Did a Motorflush with GUNK motorflush and change oil WOW!
 

Dang finished it up and it feels like a brand new car!!! The oil that i drained out before i put the motor flush in it was about golden brown, looked like pretty healthy oil, then i put the motor flush in and idled for about 10 mins then drained the oil and it was BLACK. I'm talking really black like the way oil looks if you don't change it for a year. Put in Mobil 1 High mileage oil 10w-30 (she has 80k miles) and filled er up and now she feels REALLY good. Acceleration is so smooth and even just reving it, it doesn't feel heavy anymore. Better throttle response and just smoother all around drive it feels like a brand new car.

IS Gunk the brand name?

I might try it...

Yea it's the brand name you can pick it up at your local auto parts store i got mine from Autozone. Basically what it does is it's a cleaning agent that cleans out everywhere your oil goes. So the walls of the cylinder sleeves, the crank case, the pistons, the rods everything. They do the same stuff at oil change places but they charge u like $40 there u can DIY for like $10

I assume that you used either their 5 MINUTE MOTOR FLUSH or their SYNTHETIC MOTOR FLUSH. If so, plan on doing a short interval oil change in the next 500-1000 miles (personally I'd go no more than 500 miles).

That's because this product is more than 75% solvents, mostly kerosene, and simply draining it with the oil does not eliminate it all from the system, nor does the new oil really dilute it in any way. Instead, the remaining solvents tend to cause an early breakdown of the 'new' oil.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not averse to using a motor flush at all. But, if you don't get it all out, your attempt to clean the motor can, over the long run, actually do more harm than good. If flushing the motor, consider it a $100-$200 project, or don't do it at all.

You don't state what weight oil you were running before the flush. While you may well have improved the engine performance, if you started with 40 or 50 weight and switched to 30 weight, that could well account for what you're experiencing. Btw, the general concensus is that 30 weight oil is too light for the M96 engine (do a search on motor oil weights here - no shortage of reading material). If short servicing it in the near future, I would recommend refilling with a 40 weight oil.

:cheers:

"Lil" nailed it.

Put the stuff in.. drain it.. put CHEAP/JUNK oil back in for a couple of hundred miles, then switch to the oil of your choice!

B

I used 10w-30 full synthetic before and after because that's mostly what they sell in 90% of stores around here. I usually keep a very close eye on my oil levels and color. Making sure that it's no darker than golden brown and it's sitting right right at optimum level. My next oil change i'll have to try a 40 weight or 50 weight, but so far 30 weight has been good to me. If i notice the oil getting much darker prematurely i would of course change the oil earlier but for now i've been noticing the car runs much smoother, much better throttle response and it just feels not as heavy as it used to.

This was my experience with the motor flush i'll have to update this after sometime to see how it all worked out.

Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff

You did fine. Think of it this way: Taking a bath. You wash, you rinse, but you are still sitting in the dirt/grime that came off of you!! you then turn the shower on to rinse off.. change the oil again (final rinse)


B

+1 on no 30 weight oil and doing a quick change to get out the solvents!! :cheers:

I use castrol syntec xxW40. Just my preference after some extensive research. just replace xx with your climate's tolerable level. there are better but they are a lot more $$$

I tried to avoid recommending an oil.. http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_em...ult/alfred.gif


:)


So far.. everything we have seen.. Mobil1 is not the one you want. Remember this: Porsche sells the rights to recommend products for their vehicles. How do you think Continental landed the "factory" recommended tire!! LOL


B

Availability of 40W can be an issue for some, but try Race or Speed Shops, they will usually have what you need. Another source, one I use, is the local distributor. They'll usually have a City Desk and do individual sales, usually lower than retail, just check for phone listings in your area.

Also, there are many internet sources for motor oil and it's easy to get exactly what you need. Since an oil change is a pre-planned event, using the net makes perfect sense - that's where I get all my motorcycle oil.

:cheers:

Napa, walmart and auto zone both carried 10w40 and a couple had 5w40 in various brands including, dare I say it, mobil 1. I still like castrol syntec

I'm running the M1, 10w30 right now. The car runs a little hotter than before. I do not know what the previous owner had in it.
My next change will be to the 10w40. Not sure which type yet.... but you can probably bet I'll buy it on sale.

I would get that 10-30 out sooner rather than later.

Hey, I'm all for getting stuff on sale, I'm as miserly as they come - I do not have the first dollar I ever made... but I do have the second ;)

But, the right oil is more important than saving a couple bucks in the short run.

Without pointing at you, it always amazes me how people will throw top dollar after the Flavor-of-the-Month Bling, Go-Fast part or Tires and then try to save $10 on something really important like oil, plugs or anti-freeze.

Save a buck where you can, but put priority on using the right oil(s). In the long run, that'll save more than a few $$.

:cheers:

so i guess a general consensus is castrol syntec is the oil of choice? That one i did see in a 10w-40 5 quart jug for $20 at walmart. Also since i also changed the oil filter during my motor flush would i have to get a new filter when i do my 500 mile oil change or can i leave the one i just replaced still in there?

Btw I use Valvoline 5W-30 synthetic on my civic si, but just thought that mobil 1 would be better for the porsche since that's what it says in the rear trunk. This weekend i'm changing plugs and fuel filter. Bosch iridium/platinum fusion, and napa fuel filter.

If you want to save more take a look for the $10 off rebate from Mobil. They're running a deal until the end of the month for $10 back on 5 quarts of Mobil 1. You can only send in two rebates. If you still have your receipts from Walmart you could potentially get $20 back from Mobil 1.

http://mail-in-rebate-forms.blogspot.com/2009/04/mobil-rebate-offers.html

I just bought my Mobil 1 from Kragen's and took advantage of a deal where you buy 4 get 1 free. Then I got this rebate deal on top of that! :p

Kirk

oh nice thanks, does this apply for the 5 quart jugs or do i need to buy 5 individual quarts?

I think Continental landed its OEM fitment like everyone else: submit tires to Porsche for testing, implement improvements required by Porsche to qualify for N rating. Mobil 1 is factory fill for every new Porsche, Viper, AMG MBZ , & Corvette since 1984. Always think twice before second guessing OEM engineers.

I buy only Michelin tires

How about I grew up 15min from Mobil 1 headquarters and know for a fact that they buy the rights? :) (since 84) I agree Porsche does send out a "min. requirements" sheet to the manufacturers, but that doesn't mean the oil we bought from Mobil1 for a 97 Boxster is the same oil we get now. Matter of fact, we know it is different.

I'm the first person on the planet to point out armchair engineering :cheers: but I also know how this works. Money talks.

2 out of the last 3 Factory Porsche backed ALMS teams I have worked with since 99 have been sponsored by Mobil1. NONE of the engines had Mobil1 in them.

Those people I know from Mobil1? ChemE's who actually help develop the formula's. They also test all the other brands to see what the next guy is doing.

I used Mobil1 up until I found out who PMNA uses for oil analyzing and started having my oil analyzed. Big difference between the different oils. Pick your poison.


B

Question for Lil Bastard,

So is the recommended procedure the following:

1.) Drain current oil
2.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

3.) run for 10-30 minutes, drain

4.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

5.) drive for 500 miles

6.) replace with Castrol and a new filter

Be sure not to let it cool off much between shutting it down and draining it so the accumulated gunk (no pun intended) doesn't have a chance to fall out of suspension.

I would not run it any more than 10 min. with the flush in the system, whatever's not going to come out in 10 min. isn't gonna come out after 30 min. and running with the flush in the system can put a serious dent in the oil's lubricating abilities.

I would drive the car no more than 500 mi. on the interim oil, but I'd probably swap it closer to 200-300 mi. since 500 mi. for me would be a month or more, be sure to include a new filter at each swap.

:cheers:

one very important thing to remember is, every time you change your oil, you've got air in your system..metal parts prefer oil. Sometimes impossible to do, but remember to re-install your oil filter with oil in it. I also like to pour about a quart of oil in my crank with the oil plug off, just to kind of "flush" any remaining gunk.

Not to fuel the oil debate, but as far as I'm concerned, the best stuff you can put in your car is either Redline or Motul.

I would also absolutely get that 10W30 out of your car, both since it's too thin, and since it is diluted with solvents.

Just picked up 2, 5 quart jugs of Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic from Walmart $21 woo! And picking up an STP oil filter from Autozone on monday. Gonna change oil again this Friday only ran about 200 miles on it so far by friday maybe 250 miles so it should be good to go I'll report on how it feels after the 2nd oil change.

LB...

When you say cheap oil, what are we talking about? Synth oil is pricey and we are talking about running it 30 minutes max. And I have not seen many "dino" oils that are either 0W-40 or 5W-40. So do think it is okay to run a Penzoil, Quaker State type oil for that short cycle?

OK... I think a little clarification is in order before I get to your specific question.

I do not advocate flushing the motor as scheduled maintenance or a preventative measure, and I don't want to give the impression that everyone s/b running out and buying motor flush for their cars. Anytime you run solvents through the engine there are risks.

Risks of excess wear, risks of causing leaky seals (because the 'crud' often aids the seals), risks that some of the dislodged deposits would block vital oil passages, etc. And, it is expensive (relatively so with all the oil/filters used etc.).

So, only if the engine needs it - is very high mileage and tired would I personally flush it.

It is not a cure-all and a well maintained engine with proper, regular oil changes using a quality oil won't usually require it. I mean that's one of the main functions of the oil - to capture combustion byproducts and hold them in suspension til the next oil change, something it actually does pretty well.

To just go and do it on the theory that "it couldn't hurt" is a false cost/benefit and the money might well yield more benefit if say it were spent on new plugs, or a coolant change.

All that said, to answer your direct question; if your car meet the criteria, and/or you are willing to assume the costs and risks of performing the flush, then I would say that you want a quality interim oil. Afterall, it's still flowing through your precious M96. 30 min. may not seem like a lot of time, but it takes just a fraction of that to starve a bearing or create permanent wear. When added up, this is a fairly costly procedure, no getting around that, and I cannot tell you what oil you should put in your car.

OTOH, you can always take a sample of the interim oil and run it through a coffee filter to see how much gunk is in it, and if satisfied, always reuse the interim oil in a less cherished (and possibly more robust) daily driver, your lawn mower (probably a lifetime supply given the quantity), etc.

:cheers:

When I buy any car with an older engine and/or I am not sure of the service history, I will do a few quick interval oil changes right out of the gate.

In you case, you might go to Wal Mart and get their syn oil. Run it 3000 miles three times. Assuming you drive a decent amount of miles, this will perform a safe "flush" without the risk of your engine detonating.

I do the same with auto trans. I am NOT a believer in the flush. I simply drain and refill more frequently than the manual says. This also seems to work well.

As Lil said, flushing is NOT without its risks.

:)

i bought my car from a used car dealership and when we got it we were thinking of doing a short interval oil change, It had 76k miles on it. We drove it maybe 500 miles and decided to change the oil and it was black. It seems the dealership hadn't changed the oil in a very long time. We put 10W-30 in it then mobil 1 full synthetic.

When we changed the oil just a few days ago the oil still looked good nice golden brown color. We drained a quart then put in the motor flush, idled, then drained the rest of the oil out and the oil turned black. We put in 10W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic for high mileage vehicles and that's where we are at now. We are going to change the oil out this friday with Castrol Syntec full synthetic 10w-40 and an STP filter I'll let u know when i'm done. I'll also note the color and the look of the oil at the final oil change.

Walmart has an abundance of good oils at a reasonable price if you're going to do this i reccommned shopping there. They had more than Castrol brand 10w-40 but i decided to go with Castrol.

update on motorflush. Just did my short interval oil change at 400 miles. I drained the almost new mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 10w-30 and it still looked new. Still viscous and still yellow-brown color but that's what i was expecting anyways. Took off the filter and the same thing there still looked brand new but changed it all anyways.

A few things i did notice after the motorflush and 10w-30 was the engine temp after coming off the highway and sitting in traffic temps got to about a little over 210 maybe around 215-220 but still within good range.

I drained it all and changed to 10w-40 Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic motor oil, Changed the oil filter and all. Feels just as good however i did notice temps were cooler after coming off of the highway or driving it hard. Feels pretty smooth i like it! This was my experience with motorflush, i guess it's not that popular but if you've got a car that you don't trust was taken care of properly this might be one way to consider to clean your engine.

I decided to take a chance and do it as well. Ran for 10 minutes with the flush on previously clean oil, and it came out black! I'm on my interval oil as we speak (only driven about 20 miles so far).

It's common for the front radiators on the boxster to get filled up with crap. And dead animals.

Unfortunately, to do it right, you need to remove the front bumper cover - because the "radiators" you can see from the outside are actually for the aircon. (I think...)

I've had my car about 4 months, but I haven't gotten around to doing it yet, but my temp stays pretty close to 180.

-james

Ah sorry mate this post is refering to Motorflush for the engine not a radiator flush hehe.

I was responding to your engine temp comments - 210 is too high.

Temp stays close to 180 after switching to 10w-40, the issue wasn't the radiator it was light weight oil with solvents in it breaking down the oil

Dumb question on a month old thread.....out of curiousity, did you only put in ONE quart of Gunk motor flush? If so, how did you drain out only one quart of oil?

My first thought is "10W/30"!?!? Yikes. Isn't that risky? Doesn't the engine require 0 - 5W/40 - 50, even if for a short interval? Don't know, that's why I'm asking. Just seems kinda risky.

You have to drain all the oil out (complete change). Preferably while its still hot as when oil cools it allows the "gunk" to settle out of the oil (not good). You will probably also need to change your oil in another 500 to 1000 miles to get any residuals out of it, just to be safe. I have been considering this, but I have just changed my oil with expensive castro syntech. I will probably use a cheaper 5w40 oil for the 500 to 1000 miles as It will be immediately wasted. Then I will put some castro back in and change it every year or 5k miles.

After all that, it will still be cheaper than going to a "stealership" for their $150 coffee. :D

Lubro Moly has a motor flush, which is supposedly designed for German cars since they are a German chemical company, so take that for what it's worth.

Due to the amount of and effectiveness of the solvents in this products, it's a pretty good idea to follow the flush with a short interval oil change to avoid the long term problems of running with a thinned lubricant.