Low RPM/Cold stutter

[jhandy]

with the maf disconnected the car runs in a default air fuel map. Just like when you disconnect the battery and before the car learns...it runs default.

If the MAF is sending out crap readings, when you unplug, it will run better.

I think I can say with confidence that it is the consensus that any oil is risky and really might damage maf.

I am sure someone will speak up defending an oiled filter, but are you willing to risk a 250$ MAF sensor just because you over oiled. Besides, Power gains are very debatable that any replacement really matters.

I regret installing mine. Not because of MAF, but because my "cold air intake" really increased my intake air temp by 50 degrees when measured off the ECU. But it was such a pain to install, I dont want to undo it.

They make cone filters that are dry-oilless-reuseable-washable. I have one, works fine.

[sparker]

Appreciate your response and will try unplugging the MAF. Although I am relatively confident that its ok.

I have cleaned the MAF with proper CRC MAF spray which would remove all oil. Plus from what I hear, a new maf is less than $70US if you buy outside of porsche.

BMC is probably the world's top brand of air filters, especially for exotic cars. This filter outflows the stock piece easily and with my all carbon intake piping sealing off to the side vent, the inlet temps will not have increased at all. They should in fact drop due to the better thermal properties of carbon over plastic.

Sam

[jhandy]

there is a way to test the MAF device itself. You need a voltmeter, and a 12 volt power supply. Basically you are testing the connections, then you blow air across it, it will read out on voltmeter if good, and if you tap on it and it changes output, it is bad.

That is the idea, someone else will have to fill you in on specific methods. I found it easier to just replace it, and see.

Cleaning it does not matter, if it is going out the hair thin platinum wire is damaged or worn out. The fact that you said it ran much better with the computer reset is telling.

Do you have any codes?

[sparker]

Hi,

took the sensor out and gave it another clean on the weekend and then followed it up with a nice country drive of about 60km. (Lately I have only been doing the cold short trip to work and back - about 4km each way, car barely heats up) And it seemed to have helped quite a lot. Also put some fresh fuel in it as the last tank lasted probably about 2 or 3 months.

Car certainly liked the open road and getting up to temperature and may have helped the issue. Ran much nicer this morning on the way to work, still a slight hesitation though. Think I might order a new MAF to try anyway.

Regards,
Sam

[sparker]

oh - and no codes, but its still not 100% right.

Sam

[madmods]

Sam - I had the same issue(s) as you and ended up removing the entire throttle body assembly and deep-cleaned it. I've used "circuit board cleaner"... strong stuff and doesn't leave any residues. There is a valve in there (forgot the name of this one) that also need deep cleaning. Just make sure each parts of the assy is well cleaned and put this all back together and you'll have a brand new car bro.

After 10 years, mine was dust-oil-greese-bugs-****************e infested. It was very embarrasing to see.

While at it, you may also want to clean the airbox and conduits. Lots of ****************e residing there as well.

MAF, air filter goes after doing above.

Hope this helps

[madmods]

here goes some visuals if you are the DIY kinda guy

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots.htm

[Lobo1186]

I had the same issues, my solution was a new MAF, and new O2 sensors. Unfortunately, this can be expensive since the sensors are like 60 bux or something like that.