Single Row IMSB w/ double row (shallow) IMS cover (another squeal theory)
 

When I originally opened up my IMS cover (over 2 months ago!!!) and pulled the bearing, it was held in with a circlip, had no spacer, and was a SINGLE row bearing, however, the cover was a shallow, DUAL row type like the one in the pic below (photo is from LN, but it's the cover I have):
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346250146.jpg

From looking at it (pic below), it appears that someone must have previously been into my IMS before, from all of the sealant they left behind. Maybe they changed the dual row to a single?
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346250559.jpg

When I put the whole thing back together, I used the circlip and no spacers and reinstalled the new bearing just as the old one was in there with OEM stud. Once assembled it made a nasty squeaking noise under engine load (as in my thread of misery here).

I now have the IMS cover off (again!) and want to absolutely get this right. Does determination of single vs dual have to do with the cover, or with the shaft itself? If it's just the cover, then I will reinstall using pelican kit, spiroloc and dual row spacing. If not, then I will use single row spacing.

Thanks everyone for reading the facts carefully and giving your best advice. Although I'm still up the creek right now, I really appreciate everything so far. I wish it were possible to buy everyone a beer. I've got a week to get this done, because I have no free time after Sept 6. Can't wait to get my car back on the road!

black_box:
Why not give LN a call, they should know.
Man that doesn't look pretty...

x2 on calling LN, I'm sure they will answer your Q's.

That pic does not look good, also looks like someone broke out the JB weld...yikes! Hope you can get this figured out and get your Box back on the road.

Sounds like you inherited some FUBAR from the PO as having mixed parts is not a good thing.

+3 on calling Jake to work out the issues.

The crud in the bolt hole is just loctite residue, but I'll clean them out before final installation.

I called Jake a few weeks back, but was informed that since I hadn't bought anything from them, they would not provide any technical support. Tried calling LN too, but they just redirect to Flat 6 / Jake Raby. FYI, I bought the LN tooklit and retrofit kit from Pelican.

I would set the TDC and lock both sides.

back off all the tensioners, see if it re-aligns, or can be realigned.

check your oil filter for any particulates -- especially aluminum.
it's possible that the tube was rotating at an angle and grinding on the far side.

Only way to know for sure would be to pull the oil pump off and inspect the far side of the tube. I doubt that can be done with the engine in -- but I could be wrong.

I just don't remember enough about the clips to know which tube has what profile.
I thought there was a recess/lip that would not allow the bearing to travel any further
than it was supposed to longitudinally. In other words I don't think you could
put a dual in where a single was -- but not sure about vis-versa.

M

The crank is currently locked at TDC, with the left cam bank also locked. I was able to realign the shaft to be centered in the hole as well. My question is, if I have a dual-row bearing cover, should I use the dual row spacers?

. ..

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346278174.jpg

Got the shaft to center up now, but still don't know which spacer setup to use, single or double row.

I made some measurements, and found that only the single row spacer setup will actually fit, so that's what I put in. The cover went on easily. I bolted up the flywheel and unlocked crank and cams, pulled ignition fuse, and turned over the engine with starter. The squeak is still there!

I am considering buttoning up the whole car and just driving it around a bit. If something got a little off from hammering on the IMS, it may go back with a little driving. I will stop if the noise worsens.

LN and my company alike only support our products. Though you may be using the extraction tool that I designed, we simply cannot support products that we haven't developed or use.

Since you have installed that particular bearing, you now know more about it than I do... Because we don't use them. We can't help you with the first hand experience if we don't have that first hand experience.

Chevy doesn't support a Ford and BMW doesn't support a Porsche, its the same difference.

Of course, I totally understand. Just explaining why I wasn't able to ask you guys about the problem.

Where is the squeal coming from?

Have you isolated it to a point source?

I know that can be a real PITA.

sometimes a stethoscope helps.

Mike

tried the stethescope, Mike with no luck. But with my ears, I can isolate it to the cylinder #4 area.

There was a lot of banging on the IMS, maybe it shifted forwards a few .001s and is pulling weirdly on the bank #2 oil pump?

So did LN engineering supply the bearing?

And as for squeaking, well here in my shop we have a simple time saving philosophy. If the car didnt have the problem when you took it apart, that means you broke it.

Its possible you may have overtightened the nut for the bearing?

Hello

To Check Camshaft Timing with IMS cover in place of course....


You said you locked the engine at DTC with the left cam bank locked ....OK...
when you rotate your engine 360 degrees , you should be able to lock the right side with the tool
and with another 360 degrees to get back on the left side locking position.

you cannot have the right and left tools aligned at DTC.

If it doesn't work this way then You must have a problem with the timing.
I hope it is not the case.

on my 2002 boxster I have a single row

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346345229.jpg
gle

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346349789.jpg

This is the front side of left cylinder bank (4-6).
I think this is the location of the front tensioner paddle.

BB,
Can you get a bore scope in there? Maybe see what is going on before taking the engine removal plunge...

Most likely a broken chain guide....

This is a little far fetched.....

There is a very small pin that is the far end of the chain guide post.
that the chain guide rests and rotates on.

If that pin sheared off, the end of that post could be "floating"
and when the chain is stressed it's vibrating against the inner wall of the
chain guide chamber?

I broke one upon reassembly one time when I was torqueing the chain guide post.

Mike

No idea, but I'm thinking now of just driving the car a bit around the block to see if by making the noise I can possibly wear down whatever is interfering or misaligned. If the noise gets better, I keep driving, if worse head back. I'm going to make a WAG though that it's not gonna change. I have a feeling this engine's going to be coming apart...

I checked the oil filter and there was no debris in it, metallic or otherwise.

So, weirdly I have a shaft that will ONLY accept a single row bearing (I measured to be sure), but the cover is definitely dual-row type.

I think that's an extremely bad idea. Noises generally don't go away with positive results.

There is no possibility of a good outcome from this that prevents you from spending less money. Either take the bull by the horns and get it into a qualified mechanic to fix this or you might as well just start throwing money away my friend.

Normally, I would agree with you, but after reviewing some recordings I made of the noise earlier, it does actually seem like the noise is abating somewhat compared to before.

Probably because whatever is making the noise is slowly wearing away..........but that does not mean it is getting better, just that it is wearing away.

I've been working on engines of all types since the age of 8.. Cars, trucks, tractors and jets.

I haven't heard a "good" noise yet. The engine is screaming to you that its hurting. Either you listen to it and do whats required, or it will show you who the boss is.

I vote a screwed up chain guide or tensioner. If you put enough miles on her, the noise is guaranteed to stop. :eek:

BB...
Above has been half a dozen very knowlegable people giving you the same good advice - don't procede without due care & caution. And the advice is for free too.....
Now you may believe you know more than this collective brains trust and you may have plenty of money to burn on your engine, but if I were you I would think long & hard about the possible (probable) outcome of "just driving the car a bit".
It really looks like its time for some professional advice (and that's not being defeatist, just smart looking at the potential outcome). I suspect it will be a lot cheaper than the suck it and see action you are proposing.

i would agree with the above... you'll have to have have some huge huevos and a wallet to match if you are going to push an engine in pain.

this might help you: Pelican Technical Article: Porsche Boxster / 996 Engine Teardown & Disassembly

yep it might mean a partial disassembly, but if you do go that route you may as well make it worthwhile.

So, as you may've seen in another thread, I solved the squealing issue -- it was a loose plug. I wasn't following good diagnostic procedure and wound up spending a lot of unnecessary cash. Always check the small things first!

Thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions. The car is running great now with new clutch / coils / oil / IMSB!

The only thing you can do in these situations is re-trace your steps and whether or not you think the issue is related to what you've done you have to check it anyway. Good job finding it..

Good you found it, and a much less expensive fix than anticipated. The process of elimination works. :)