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-   -   New Neighbor Said: "You're killing your engine"...thoughts? (http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/35494-new-neighbor-said-youre-killing-your-engine-thoughts.html)

anti-bling 05-16-2012 07:23 AM

New Neighbor Said: "You're killing your engine"...thoughts?
 
I recently moved to southern california (woodland hills) and had to stop at my neighbors house when i saw he was cleaning his 996. Beautiful car...pristine.

We started into the typical "Porsche talk" and he asked what kind of engine oil i put in my car('97 2.5, 105k mi)...he said "its 0-40, right?" I said "no, i just changed the oil and put in mobil 1 10-40, high mileage". He then proceeded to tell me that, not only was i robbing myself of horsepower (not a big deal to me...not at price of longevity), but i was going to eventually make it seize as the viscosity is too thick.

Sounds a bit extreme to me. I would think that 10 weight oil, being a little thicker, would give better protection and stick to gears longer...and i know a few of you are using it. Am i wrong? I'd hate to have to change my oil again, as i did it yesterday, but if i need to, i will.

Please, any thoughts?

SoK 05-16-2012 07:58 AM

I'm not an oil expert, but i use 0w in the winter, 5w in summer from reading this forum. A lot of people seem to have moved away from mobile 1 as well, but I still use it.

Topless 05-16-2012 08:31 AM

Sounds a bit extreme. Lots of people have lots of opinions about oil. Just because a guy spent more $$ on his car doesn't mean he knows stuff.

My take: Use a full synthetic oil and change it every 4-5K miles. Any quality oil between 0-40 to 10-50 will not destroy your car.

My personal choice- Castrol Syntec 5w40 :cheers:

BYprodriver 05-16-2012 08:31 AM

Once your engine is fully warmed up (180+) you're both running 40 weight oil so unless Hi-mileage is not full synthetic there is no horsepower difference & your neighbor is not a oil expert either. Search this forum for oil info.

Whats the best bar in Pismo Beach?

Ghostrider 310 05-16-2012 08:33 AM

Does not go below zero in "Woodland hills, so you're fine with the weight you chose. Some even suggest the change you made is actually better for the M96, I can't see it being an issue.

Joel-Box-ster 05-16-2012 09:05 AM

Since your in California and does not reach sub-freezing temp. its okay to use 10W, 15W or 20W oil weight. ;) I use Castrol 10W40. :)

JFP in PA 05-16-2012 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anti-bling (Post 290540)
I recently moved to southern california (woodland hills) and had to stop at my neighbors house when i saw he was cleaning his 996. Beautiful car...pristine.

We started into the typical "Porsche talk" and he asked what kind of engine oil i put in my car('97 2.5, 105k mi)...he said "its 0-40, right?" I said "no, i just changed the oil and put in mobil 1 10-40, high mileage". He then proceeded to tell me that, not only was i robbing myself of horsepower (not a big deal to me...not at price of longevity), but i was going to eventually make it seize as the viscosity is too thick.

Sounds a bit extreme to me. I would think that 10 weight oil, being a little thicker, would give better protection and stick to gears longer...and i know a few of you are using it. Am i wrong? I'd hate to have to change my oil again, as i did it yesterday, but if i need to, i will.

Please, any thoughts?

If there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................

97 Boxster 05-16-2012 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jfp in pa (Post 290566)
if there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................

lol :) Very funny

Ghostrider 310 05-16-2012 09:59 AM

If there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................

And his font of course

thstone 05-16-2012 10:30 AM

10w-40 is the perfect oil weight for the temperature ranges here in LA. You will definitely not destroy your engine.

Mobil 1 High Mileage has a more extensive anti-wear and seal conditioning package than regular Mobil 1.

The Radium King 05-16-2012 10:54 AM

the first number is cold weight, the second weight at temperature. colder regions require a lighter cold weight so that the oil has adequate fluidity during a cold start. once to temp all else is equal. in warm temperatures the cold weight is really moot, except - ask your neighbour if he worries about his chain tensioner paddles at all; with that runny oil of his all the oil runs back down to the bottom of the engine so on a cold start the chain is flapping against a dry paddle - does he see a lot of green black chunks of plastic in his oil filter?

feelyx 05-16-2012 11:30 AM

Thats the same oil I use... The oil galleys in the M96 engine are huge and will probably flow almost anything.

Joel-Box-ster 05-16-2012 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anti-bling (Post 290540)
but i was going to eventually make it seize as the viscosity is too thick.

You only gonna seize the engine if you ran out of oil in the crankcase, just like what happened to my co-workers sister 80's Supra the engine is so seized the crankshaft wont rotate using a breaker bar. :mad:

Kenny Boxster 05-16-2012 12:19 PM

10-40 is a great weight for your climate, especially summer time. As a matter of fact, I feel that using 0w or even 5w would be too thin. Down here in Texas, with hot ass temperatures of 93F+ a day and three months straight of 100F+ we have Porsche enthusiasts that use 15w-20w-40-50. I personally use 10w-40 high mileage in my car, and have never had a problem. Was actually looking to see if I could find me some 15w-50.

anti-bling 05-16-2012 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA (Post 290566)
If there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................

.....hahahhahahahahahahahaha:p

Thanks all! You guys rock

ekam 05-16-2012 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA (Post 290566)
If there is anything "too thick" here, it is your neighbor........................

He might think you're complementing his.... never mind... :eek:

Jager 05-16-2012 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BYprodriver (Post 290551)

Whats the best bar in Pismo Beach?

I live 15 minutes from Pismo, Harry's is a fun bar and it's close to the beach. :cheers:

http://www.qualitysites.com/Harrys/

recycledsixtie 05-17-2012 04:42 AM

I am tired of opinionated people especially when their opinion is not asked for. Your neighbor has been outvoted by members of this forum. That's my opinion anyway:):):)

fivepointnine 05-17-2012 06:54 AM

I always just BYOB to the dunes when I used to live up that way

seningen 05-17-2012 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenny Boxster (Post 290602)
10-40 is a great weight for your climate, especially summer time. As a matter of fact, I feel that using 0w or even 5w would be too thin. Down here in Texas, with hot ass temperatures of 93F+ a day and three months straight of 100F+ we have Porsche enthusiasts that use 15w-20w-40-50. I personally use 10w-40 high mileage in my car, and have never had a problem. Was actually looking to see if I could find me some 15w-50.

I run either 15W-50 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer.

Mike

Steve Tinker 05-18-2012 12:53 AM

Why would you use 20W-50 in your engine even in elevated air temperatures - thicker is not always better.
The secret to good lubrication and cooling is oil flow, not viscosity. If oil thickness ( xxW-50) was the secret recipe for hot climates, why wouldn't you put in strait W-50 oil?
The oil flow to the bearings is (generally) dictated by the coolant temperature - lowering the coolant is possibly the best thing you can do for your oil.
In the old days, if you had 10 psi per 1000 rpm @ hot running temperture (never mind the viscosity), you were good to go....

howe 05-18-2012 02:49 AM

Modern oils are pretty good, I had a rotax 2 stoke in my plane that needed 50:1 mix. Turns out on one occasion it had about 500:1, we flew for about 3 hrs duration no indications whatsoever.
Dont loose any sleep over a 0w or 10w

ekam 05-18-2012 03:47 AM

Fairly simple chart but you get the point. -20 F in Cali? Unless you're up in the highest mountain?

http://s1.hubimg.com/u/223700_f520.jpg

anti-bling 05-18-2012 08:38 PM

[QUOTE=Jager;290631]I live 15 minutes from Pismo, Harry's is a fun bar and it's close to the beach. :cheers:

Harrys...eh...scummy at times... Mr. Ricks is nearby in Avila Beach and always a nice bar for a good time. The Boardroom is right off the beach, left of the pier (if facing it from the parking lot), they only serve beer, but its a ********************in' place...good snacks too.

986_c6 05-23-2012 10:26 PM

Yeah, anyone who makes claims like that (neighbor) is so full of it.

Oil viscosity is based on temperature, so the only extreme the engine would see would be way below freezing or "racing." Most synthetics in the normal viscosity ranges are more than enough to protect in street driving, esp CA.

paulv 05-24-2012 05:58 AM

more viscosity info
 
2 Attachment(s)
To go with ekam's chart, here's SAE J300 specs on viscosity grades. I've also provided the SAE J306 specs (gear oil) if anyone wants it.

Regards,
paul...

BYprodriver 05-24-2012 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jager (Post 290631)
I live 15 minutes from Pismo, Harry's is a fun bar and it's close to the beach. :cheers:

Harry's Night Club and Beach Bar Pismo

Just saw this, thanks & beware of Speed yellow boxster embracing it's freedom on hwy1 this Memorial Day! :eek:

thstone 05-24-2012 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker (Post 290793)
Why would you use 20W-50 in your engine even in elevated air temperatures - thicker is not always better.
The secret to good lubrication and cooling is oil flow, not viscosity. If oil thickness ( xxW-50) was the secret recipe for hot climates, why wouldn't you put in strait W-50 oil?
The oil flow to the bearings is (generally) dictated by the coolant temperature - lowering the coolant is possibly the best thing you can do for your oil.
In the old days, if you had 10 psi per 1000 rpm @ hot running temperture (never mind the viscosity), you were good to go....

I am not an oil expert but my understanding (which could be wrong) is that at high temps lower viscosity oils can thin and/or become aerated to an extent that will reduce the oil's ability to adequately lubricate the moving parts. Thus, it has been common practice to use higher viscosity oil in warmer climates in an attempt to mitigate these concerns.

And yes, some racers back in the day have been known to use single viscosity 40 or 50 weight but these days almost everyone simply runs a temperature appropriate multi-grade oil.

Last, its almost impossible to separate facts from marketing hype these days. Even if a straight 30 weight would work fine for many people (like it did for many of us, our parents, or our grandparents), the oil companies have marketed multi-viscosity oils so heavily that single viscosity oils are nearly obsolete regardless of the reasons/benefits/concerns.


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