Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
You simply need to disconnect both ends of the line and blow air into it to make sure it is not blocked. Just about any compressed air source will work.
The crank sensor is a simple "Hall Effect" unit that generates a signal if ferrous metal passes near it (like the shutter on the flywheel, which triggers it when the engine is turning). When the sensor fails, the DME thinks the engine stopped turning and shuts off the fuel system. Problem is that what you are seeing is intermittent, making testing problematic as you would need to catch it doing it using a device like an oscilloscope (the factory test procedure) or a data logging system. On the flip side, the sensor is over $100, so you don’t want to go changing it without good reason. Sometimes these things throw a P0336 code, have you checked the DME to see if one is stored?
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Hi JFP in PA, Thanks for your patience w/a rookie. Here's my pic of my EVAP canister:
http://986forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16295&stc=1&d=1340566482
Which 1 of the 3 do I blow out w/an air compressor or should I do all 3? And what's the best way to disconnect the lines (they almost look as if they unscrew...)? Do I have to disconnect the other end or can I leave it connected? If disconnect, how do I find the other end?
Have a nice weekend, Dean
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