car won't lock!

[tonycarreon]

since it's what usually gets a finger pointed at it when there's an electrical problem - ignition switch?

[Bladecutter]

If you have the Durametrics tool, you might be able to find out which item isn't setting.

BC.

[RandallNeighbour]

I replaced the ignition switch two years ago and the batteries in my remote just a few months ago... the problem occurs when I use the key in the door as well, so I don't think it's remote battery related.

The ignition switch might be out again, but I don't think this is the issue.

Keep those ideas coming!

[tnoice]

probably the ignition switch. my car did the exact same thing and it was the clicky thing in the switch that was stuck (do not know the technical term for it). I pushed the key back into the ignition turned it on, turned it off and pulled the key back out and the locks worked fine after that. The key cylinder thinks your key is in the ignition, so that is why the car is not locking.

[RandallNeighbour]

My mechanic is saying one of the door lock mechanisms is shot and that's causing the car to unlock. Evidently, when the timing is off between the two doors the alarm system unlocks the car thinking one door is open.

Sad part is that he quoted $250 for the friggin part plus labor! Sheesh. I do not have this kind of money to spend right now.

At any rate, he said he could diagnose it with a PST tool and I could bring the car to his place later this week or this weekend and he had the part in stock.

Just thought I'd report back on this thread for historical purposes for others to read in the years to come when it happens to them.

[vath2001]

$250 for parts. I think I paid about $400 in parts, which had to come from "da fatherland" , for my broken door parts. And another $400 in dealer labor.

[RandallNeighbour]

Quick update: Last night I fiddled with the car a bit and the passenger side door lock assembly makes a "brrrrt" sound as if it's tapping the striker plate and not actually clicking down to keep the door locked. Then the alarm system unlocks the doors and beeps twice.

It really must be my right door lock assembly gone out. Here's the crappy thing about this situation. I have a 97 without airbags. All the other 986 models have airbags in the doors and therefore the part is plentiful and cheap brand new @ $160.00.

LA dismantlers has a used one (Porsche part #3B1837016D) for get this... $500! Oklahoma Foreign says they never see them because these are rare, and German Auto Haus' web site says they have a used one for $156, but I am seriously doubting they actually possess that part so I've emailed them.

The 1997 is that one year model only and Sunset can order it for me for just $307 ($479.00 retail, and probably $600-900 at my local Sonic-owned stealership, which marks up parts 50% or more ABOVE retail).

I also discovered that this situation is critical to fix because the passenger side cannot be locked at this point, so the car is not secure in public. I guess I can drive it around when I like but not take my eyes off it in public or leave anything of value in the car for fear it will be stolen.

At any rate, I'll know for sure if this is what the problem is by the end of the weekend and report back here as to what I did about it and how much it cost to sort out.

I've a good mind to yank the old one out and fiddle with it to see if I can repair it with new solenoids or whatever. I'm no electronic wizard but being broke forces a guy to get smarter fast or go nowhere.

[prsch1]

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour

My mechanic is saying one of the door lock mechanisms is shot and that's causing the car to unlock. Evidently, when the timing is off between the two doors the alarm system unlocks the car thinking one door is open.

Sad part is that he quoted $250 for the friggin part plus labor! Sheesh. I do not have this kind of money to spend right now.

At any rate, he said he could diagnose it with a PST tool and I could bring the car to his place later this week or this weekend and he had the part in stock.

Just thought I'd report back on this thread for historical purposes for others to read in the years to come when it happens to them.

I have been reading up on your door lock issue before RandallNeighbour, how you have successfully addressed it and the advice others have generously given. In turn, I wanted to request help in figuring out what I should.

Car is a '98 Boxster with M535 option that experienced the water under seat occurrence. Replaced alarm control unit. Main issue is that the key remote control does not lock and unlock both doors. Also, the dash central lock button is not working. The driver's door can be locked using the key but even when locking the driver's door with the key, the passenger door remains unlocked. The remote is however able to open the rear trunk and the red LED on dash blinks when the remote is pressed. So it appears that the key remote is able to send signals.
Curiously, when the key remote control is pressed, the gas cap door pin actuates to lock but almost immediately retracts (and the gas cap actuator makes a buzzing sound in the process) so gas cap door is also always unlocked (even when manually locking the driver's door with the key, you hear a buzzing sound from the gas cap door actuator, and the gas cap door remains unlocked).
The windows drop down a few inches when the outside and inside door handles are used. Even with the emergency three times manual turn of the key on the driver's door, the passenger door remains unlocked.

Durametric shows the following alarm faults:

46:
Control locking synchronization
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

10:
Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 1
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

47:
Control locking synchronization
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 13
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.


25:
W lead
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 1
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

21:
W lead (DME immobilizer)
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 1
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

33:
Interior sensor faulty
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 14
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

23:
W lead
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 31
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

Thank you so much in advance for all your help.

[RandallNeighbour]

I've no idea what all those codes mean nor did I hook up my boxster to an ODB tool.

What you are describing though is a bad door lock mechanism in the passenger side just as I had. When it could not lock the door, it sprang back into unlocked mode.

You are in luck though. The 98's through the 03's use the same part number and you should be able to get a passenger door lock assembly cheap and they will be plentiful.

You can take off the door panel and pop it out in under two hours if you are willing to give it a try. The only difficult part is finding the correct bit for the bolts on the exterior of the door that hold the mechanism in place. I bought a rather expensive 12-point bit set from Sears to do the job and it still didn't break the seal on the bolts they were so tight and I ended up stripping out one or two of them. Vice grips on the edge of the bolt does work though but you'll need touch-up paint afterwards if you are as anal as I am about my car.

Start contacting salvage yards.