Rear Remote Trunk Release
 

I am having issues with the remote rear remote trunk release. When I push the trunk release on my key I can hear the mechanism doing something but the trunk lid is not popping up. I can access the trunk by using the manual release lever. I'm guessing it's not a super big problem since I do hear the latch doing something. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Keysguy

try spraying some silicone lube into the latch mechanism once in a while that should elivate that problem

sadly the fix is not that simple......

the manual release and remote release use 2 different cables on the latch. Pull the latch cover off in the trunk (2 philips screws, IIRC) and you'll likely see one silver cable has frayed (with the eyelet still hanging on the actuator arm)...

So, you can either replace the entire cable (or you might have to replace the whole actuator if cable not separately replaceable), or you can use an electrical stranded wire connector/grounding lug to make a new (more sturdy) connection to the arm. Depending on size of lug (you want a small one), you may need to shorten the wire a bit more (or fold it over when inserting into lug to tighten). Take the eyelet w/ you to any hardware store so you get one that will fit over the arm.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...c6cb35_300.jpg or http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...cda8b9_300.jpg or http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...93e119_300.jpg


Or you could really cheat and just crimp it to the parallel manual wire. However, I recommend strongly against this b/c if the manual wire ever frays, you'll be royally screwed for getting in there to fix...


Good luck :)

Thanks that was it, the cable is broke I haven't dug to deep into this yet. Does anyone have a blow up of this area or a blow up of the part and what it will take to get at it?

Thanks,
Greg

OK short update:

I "think" the part I need is 986-512-117-00-M100. It appears that there are conflicting instructions some places state this is for 2001 -2004 others state 97-2004 so I'm kind of lost until I pull things apart and see exactly what is in there. I found a parts blow up. Before I dig to far and take apart more then I may need to does anyone have any words of wisdom from previous experiences with this repair?

Bonez

Words of wisdom and from experience says to make a stronger repair as I suggested above for < $2 (even if you throw away all the other in the bag) as opposed to $150+ for a new actuator. The actuator you have functions perfectly, it's the eyelet connector which is the weak link and will be identical on the new one... This of course assumes the cable broke at the end by the latch, where they most typically do, as opposed by the actuator.

Good luck :)

The wire look an awful lot like wire I use to rig some of my offshore fishing lures. I am considering crimping a extension to the existing wire, wrapping a loop around the post and doing another crimp. The wire is badly frayed and it's been my experience crimping wire that frayed doesn't work well. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow after I go to the boat and get my rigging box.

Short update

My "rig" job did not work. I did order the new part. I just got around to installing it, and all I can say is "what a PITA". it's looks like an easy enough job but there a a couple of small nuts and bolts that are tough to get at. I ended up just getting the top ones loose and sliding it out the bottom and then sliding the new one in. It's in now and works.

I am in need of one small part. The trunk liner is held in with small black plastic "retaining pins". I somehow lost one. I do not know exactly what the technical name is and I'm having trouble finding them on-line. Does someone Know what name for them is and where I can order them?

Thanks,
Keysguy