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New Neighbor Said: "You're killing your engine"...thoughts?
I recently moved to southern california (woodland hills) and had to stop at my neighbors house when i saw he was cleaning his 996. Beautiful car...pristine.
We started into the typical "Porsche talk" and he asked what kind of engine oil i put in my car('97 2.5, 105k mi)...he said "its 0-40, right?" I said "no, i just changed the oil and put in mobil 1 10-40, high mileage". He then proceeded to tell me that, not only was i robbing myself of horsepower (not a big deal to me...not at price of longevity), but i was going to eventually make it seize as the viscosity is too thick. Sounds a bit extreme to me. I would think that 10 weight oil, being a little thicker, would give better protection and stick to gears longer...and i know a few of you are using it. Am i wrong? I'd hate to have to change my oil again, as i did it yesterday, but if i need to, i will. Please, any thoughts? |
I'm not an oil expert, but i use 0w in the winter, 5w in summer from reading this forum. A lot of people seem to have moved away from mobile 1 as well, but I still use it.
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Sounds a bit extreme. Lots of people have lots of opinions about oil. Just because a guy spent more $$ on his car doesn't mean he knows stuff.
My take: Use a full synthetic oil and change it every 4-5K miles. Any quality oil between 0-40 to 10-50 will not destroy your car. My personal choice- Castrol Syntec 5w40 :cheers: |
Once your engine is fully warmed up (180+) you're both running 40 weight oil so unless Hi-mileage is not full synthetic there is no horsepower difference & your neighbor is not a oil expert either. Search this forum for oil info.
Whats the best bar in Pismo Beach? |
Does not go below zero in "Woodland hills, so you're fine with the weight you chose. Some even suggest the change you made is actually better for the M96, I can't see it being an issue.
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Since your in California and does not reach sub-freezing temp. its okay to use 10W, 15W or 20W oil weight. ;) I use Castrol 10W40. :)
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If there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................
And his font of course |
10w-40 is the perfect oil weight for the temperature ranges here in LA. You will definitely not destroy your engine.
Mobil 1 High Mileage has a more extensive anti-wear and seal conditioning package than regular Mobil 1. |
the first number is cold weight, the second weight at temperature. colder regions require a lighter cold weight so that the oil has adequate fluidity during a cold start. once to temp all else is equal. in warm temperatures the cold weight is really moot, except - ask your neighbour if he worries about his chain tensioner paddles at all; with that runny oil of his all the oil runs back down to the bottom of the engine so on a cold start the chain is flapping against a dry paddle - does he see a lot of green black chunks of plastic in his oil filter?
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Thats the same oil I use... The oil galleys in the M96 engine are huge and will probably flow almost anything.
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10-40 is a great weight for your climate, especially summer time. As a matter of fact, I feel that using 0w or even 5w would be too thin. Down here in Texas, with hot ass temperatures of 93F+ a day and three months straight of 100F+ we have Porsche enthusiasts that use 15w-20w-40-50. I personally use 10w-40 high mileage in my car, and have never had a problem. Was actually looking to see if I could find me some 15w-50.
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Thanks all! You guys rock |
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http://www.qualitysites.com/Harrys/ |
I am tired of opinionated people especially when their opinion is not asked for. Your neighbor has been outvoted by members of this forum. That's my opinion anyway:):):)
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I always just BYOB to the dunes when I used to live up that way
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Mike |
Why would you use 20W-50 in your engine even in elevated air temperatures - thicker is not always better.
The secret to good lubrication and cooling is oil flow, not viscosity. If oil thickness ( xxW-50) was the secret recipe for hot climates, why wouldn't you put in strait W-50 oil? The oil flow to the bearings is (generally) dictated by the coolant temperature - lowering the coolant is possibly the best thing you can do for your oil. In the old days, if you had 10 psi per 1000 rpm @ hot running temperture (never mind the viscosity), you were good to go.... |
Modern oils are pretty good, I had a rotax 2 stoke in my plane that needed 50:1 mix. Turns out on one occasion it had about 500:1, we flew for about 3 hrs duration no indications whatsoever.
Dont loose any sleep over a 0w or 10w |
Fairly simple chart but you get the point. -20 F in Cali? Unless you're up in the highest mountain?
http://s1.hubimg.com/u/223700_f520.jpg |
[QUOTE=Jager;290631]I live 15 minutes from Pismo, Harry's is a fun bar and it's close to the beach. :cheers:
Harrys...eh...scummy at times... Mr. Ricks is nearby in Avila Beach and always a nice bar for a good time. The Boardroom is right off the beach, left of the pier (if facing it from the parking lot), they only serve beer, but its a ********************in' place...good snacks too. |
Yeah, anyone who makes claims like that (neighbor) is so full of it.
Oil viscosity is based on temperature, so the only extreme the engine would see would be way below freezing or "racing." Most synthetics in the normal viscosity ranges are more than enough to protect in street driving, esp CA. |
more viscosity info
2 Attachment(s)
To go with ekam's chart, here's SAE J300 specs on viscosity grades. I've also provided the SAE J306 specs (gear oil) if anyone wants it.
Regards, paul... |
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And yes, some racers back in the day have been known to use single viscosity 40 or 50 weight but these days almost everyone simply runs a temperature appropriate multi-grade oil. Last, its almost impossible to separate facts from marketing hype these days. Even if a straight 30 weight would work fine for many people (like it did for many of us, our parents, or our grandparents), the oil companies have marketed multi-viscosity oils so heavily that single viscosity oils are nearly obsolete regardless of the reasons/benefits/concerns. |
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