear. Thanks to MNBoxster and Rail, the boxs now can Tuh-wih-s-t better plus a good scratch on my hand from installing the rear :)

Forget the K&N! Why waste money on something that *may* harm your MAF?!?! The paper filter is all this car will ever need. To desnorkel, here is what I did: http://www.xclusivecar.com/Porsche_Boxster_S_DeSnorkel_Mod.htm

:cheers:

xclusivecar - Thanks for the de-snorkel site but "if" for some reason I want to install it back, it is difficult?

A strut brace question... I own a 2001 and though I enjoy like anyone else to take corners pretty hard at times I haven't taken my car to a track. Will I notice a big difference in everyday handling or is this mod mainly for the track? I notice that there are aluminum bars and carbon fiber bars on ebay. Which is a better bar to have strength/weight?

I second that,I just had to buy a new MAF due to a K & N air filter. The previous owner didn't change it out,or re-oil as often he should have(every 4000 miles) and I paid the price,$233 for MAF + $22 for Mahle Paper Filter. None-the-less K & N air filters are in all the other cars in my house with no problems at all. I dont think the sensors sensitivity works with aftermarket filters all that well,unless you change them often,very often.

The guy's that post on this forum know their stuff! I'd listen to them on this issue, you'll save time and money.


Based on the collective wisdom posted here I plan on the following upgrades:

BMC air element
Borla cat-back (for sound)
Strut braces front and rear (once I can figure-out who's selling the best ones....help!)


bob

Suspension
 

Sounds like the fellow forum members guided you in the right direction.

The largest difference I have notice is when I had my Voightland Coilovers installed with an alignment and Corner balance...HUGE difference. It's like I'm driving on rails, Plus my car is on 19x 8.5 F and 19x10 R. It's a handling machine!!!!!

I also did the following mods to my car:

1) De-snorkel (gives a nice intake sound)
2) exhaust (for sound)


Pics are in this thread:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/5076-krzs-2000-986-s-pics.html

KRZ

Hi,

You'll notice a big difference in day-to-day by adding the Strut Bars. In addition to the Car feeling much more Solid, you'll lose most (if not all) of the annoying creaks and rattles inherent in practically every convertible. You will also be able to corner better/faster.

For this application, I don't believe Alloy vs CF makes any difference. There are several out there and prices have dropped. Make sure to get a good one (mine are from Racing Dynamics) as they're better machined/aligned and this makes installation a little easier, not that it's hard - 10 min. @. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Do as MNBoxster has done with the strut braces and you'll be ready to go. He knows his stuff and tells it as it is.

As far as putting the snorkel back in...I haven't tried to do this...but imagine you would have to push pretty hard to get it to pop back in. When you go to remove your snorkel you will realize how tough it is to remove. Remember to wear gloves and pull...HARD!

BTW-I have driven without the snorkel for 2 winters now as my daily driver and wouldn't think of putting it back in. It really doesn't make much noise until you get on it...about 4000 rpm and up. THEN, it sounds GREEEEEEEAAAAAAATTTT! :cheers:

same topic on 6speed check it out.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42756

strut braces - front, back or both
 

After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve

Personally, I would do them both.

Let us know what you think!

:cheers:

Hi,

As Bruce says, do them both. Each helps tremendously, but the combined effect is greater than the Sum.

Installation is easy. Car on Level Ground.

Front: Remove Inspection Covers and Battery Cover. Loosen Battery Hold-down Mount (10mm) and move to front edge of Battery Tray to allow the CrossBrace to fit behind it (I also prefer to disconnect the Battery to eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting the Terminals if the Brace or tool contacts them - not truly necessary, but a precaution). Align Strut Tower Brace Mounts with 2 of the 3 (13mm) Nuts coming out of the Strut Tower. Loosen the appropriate Nuts (leave the 3rd one tight to avoid loosing Camber Setting). Extend CrossBrace so that it will allow the Mount Holes to align with the top of the 2 Studs on each side. Place Mounts onto Studs and replace Nuts, tightening to 26 ft. lbs. (No more of the Studs can snap). Extend CrossBrace fully and tighten LockNuts (17mm?) Tighten down Battery and replace Inspection Covers and Battery Cover.

Rear: Put Top in Service Position. Pull back Foam Insulation covering the Strut Towers. Extend CrossBrace to allow Mounts to align with Studs. Remove the appropriate 2 Nuts (13mm) from each side and place Mounts over Studs. Replace Nuts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. Extend CrossBrace so that Heim Joints can slip over Mounting Studs on the Brace Mounts (this can be a little tight), taking care not to pinch Convertible Top Cables. Tighten NyLock Nuts onto Strut Brace Mounts and tighten CrossBar Lock Nuts. Replace Top.

It should take you no longer than 20 min. per Brace, probably less. Good Luck...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

I Agree. The Boxster is made for the curves not the quarter mile. Not much you can do with these cars to increase HP. Even for my 3.2L 250 HP S. You can spend $3,800 for the complete Fabspeed exhaust system plus they want another $1,494 for their performance flash program and claim a 35 HP gain. I can't really use all the HP I have now without losing my license so spending $5,200 bucks for 35 more horse is probably unnecessary. I will do the secondaryCat bypasspipes and GHL exhaust for slight HP pickup but mostly for sound, the strut tower braces and lower Ernie bar for the lower rear suspension, and lighten up the car with some Recaro racing sport seats and lighter alloy wheels and that will do it for me.

For those who missed it I give you the "Ernie bar"

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar-2.html

:cheers:

$5200 huh? For less you can get a fantastic one-liter, and it'll smoke anything that can't run a sub-11 (and finding parking on it rocks!). AND it can turn, too!

-David