I just swapped out my transmission over the holidays and found that the trans bolts were pretty tight. I used a 1/2" socket set and an 18" breaker bar to get them loose. Of course, its hard to say how tight is "tight" and how hard to push is "too hard".

To get to the upper bolts, I used every possible combination of u-joint + short or long socket + extension(s) to find the right setup that made getting each bolt out easier. You'll find that there is room to get to each bolt, you just have to find that good location and then match up the right combination of tools to reach.

My experience is about the same as "Thstone" My advice is use as few linked socket extensions as possible. Each joint reduces the impact and torque by 10-15%. Use the socket and one extension were possible with your impact tool. Best advice is purchase a IMPACT extension set with at least 4 sizes to fit your most common applications (Money well spent). The shanks are stiffer and flex less and the squares are less likely to deform. Common chrome extensions that come with your standard sockets flex too much for a 1/2" high torque impact.

+1 on an 18 inch breaker bar.

With the snorkel removed you can reach all the top bolts very easily from above.

I found many bolts that my air wrench would not turn until i had at least cracked them with the breaker bar

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have and use the impact sockets with the impact gun. Agree with using the least possible extensions for the job as possible to keep losses at a minimum. You'll have said what I suspected, need to use breaker bar as the force of the impact gun is not enough. Using the breaker bar on bolt D is going to tough.

Few more question: I have seen posts of people talking about the triple square bolts (star) but I did not see any on the TX... I also found bolt G missing. Is this common? Porsche did not put this bolt in? Should we leave it like that or replace with a M12x1.5x70mm? Also, what is the snorkel?

Thanks.

I used a u-joint and two (or more) long extensions and approached it from left side, way back behind the transmission. It was actually pretty easy once I got the socket onto the bolt.

I do not know how they come from the factory but its common for race shops to only use 5 bolts and leave off the rest so missing one bolt would not particularly worry me if it was my car. Feel free to replace the missing bolt as you see fit.

Made some progress today, thanks for your suggestions.

Was able to get the transmission out. Did find the triple square bill on the left bottom. Was able get a set from Ace Hardware locally to take that out.

Did see what I did not want to see! :mad:The bolt of the IMS bearing cover was lying at the bottom peeping from under the flywheel! Means I have IMS bearing issues. Did not see oil leakage though..not sure that is going to of much help...:-)

Now I cannot get the bearing cover off. Will try next weekend. Too tired for today.

Any suggestions will be appreciated...

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Wow, IMSB bolt sitting at the bottom of the bell housing flange!
Well in my case when I saw this on my car I already knew my IMSB had failed and by that stage there was oil dripping from that area. My oil sample, filter and sump had shown I had metal. I had to do a complete rebuild.
There is no oil leaking from yours, maybe your lucky. I would suggest you drain the oil (taking samples in a clear bottle), cut open your oil filter and inspect, remove you oil sump and inspect. NO metal is the only thing that is good.

Also don't forget to look up inside the engine after removing the oil pan.

Will do. Had taken the sump off and found some metal particles. See attached. Rest of the sump was clean...I plan also to take the cam covers off to take a look inside.

Any suggestions on how to get the IMS Bearing cover off? Although there is no oil (which is a good sign in and of itself) there is slight rust and the cover is jammed. I don't have the tool to take it off that the Porsche technicians have. Trying to pry it using two screw drivers is so far not helping. There is no place to wedge the screw drivers...Did apply some PBB and will try again in a day or two...
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Gently work around the three ears with a couple of these:

9-3/4" Multipurpose Pry Bar

Metal Particles ......agh. What about the filter, did you cut it open and inspect?

After removing the three bolts to the flange, the flange should be able to rotate left and right. You'll need a small (SMALL) hammer and gently (GENTLY) tap the tabs of the flange so as to rotate it enough to get a grip with screw drivers or pry bars to lift it off.
You can google IMSB flange to get an idea what your trying to remove.

Crios,
Suggest you contact :
Erik Johnson
The Race Line
(970) 344-7761
But first do all the research here and understand the price of the parts, the very special tools, the skills required to repair your gearbox.
R&R of the gearbox will save you lots of money and you can do all the other items while you are waiting for the repaired 'box to be returned.
Let us know how it works out for you?

Triple Square Wrench
 

For others looking for the triple square wrench shown in message #27:

I couldn't find it locally through the auto parts stores or Ace Hardware. I also wasn't sure what it was called, so I did a fair amount of internet searching.

Finally I found a set of metric triple square wrenches and they happen to match the photo: Titan 12733 Wrench Set. I was able to buy it on Amazon for about $20.

FWIW, my transmission case was also missing the bolt in position G.

Hope this helps,
Phred

Pelican parts has a tech article on this listed under boxster tech articles on the left side of their website.