^ +1

Been watching both of your threads intently and the suspense is killing me! :(
It's a real cliffhanger :)

Engine comes out today after work to correct the valve timing. Likely back in tomorrow for another shot.

That is the firing order but you have to take into account the cam opening & closing specs. You would have to rig up a degree wheel to determine when max lift occurs.

Engine is back out.:)

+1!!!!!!!!!!

Rolled the engine to TDC and checked the valve timing on both sides. The timing tool goes in both sides perfectly. :o

That is a problem it should only go into one side. You should have to rotate the engine one hole revolution and pin the second time before it goes into the second side. At that point it will not seat in the first side

Cool!

Fix the timing. Pull the plugs, hook up jumper cables to starter, open throttle, remove spark plugs and do a compression test.... or as mention do a leak down

If they both go in at the same TDC timing point you need to retime 1 cam set One side. It should matter which, personally I'd do bank 1. This is a quick timing guide check with you assembly manual.
1. Pull scavenger pump
2. pull the large cam end cap
3. loosen the Intake cam clutch bolt (special tool required)
4. pull the chain tensioner bolt side 1-3
5. remove valve cover and cams (only one side intake and exhaust)
6. Move the timing wheel around until you can install pin into the 60 degree mark (U6). Careful about the cam chain not loosing contact from IMS sprocket. or dropping into block
7. install the cams with the timing tool. Use the manual to make sure the cams are oriented correctly
8. install cam caps and hardware.
9. Install exhaust chain sprocket let screws loose use book for correct position to the bolts holes and slots (screw holes full CCW in slots)
10 Install top chain guide
11 Install the side 1-3 chain tensioner
12 Move chain timing to TDC (Your only moving 60 degrees)
13 Tighten the Exhaust cam sprocket screws
14 Initial torque intake cam clutch bolt (Special tool) 37 FTLB
15 Remove special tool. Final tighten intake cam bolt turn 110 degrees.
16 Remove cam position tool
17 Remove TDC pin
18 Rotate engine 360 test TDC pin bank 4-6 cam tool should align only bank 4-6.
19 Rotate engine 360 test TDC pin bank 1-3 everything should align with tool Only bank 1-3
20 finish head assembly.

You have your answer.

Before going to far check leak down as you spin it around just to make sure you didn't hit and valves. Quick test and save you some work in case you did.

It won't be in proper time but there should be a point where each cyl is fully closed.

If all is good, then retine properly

Mike

Just had the opportunity to complete retiming tonight. Rolled it and locked it several times at TDC, timing checked out perfectly both sides each time over the course of the multiple rolls. Pulled the 1-3 head to look for contact, and there was nothing there so I figure the 4-6 head is ok. Will do a leakdown anyway just to satisfy my OCD. On the plus side I've got a pretty good feel for the torque sequence and values for the head and valve cover.

leak check was 5 to 10% per cylinder, no air escaping through the valves. Fired up and the initial idle will fall off until it dies for about the first 30 seconds of running, then it cleans up, but the idle is never strong. The zinging noise I heard was the power stearing being low on pentosin. That's a break. So here is a video of it running:

00237 - YouTube

At the end you can hear the idle hunt and peck between about 750 and 950 RPM looking for a spot to roost. I noticed there is wind noise in the microphone.

On the windows, and the top. If I push the button for the top latch at the top center of the windshield, they go up. If I release it, they go down. The top has decided that it likes the service position and refuses to move at all. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Needs a handover and throttle adaptation.

Thank you Jake, I value your experience and appreciate your advice. I'm hoping the handover and throttle adaptation is something the car will figure out itself as the computer learns who it is again. I figured out the top and the windows, It's a control I have not had use for yet, the parking brake.:o

If the engine had stored fuel trim from a failing component before, a handover is required to clear it up, because the car doesn't know the engine has been repaired.

To adapt the throttle turn the key on for 1 minute, off for one minute and do that a couple of times, then fire it up and turn on every consumer you can, A/C, rear defogger, all the lights and etc and let it idle.

Check for vacuum leaks and watch the fuel trim.

Thanks for the information Jake. I've followed your advice and have run the car from cold to operating temperaure several times now. It has gone from stumbling and stalling to confident smooth running. the Idle has settled to a rock steady 800 rpm, and there was an intermittant miss, perhaps a sticky fuel injector, that seems completely resolved. The engine now idles confidently, runs smoothly, and revs freely. It's insured and gets plates tomorrow.

Beers all around!

Great post. I wish I could do this.

You certainly can provided you have the time, the place and extra $ to fund your hobby, AND can strike a deal with your *very supportive* SO (my wife got a custom kitchen out of this). Not to mention a super helpful forum like this with professionals who are confident enough to help pipsqueaks like me with "problems" they work with day in day out and never even think about!

On the topic of *very supportive* SO, to quote, "If this starter engine of yours ever blows up, get a 911 motor". I gotta love her!

It doesn't get much better then that.

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