06-25-2010, 04:17 PM
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#1
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Thanks, guys. It sounds like a pretty good place to start, and it couldn't hurt to replace the part on the car.
I'll start poking around the pics and the diy and update. Thanks again.
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07-21-2010, 07:19 AM
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#2
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Hey, everyone, just putting in a little update. I finally got some time to speak to the dealer I bought the car from, and I explained the issues I was having, showing him the information I got from you guys and Pedro's write-up. I'll be going to pick up the switch this afternoon and dropping the car off to him next Tuesday for the whole day to look into my issues (this switch, no cold air from A/C, etc.). Might as well get what I can out of my warranty period. I'll update again to let you all know whether or not it solves the problem. Thanks again!
More updating for today: Went to the local Audi/Porsche dealership, gave em my part number and got the $35 switch for $29.75. I was about to show concern for something I thought needed to be there that doesn't, though. I thought I'd seen some sort of covering for those contacts at the bottom, but it seems there isn't one (can one of you confirm?). I can just see in the pictures above that the contacts are exposed on that switch, as well. And holy crap, this thing is tiny!
Well, got the part, so I'll be dropping the car in a little less than a week to get some things worked out, this included. Hopefully it'll be just what she needs.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
Last edited by Overdrive; 07-21-2010 at 02:00 PM.
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07-21-2010, 02:58 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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07-21-2010, 04:43 PM
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#4
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by blinkwatt
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Thank you, blink, I'll definitely check these guys out in the future, especially if they carry other parts for the car. I just wanted to make sure I got the right one this first time around, and the highest it could be ($35) wasn't all that disagreeable for me. I'm just appreciative of the fact that there are some parts on this vehicle that don't go into the 3 and 4-figure range.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
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07-28-2010, 10:28 AM
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#5
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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no dice
 well, had them change the switch, which did not resolve the problem, unfortunately. Surprisingly, the old switch looked nearly as good as the one I bought from Audi...I really had to check to see the slightly higher amount of corrosion on the contacts to convince myself that he had indeed replaced the switch...and am just now literally realizing I should check for the Audi symbol on the part.
Here's some more info I've noted while driving I figure I should share that might help others recognize the issue:
- when driving the car, I will almost consistently get headllight and instrument light dimming and/or radio cutout when I initially step on the brake, and it seems to happen more often when in motion versus stepping on the brake when stopped. I've tested this out a few times and lifted my foot and pressed again a few times in succession. At night it is especially noticeable to see the headlights and instruments dim briefly and come back, or to see them doing their flickering thing in the reflection of the lights on the body of the vehicle in front of me at a light.
-If I have a bit of a slow start where the RPMs drop pretty low, where it seems the car could potentially stall, the lights will dim and the radio will cut out, all of which goes right back to normal once I'm rolling.
-This one I can't confirm entirely, but it seems that sometimes when making small adjustments to the accelerator input that the radio seems to cut out during this. It will sometimes do this as well if I lift off of the accelerator to begin breaking or otherwise slowing down, so somtimes I can get two radio cutouts in a row, one from the lift, the other from stepping on the brake.
-It is any and all lighting in the vehicle, from the dome light to the little door mounted lights, and seems to be only when the engine is running that this occurs, though I'll have to try playing the radio, turning on some lights, and stepping on the brake just running off the battery to see what happens then.
Anyways, he managed to resolve pretty much all my other concerns with the car unrelated to this (I have cold air from my A/C now  ), which is great, but my light flickering and radio cutting out are still occuring. And I will say, I don't often drive with the radio or a CD playing, I prefer to listen to my cars when I drive them, but it's kind of annoying when you occasionally do so and have the thing cutting in and out. Can anyone tell me where else I should have him look for a problem? Could it be the alternator? I pretty much have this week and the next to get it resolved while still under the warranty, so I want to try and do so. Thanks again for all the help so far...hopefully I'll be able to get this fixed.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
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07-29-2010, 01:33 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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This sound like you have a high resistance grounding problem.
Try removing both battery connections (make sure you have the radio code beforehand) and clean them both thoroughly - including the internal faces of the clamps.... grease the cleaned external connections to stop future corrosion.
The other end of the negative terminal (-) connects to the chassis - this must be rust and corrosion free. Wire brush (emery cloth) the mating surfaces after removal and make sure the connection is tight.
The Boxster headlights are a "plug in" type which could have a high resistence connection which robs the rest of the electical system of voltage.
If you have a multi meter, you can sheck the resistence of the various grounding (negative) terminals but this can be very time consuming and if you don't have an electrical background a little confusing.
Hope this helps....
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
Last edited by Steve Tinker; 07-29-2010 at 01:40 AM.
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07-29-2010, 06:37 AM
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#7
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Steve, thanks for the advice there. I don't have a meter handy, unfortunately (one of those round-to-it items I haven't gotten around to  ), and this of course is a time where it'd be handy. I'm trying to remember where the ground connection for the battery cable is located. Was it somewhere in the passenger side fender?
I'll make a note of the items you've listed, and I'll likely be bringing the car back to him on Tuesday to have him attempt this. Thanks again.
Anyone got anything else I can have checked out?
EDIT: Forgot to mention, I checked into something else last night. I opened the door so the interior lights would be on, no key in the ignition, and pressed on the brake a few times to see what would happen. No flickering of those lights, though I also noted that unlike some cars, the brake lights didn't light without the car on. So I put the key in and turned it to ON (didn't start it), and stepped on the brake a few more times. Just about every time I got a little dim from the lights. They pretty much stayed steady unless I was doing that. Turned on the headlights and did it again, got some momentary dimming from them as well on brake pedal presses. So it does kind of sound like what you were saying, Steve. If anyone else has an idea of what might be afoot, lemme know. Thanks again.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
Last edited by Overdrive; 07-29-2010 at 06:54 AM.
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07-29-2010, 07:06 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Phoenix, Arizona Baby
Posts: 495
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Overdrive
Thank you, blink, I'll definitely check these guys out in the future, especially if they carry other parts for the car. I just wanted to make sure I got the right one this first time around, and the highest it could be ($35) wasn't all that disagreeable for me. I'm just appreciative of the fact that there are some parts on this vehicle that don't go into the 3 and 4-figure range. 
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THANKS FOR THE LINK ON AUTOHAUZ. I PURCHASED MY SWITCH TODAY. HOPEFULLY THAT WILL SOLVE A FEW OF MY GREMILNS :troll:
__________________
2006 Hummer H3 - RED 76k mi - LIFTED - 3rd row custom seating on 35's and a manual tranny.
1997 Boxster Guards - RED 86k mi - 19" Lobster Claw Wheels on Conti's , Porsche side decal for extra "speed", manual tranny -signed by Hurley Haywood
Phoenix, Arizona
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07-29-2010, 02:17 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: smyrna ga
Posts: 210
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I recently had some issues similar to yours and it ended up being my alternator.
To test it you will also need that 'round-to-it' multi-meter...
With the car running, test it at your battery terminals and the result should be 13-14v, if I remember correctly. I can't remember if I removed the ground or not but if you do a search on the forum you can find out the proper procedure to do the test.
Mine was putting out 11v which told me it was not generating enough power to charge my battery and help run the car's auxiliaries. Once I changed my alternator the problem went away.
__________________
- ian
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07-30-2010, 01:54 PM
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#10
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by idheaton
I recently had some issues similar to yours and it ended up being my alternator.
To test it you will also need that 'round-to-it' multi-meter...
With the car running, test it at your battery terminals and the result should be 13-14v, if I remember correctly. I can't remember if I removed the ground or not but if you do a search on the forum you can find out the proper procedure to do the test.
Mine was putting out 11v which told me it was not generating enough power to charge my battery and help run the car's auxiliaries. Once I changed my alternator the problem went away.
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idheaton, thanks for your input. I'm going to whip up a little list of all these things to have them checked. At this point I'm suspecting the alternator, too. Seeing as the ignition switch change didn't solve the problem, I'm back to my original suspicions of either grounding issues or a bad alternator. I guess we'll see what happens next week, and I'll be letting you guys know. Thanks!
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
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