I had the same problem with fitment on my stock muffler. The U-pipe did not connect with the TS pipes. I used all the strength I had to force it in place. I had to loosen the catback exhaust as well to move it back an inch. The problem I have now is an exhaust leak. The TS mid pipe end diameters were much smaller than the factory OEM U-pipe. Not even the clamps are enough to close the gap.

Oops, I also had the small pipe diameter issue. Sorry, I had forgotten to mention that in the post. This was another reason the flex pipe seems to work well. Guess time will tell but it's pretty solid. I'm also thinking about adding a small bracket between the muffler and cross member just to assure the muffler doesn't move around on rougher than normal roads. :)

I'm not sure I follow what you are talking about for a bracket.

Remember that the muffler is mounted to the gearbox and engine as one unit with the rubber damper on the top side of the muffler.

What I am saying is the muffler and gearbox move as one unit you don't want to place a bracket from the muffler to a ridged cross-member. You will break something and have a lot of vibration.

I do like the way the flex pipes came out I did more forcing on mine then I was happy about.

Burning smell went away after about 200 miles. At first you would think the car was going to catch fire it smelled so bad.

Thanks Dagdisco03, I copy. Very good point. The bracket I'm thinking of making would have a rubber section in the middle that would absorb small impacts. I understand what you are saying. There is movement from the engine/trans so locking it ridged to the cross member isn't a good idea. Sorry I didn't really expand on it in the original post. Glad you're keeping me honest. Pic attached is a small rubber shock absorber. I have a couple of these I was considering using. But now that I think about it... It's prob overkill. Maybe I should just run with it and see how it does. If I hear thumping I'll consider a custom shock bracket then. Thanks :)

I followed this thread 'cause I have the Fabspeed pipes. I know they are way more expensive but the installation took maybe 30 - 40 minutes with no issues whatsoever. Just sayin'

I installed Top Speed's Cat Delete this weekend and IT IS butt dyno APPROVED! I love 'em! They give you a low growl at idle and seem to make the exhaust less restrictive. Can't wait to get the Full Cat Back Exhaust system now!

I understand a few members got sent TWO OF THE SAME SIDE, here's is the definitive way to tell the difference (just in case it happens again)…

This pic shows all the parts the Top Speed Cat Delets come with (the exhaust tubes are facing the wrong side - see how easy it is to do).
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349190886.jpg

When you have the CORRECT PIPES…they will look like this when you rotate ONE OF THEM 180 degrees. Notice that the 3-bolt flanges DO NOT line up! That is how you know you have 2 DIFFERENT PIPES and they ARE CORRECT.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349190960.jpg

Here is a close up shot of the CORRECT PIPES with ONE ROTATED:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349191080.jpg

And here is 30 pounds of garbage….(but I'll sell them to pay for Cat Deletes - if anyone needs them)
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349191165.jpg

Make sure you do a "dry fitting". Kenny rightly advised me to loosen the U-Bolts near the back muffler (hit them with PB Blaster FIRST).

Lightly connect the 3-bolt flange, loosen, and then work on getting the back to fit. It was a little off at the muffler but once worked in to place, it bolts up without a problem.

You know how when you blow your nose when you have a cold? For the first minute afterwards you can breathe….that is how my car seems to feel now, "uncongested".
Seems like my Box got rid of the "cold" and CAN BREATHE AGAIN!

My car is 30 lbs. lighter and more responsive at higher RPMs!

<a href="http://imgur.com/HZvhd"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/HZvhdl.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" alt="" /></a>


<a href="http://imgur.com/PWGF0"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/PWGF0l.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" alt="" /></a>

Not so happy....
 

Glad your fit worked out well Kenny.... This thread is sort of turning into a catch all for these pipes. Hopefully that is ok with everyone. So, after all of the fitting and communications on these pipes I'm not so thrilled with the outcome. I just took the box for a run and at idle and low rpm is sounds good So, I put my foot in it a bit... Not sure what I was expecting but it sounds like a pumped up 4 banger. Loud, and not even a pleasant loud, just loud! I'm guessing it's the Pedro mod on my exhaust so I'm going to plug those 1" pipes and see how it sounds. The Pedro mod has its place with a stock setup just not with these pipes installed. Anyone else care to comment on their overall impression of the exhaust note's of these pipes? :(

it is after all just a straight pipe. I would suspect that you would get the same "sound" with secondary pipes from other mfgs.

All mid pipes will do this- it is just a hollow metal tube. I am almost at a loss of words loud when you complain of it being loud when you put your foot on pedal! I am not trying to sound harsh but perhaps you should drive a hybrid if you want something not loud.

Thanks Kenny for the hybrid suggestion. I'm not quite at that point as yet. Maybe next year ;). Maybe 'loud' was the wrong word. Maybe I should have said 'noisy'. Not a nice noisy more like just a blowing noise. I've had plenty of V8's with headers and nice exhaust so no I'm not hybrid ready. Yes, this is a straight pipe situation for the 1" muffler bypass but the muffler should be picking up most of it. It just wasn't want I expected. So that's what I shared. I'm after a subtle sports car sound, which is prob something I won't get with the boxster flat six. But, I'm learning here. this is my first Porsche. I posted my thoughts and experience only because this topic is open and the pipes everyone wanted are now available. I shared my install hoping someone with similar fitment issues would benefit from it. So in the same light I shared my disappointment as well. but, you learn and move on. That's a good thing. Sorry if my post offends anyone but it was just that, a post expressing an experience. I'll think twice next time and stick to solid issues. Cheers

Really? What did you drive before? 6cyl engines have about the sweetest song this side of a V12. The straight and flat 6's are the best of the breed. With the flat having the most unique engine notes of all IMNSHO... If you are not happy with sound of your flat 6, it is a failure to mod properly or a failure of personal taste. Even a box stock Boxster has a pleasing if not understated exhaust note. I am a fan of Pedro, but not his exhaust mod. It seems pointless and is essentially a self inflicted exhaust leak. I would expect it in the world of fart can Hondas, but not on a Porsche (I know you bought it that way). Keep the bypass pipes and try fitting a standard 986 exhaust or attempt to plug the "leaks" in yours. I think you'll like that much better.

Thanks Shasdrach74, I think you're right on. I'm sure it's the Pedro Mod. I'll pull the muffler this weekend and plug the 1" pipes. I agree, this little six can sound great. Just have to get the right combo. Thanks again, :cheers:

Plugging will do the trick. It will sound very nice, fo sho.....

I drilled my exhaust a little right where the tailpipe is, made a nice and subtle difference as well. Search for the thread called "10HP gain" or something.

I did the Crios mod a.k.a drilling a ¾" hole in through the back of the muffler and with the Top Speed Cat Deletes - it sounds G-r-r-reat! Not too loud! Is there such a thing? Harleys and other "road furniture" go around without being muffled but IF a car or sportbike tries that it's too loud? O.K. maybe that is a bit too much…but short of that, as long as there is performance to be gained!!!

Now this has me thinking about headers and a cat back systems so my box can GROWL on the PROWL…as we are hunting down F-150s!

Still waiting on my replacement test pipes to come in (they did ship ASAP when I called to let them know there was a mixup on the packaged order).

I did want to say that John (Che) was super cool about it and let me keep the gaskets from the old set free of charge so I could swap the pipes around in the future without getting an exhaust leak from reused gaskets.

Still planning to do 3.8 swap, which is sitting in the garage, but will be taking a 700 mile RT with the 3.2 this weekend, so I'd like to swap in the headers and midpipes just to try them out since I have the extra gaskets. Hopefully the exhaust manifolds will come off easily -- I know they were removed 25k miles ago, so they should.

Looking forward to doing the job tomorrow.

black box...
If you are planning to fit John's (Che) headers, here's a tip which I learnt when I fitted mine last year. Before installing the headers, slightly enlarge the bolt holes as the originals line up with the head OK but I found that it left no room for slight adjustment to fit the bolts. One header was good, but the other required the slight movement to fit.
Installing the Top Speed headers & cat delete pipes coupled to the original Porsche S muffler certainly sounds good without the dreaded 3000 rpm drone. But here in Australia we don't have the primary cats in the headers (ROW specs) so it may be a different story your side of the ditch....

Steve - are you running without cats at all? I have been for the last couple of weeks whilst I was waiting for some 200cell cats to arrive to install in my bypass pipes.

Seems when I ordered my bypass pipes, I didn't get those slip in reducer parts so had to make my own. As a result, there are some small leaks adding to the already loud noise. Looking forward to this weekend when the cats will be installed and the leaks fixed!

Sam

Yes - running without cats at the moment - I was taking the car to a Porsche hill climb event in a couple of weeks ago but my wife broke her hand so new I can't go so I will probably put the cats back to be legal.
Shame really as the sound over 4,000 rpm is intoxicating........

Blowing noise update
 

For anyone interested that's been following this thread. I plugged the Pedro mod exhaust tubes with super results. Now the TS bypass pipes are doing their job. Sound is nice and crisp without that straight pipe blow. Running the car up to about 4k makes a very sweet purr that a sports car should. Thanks Andy and Shadrach, you guys were right on. :cheers:

Glad it worked out! Incidently, what method did you employ for blocking tubes?

If you put on headers….are you still going to use those cats?

Don't most all aftermarket headers employ an O2 sensor fix that takes the sensor "out of the exhaust stream" in other words, doesn't it require an O2 sensor extension adapter?

And do these adapters throw a CEL? I was told they would not but I want the headers, not the CEL. I don't care about passing inspection - since they do not check it in my county. Will it work? Has someone done it here? Also, will it affect the computer by dumping more gas or leaning it out because of the reading the O2 sensors are now getting? Someone who has headers, can you ring in?

Shadrach, I wanted to be able to undo the mod if needed. I built two plugs out of copper pipe and caps. Spun them down on the lathe to fit the holes and then used pop rivets to hold them in place (although they did fit pretty tight). I haven't as yet but will shoot them with a little black header paint and they won't been seen. Pic attached isn't great but shows the caps.

Homeboy, I'm running stock exhaust manifold. Headers may come later. I have a 2000 so the post cats do not have O2 bungs. With the TS pipes added the car does breathe much better. Throttle response is really nice. So far there have been no codes.

The workmanship looks nice!

However, I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion. I'm not sure what Pedro's pipes are made of, but it's likely to be on the anodic side of copper. Steam on those early morning start ups will make a nice if not slightly acidic electrolyte...

I agree, copper doesn't play well with some metals. The straight pipe tubes appear to be stainless. They were difficult to drill into. The actual plan here is to get an exhaust I'm happy with. Using the bypass pipe plugs and stock muffler is more of an exercise toward this goal. I just had so much blow by with the straight pipe mod and the bypass pipes it wasn't funny. This copper plug mods appears to be working so I'll likely fab some steel plugs in the near future. Copper was easy to work with so I figured I'd paint em black and run with them awhile. I've also been playing with a Stebro sport exhaust but since my car is a daily driver I didn't like the drone. So I removed the Stebro. I did put on dead pipes to try and overcome the drone but I don't think they're long or wide enough. So I'll either mod it again or sell it. Still on the fence on that one. Thanks for your input. I do agree. :cheers:

Very nice photos...thanks for sharing your installation process with us! Where did you buy those flex pipes? I may need a pair too for my upcoming installation.

Steve,

I have 2 sets of TS test pipes at home waiting to be installed. The second set is slightly different from the first. I hope to install this weekend. I am hoping that I can make some combination of what I have work properly. I will post pics this weekend and send the unused pipes back to Che.

Are these test pipes will pass EMISION TEST (smog test)? does it create CEL? Does it sound better or it needs the whole catback exhaust? I just want to make sure I don't encounter minor erritating issues when I purchase and install it.

Hi Shad,

Make sure the ones you put in look like this when you lay them out BEFORE installation. (they are laid out backwards in the photo FYI)http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1354801357.jpg

You should be able to do this with ONE SIDE to ensure you have the correct bends…
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1354801449.jpg

See how the FLANGE IS DIFFERENT? That IS PROOF POSITIVE you have the CORRECT PAIRS.

Good luck with the install. The best way to not have a problem with fitment is to mount loosely and then, once everything is "in the air" torque it down good and tight. Drive it long enough to warm up and then re-check tightness.

There will be some added sound and low end torque increase but your car will definutely 'breathe easier'. So will you!

Enjoy!

Hey Homie,

I definitely have 2 sets of left and right pipes. The Flanges are oriented correctly, but the bends vary somewhat from pipe to pipe...

The emissions issue will depend on how it is tested. If it's a simple OBD plug in test, than passing should be no sweat. If the emissions testing is done with a sniffer, then passing will depend upon state standards. I don't know how much work the secondary catalyst is actually doing, but I would expect to see some increase of unburned hydrocarbons (I doubt it's a significant increase) as a result of removing the secondary cat.

Mid pipes should not cause a CEL as the secondary cats they replace are unmetered.

WRT fitment issues, I would not expect any aftermarket part to fit perfectly without some degree of fettling. Sometimes things fit perfectly, sometimes not so much...

chad,

thanks.

No CELs here and I have been running with the TS Bypass pipes for a few months and several thousand miles now. The secondary cats just seemed to be necessary in CA. I have not noticed any difference….except in PERFORMANCE from NOT HAVING them STRANGLE MY EXHAUST! The Cat Backs make the system IMHO.

The fitment was a little struggle, long since forgotten. "Fettling" would be a good word to describe it. However, if you have seen muffler shops install pipes they move 'em around quite a bit!

I installed my bypass pipes yesterday. The good news is that I was able to get them installed, but it required loosening all of the exhaust joints between the muffler and the bypass pipes. The bad news is that the bends are not the exact proper angles for my stock exhaust. I do not like the amount of stress on the system to "make" it fit. I really had to manhandle the muffler pipes to get the slip joints in place and that was with the flange bolts completely loose. The gaps at the flange befor tightening were big! Further more, I have a slight leak that is very perceptible at idle. This gives it a bit of a "fart can" civic sound which I dislike. In terms of power, it's hard to tell. It's been pouring here so I can't really get my foot in it without breaking the ass end loose. I will report more on it this week as I decide whether to keep them or take them off...

What is the best place to buy these mid pipes?
 

I have a m2 headers and exhaust, planning to install them this weekend. Looking to buy the midpipes for the whole exhaust installation.

Where should I purchase them? How much should I expect to pay?

Any points on my upcoming installation?

thanks

BTEMY,

If you have existing aftermarket exhaust pieces, I think you should purchase all additional parts form the same vendor if possible. It's hard enough to ensure a good fit without throwing multiple manufacturers into the mix.

First, spray penetrating lubricant on all fasteners the night before. PB Blaster will work, but it's at the bottom of the quality spectrum of penetrating oils though a bit better than WD40. I use Mouse Milk or Kroil, which are both very high quality aviation grade products that out perform the other stuff on the market by a large margin. A 1 to 1 mix of ATF and Acetone is about as good a penetrant as anything.

As far as disassembly, I would suggest separating all "slip joints" (between midpipe and muffler) and thoroughly cleaning them with a brass brush (a brass wire wheel on a drill is the way to go). Make sure you have some high temp anti-seize on hand and coat the mating surfaces of the slip joints generously.

If you do the above, it will make articulating the slip joints much easier and help to ensure that everything can move as you position the exhaust.

Fit everything loosely and the start tightening at the parting flange where the header meets the mid-pipe and move aft doing your best to make sure that the pipes are not binding (some of the connections may be slightly stressed, but try to keep it to a minimum).

Good luck!

top speed bypass pipes
 

Just finished the install on otherwise stock exhaust. I had the muffler out already so I used 80 grit sandpaper to sand all joints smooth. Assembled complete, without tightening and was surprised when it all came together- the pipes weren't bent perfectly but eventually they fit. Snugged everything evenly all round until tight. There's a very slight leak on either side due to the slots cut into each bypass pipe and the failure of the supplied clamps to cover them completely but I can't hear any noise from them.
After 3 days of driving, the results are significant. The sound is deeper and slightly louder-perfect for me! For the little money spent, I feel very happy with the outcome. Time will tell if the poor fit causes any damage- I don't expect it too though. :D

Try these clamps. They will seal that leak and slightly improve the sound:cheers:

Here is where I found them:

EasySeal Exhaust Clamps: Torca EasySeal Clamps in Stainless Steel for Lap Joint Connections

Bought the clamps at O'Rilleys Autopatrs Store. $11 each.
Van914

so you don't even have to remove the piping to install the clamps- excellent

thanks guys