Transmission Replacement - DIY or Shop?
 

So it seems I might be in need of a transmission replacement. The tranny is making a lot of noise in second gear, like rock in a tin can. How hard is it to swap out a tranny? Is this a DIY project for someone with mediocre experience and not afraid to get dirty?

Car in idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QM5vQxZO8w

Car in motion, you can hear at the 12 sec mark, but not very good. At the 30 sec mark you can hear very clear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOSvBa-fEus

It is not that difficult a project, even with the car sitting on jack stands. You are going to need some tools (a way to support the engine while you pull the gear box, a second supporting device or jack to carry the gear box, a good torque wrench, a 10MM triple square socket for one of the tran’s bolts, etc.). Not difficult, but sufficiently involved that you need a good reference manual to guide you through the process if you have not done it before………..

Do you know how to change out a clutch? If not, then I'd have someone else do it.

No, never done a clutch, but I changed out my suspension...with patience, a Bentley manual, this website, it’s probably possible to do. I have to think about it. I'd guess I'd be looking at about 8hrs worth of work with the proper tools...for my skill level.

Just to give you an idea, I had an old car when I was younger (and poor) that I had to change the transmission on 4-5 times. Bought them from the pick and pull junkyard and kept getting bad ones. Then, when I finally got a good one, it lasted 3 weeks before going out again.

As expected, I got better and better with each switch. For the last one, it still took me approx 2.5 hours to take it off and 3 hours to put the new one on. I'm guessing that it'll take you at least a few days if not more, considering the space you have to work with, my perceived experience from you, and the delicacy that must go into this car. Good luck though. I'll be rooting for you.

Crios; someone posted here a complete tranny (and engine removal) with pics and detailed information, if I can find it I'll post it here. Looks like a fun project (seriously) and you will save at least $800 - $1,000 IMHO

Crios;

Here is the link for the engine/transmission removal:

http://www.nutrod.com/Nutrod/Home.html

This guy took the time to documents every step for engine removal (and partial disassembling) with great detail however, you won't be going that far...

With the money you'll save, perhaps you may want to consider a new clutch..? ;)
.

I went through what you are describing earlier this year. I also did the IMS retrofit while in there along with replacing the clutch and RMS. If you take your time and follow the Bentley Manual it is not too tough of a job. Rebuild through Gbox will run $2400 to $3400 depending on what needs done (for an "S" 6 speed, yours may be less) plus shipping. :cheers:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/32315-ims-rms-tranny-r-r-tips/?

Thanks guys for all the help!!! I'm 99% sure I'll be doing it myself so this info is great!

Cesar, if you were in OC I would offer my help, sounds like a fun project.

Due to the notion "you never know what you're going to get," I would strongly consider rebuilding your gearbox than just buying a used one. Not only will you know exactly what you're going to get back, it will likely work better than new. This is also a great time to consider swapping out the factory open diff for some form of limited slip.

As to the difficulty of the swap, it's not too bad. Rear bumper removed, exhaust removed, then pull the gearbox. I'd swap the clutch, replace the RMS seal, and do an IMS upgrade while you're in there, have a good look at your CV joints, then put it all back together and enjoy life for a while :)

I plan on getting it rebuilt. I want to keep my car forever :)

Spent a couple hours working on it tonight. Jacked it up 2 feet off the ground (all fours), took the rear tires off, braces off, sway bar, and partial exhaust.

Tomorrow, buy some more tools, 10MM Triple square and Transmission Jack adapter, then at night (kids asleep, wife out of town) take off the total exhaust and some more support bars as well as CV Joints.

Tuesday, tranny comes out!

Wed, wife comes home, yikes :matchup:

Please keep us updated! :cheers: I'd like to know how it comes out. Also, those guides should be REALLY useful.

Tranny is OUT!!! Gbox here I come!

Total time spent - 7 hours

Difficulty...harder to find a 10MM Triple Square (12 point) socket!! With patience and faith, anything is possible. I would rate this as hard as changing out my brake discs, but a lot longer.

try a 55 Torx

Just an update.....2nd gear was broken in the tranny. I finally got the rebuilt back from GBOX on Wed and reinstalled it. Took me about 6-7 hours.

Tranny Costs:
Mainshaft - $525
2nd Gear - $457
3rd Gear Sync Ring - $90
4rd Gear Sync Ring - $90
Input Shaft Seal - $12
Differential Side Seal - $35
Labor to Repair - $1,200
Shipping - $175

Total = $2,583

Another $600 or so spent on shipping to GBOX, Tranny Oil, tools, Cooler in which to ship Tranny in and misc items.

The experience of doing it yourself: Priceless... :)
.

anyone know how high the car has to be for the transmission to clear?

My jack stands can reach around 17 inches. is that high enough or do I need new jack stands?

I'm looking at doing a tranny and/or gear box rebuild, and would happily offer free assistance to one of you guys in So Cal who may be thinking along the same lines.

Team,

I have a 2004 Boxster and am in process of removing the 5spd TX. Have removed everything as per the articles and am using the compressor (120 psi) and airtool but none of the bolts are budging. Is it normal, are they supposed to be that tight? Have applied PB Blaster over the late few days but to no avail. If I can't have B budging, I am wondering how I am going to remove D with the added loss of the socket extension?

Is it always that one has to use a long length ratchet or something and undo the bolts? The torque spec is not that high.

Any suggestion, comments will be helpful and appreciated.

I just swapped out my transmission over the holidays and found that the trans bolts were pretty tight. I used a 1/2" socket set and an 18" breaker bar to get them loose. Of course, its hard to say how tight is "tight" and how hard to push is "too hard".

To get to the upper bolts, I used every possible combination of u-joint + short or long socket + extension(s) to find the right setup that made getting each bolt out easier. You'll find that there is room to get to each bolt, you just have to find that good location and then match up the right combination of tools to reach.

My experience is about the same as "Thstone" My advice is use as few linked socket extensions as possible. Each joint reduces the impact and torque by 10-15%. Use the socket and one extension were possible with your impact tool. Best advice is purchase a IMPACT extension set with at least 4 sizes to fit your most common applications (Money well spent). The shanks are stiffer and flex less and the squares are less likely to deform. Common chrome extensions that come with your standard sockets flex too much for a 1/2" high torque impact.

+1 on an 18 inch breaker bar.

With the snorkel removed you can reach all the top bolts very easily from above.

I found many bolts that my air wrench would not turn until i had at least cracked them with the breaker bar

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have and use the impact sockets with the impact gun. Agree with using the least possible extensions for the job as possible to keep losses at a minimum. You'll have said what I suspected, need to use breaker bar as the force of the impact gun is not enough. Using the breaker bar on bolt D is going to tough.

Few more question: I have seen posts of people talking about the triple square bolts (star) but I did not see any on the TX... I also found bolt G missing. Is this common? Porsche did not put this bolt in? Should we leave it like that or replace with a M12x1.5x70mm? Also, what is the snorkel?

Thanks.

I used a u-joint and two (or more) long extensions and approached it from left side, way back behind the transmission. It was actually pretty easy once I got the socket onto the bolt.

I do not know how they come from the factory but its common for race shops to only use 5 bolts and leave off the rest so missing one bolt would not particularly worry me if it was my car. Feel free to replace the missing bolt as you see fit.

Made some progress today, thanks for your suggestions.

Was able to get the transmission out. Did find the triple square bill on the left bottom. Was able get a set from Ace Hardware locally to take that out.

Did see what I did not want to see! :mad:The bolt of the IMS bearing cover was lying at the bottom peeping from under the flywheel! Means I have IMS bearing issues. Did not see oil leakage though..not sure that is going to of much help...:-)

Now I cannot get the bearing cover off. Will try next weekend. Too tired for today.

Any suggestions will be appreciated...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1422250608.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1422250714.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1422250789.jpg

Wow, IMSB bolt sitting at the bottom of the bell housing flange!
Well in my case when I saw this on my car I already knew my IMSB had failed and by that stage there was oil dripping from that area. My oil sample, filter and sump had shown I had metal. I had to do a complete rebuild.
There is no oil leaking from yours, maybe your lucky. I would suggest you drain the oil (taking samples in a clear bottle), cut open your oil filter and inspect, remove you oil sump and inspect. NO metal is the only thing that is good.

Also don't forget to look up inside the engine after removing the oil pan.

Will do. Had taken the sump off and found some metal particles. See attached. Rest of the sump was clean...I plan also to take the cam covers off to take a look inside.

Any suggestions on how to get the IMS Bearing cover off? Although there is no oil (which is a good sign in and of itself) there is slight rust and the cover is jammed. I don't have the tool to take it off that the Porsche technicians have. Trying to pry it using two screw drivers is so far not helping. There is no place to wedge the screw drivers...Did apply some PBB and will try again in a day or two...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1422287466.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1422287497.jpg

Gently work around the three ears with a couple of these:

9-3/4" Multipurpose Pry Bar

Metal Particles ......agh. What about the filter, did you cut it open and inspect?

After removing the three bolts to the flange, the flange should be able to rotate left and right. You'll need a small (SMALL) hammer and gently (GENTLY) tap the tabs of the flange so as to rotate it enough to get a grip with screw drivers or pry bars to lift it off.
You can google IMSB flange to get an idea what your trying to remove.

Crios,
Suggest you contact :
Erik Johnson
The Race Line
(970) 344-7761
But first do all the research here and understand the price of the parts, the very special tools, the skills required to repair your gearbox.
R&R of the gearbox will save you lots of money and you can do all the other items while you are waiting for the repaired 'box to be returned.
Let us know how it works out for you?

Triple Square Wrench
 

For others looking for the triple square wrench shown in message #27:

I couldn't find it locally through the auto parts stores or Ace Hardware. I also wasn't sure what it was called, so I did a fair amount of internet searching.

Finally I found a set of metric triple square wrenches and they happen to match the photo: Titan 12733 Wrench Set. I was able to buy it on Amazon for about $20.

FWIW, my transmission case was also missing the bolt in position G.

Hope this helps,
Phred

Pelican parts has a tech article on this listed under boxster tech articles on the left side of their website.