Did a Motorflush with GUNK motorflush and change oil WOW!

[JFP in PA]

Got to agree with Brad on this one, Mobil 1 products have been going downhill since Exxon bought them in 1999; and the slide accelerated about 4-5 years back after they lost their legal battle over the rights to the “full synthetic” terminology and began reformulating Mobil 1. Group IV products became Group III+, then Group III and so on. Several of their Mobil 1 grades lost their ACEA ratings entirely, others just fell off a cliff in their UOA results. What used to be an industry leading product has become a cash cow for Exxon……………

[chitowndad]

Question for Lil Bastard,

So is the recommended procedure the following:

1.) Drain current oil
2.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

3.) run for 10-30 minutes, drain

4.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

5.) drive for 500 miles

6.) replace with Castrol and a new filter

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by chitowndad

Question for Lil Bastard,

So is the recommended procedure the following:

1.) Drain current oil
2.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

3.) run for 10-30 minutes, drain

4.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

5.) drive for 500 miles

6.) replace with Castrol and a new filter

Be sure not to let it cool off much between shutting it down and draining it so the accumulated gunk (no pun intended) doesn't have a chance to fall out of suspension.

I would not run it any more than 10 min. with the flush in the system, whatever's not going to come out in 10 min. isn't gonna come out after 30 min. and running with the flush in the system can put a serious dent in the oil's lubricating abilities.

I would drive the car no more than 500 mi. on the interim oil, but I'd probably swap it closer to 200-300 mi. since 500 mi. for me would be a month or more, be sure to include a new filter at each swap.

one very important thing to remember is, every time you change your oil, you've got air in your system..metal parts prefer oil. Sometimes impossible to do, but remember to re-install your oil filter with oil in it. I also like to pour about a quart of oil in my crank with the oil plug off, just to kind of "flush" any remaining gunk.

Originally Posted by chitowndad

Question for Lil Bastard,

So is the recommended procedure the following:

1.) Drain current oil
2.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

3.) run for 10-30 minutes, drain

4.) replace with cheap oil and a new filter

5.) drive for 500 miles

6.) replace with Castrol and a new filter

[Cloudsurfer]

Not to fuel the oil debate, but as far as I'm concerned, the best stuff you can put in your car is either Redline or Motul.

I would also absolutely get that 10W30 out of your car, both since it's too thin, and since it is diluted with solvents.

[bigborian]

Just picked up 2, 5 quart jugs of Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic from Walmart $21 woo! And picking up an STP oil filter from Autozone on monday. Gonna change oil again this Friday only ran about 200 miles on it so far by friday maybe 250 miles so it should be good to go I'll report on how it feels after the 2nd oil change.

[rob76turbo]

LB...

When you say cheap oil, what are we talking about? Synth oil is pricey and we are talking about running it 30 minutes max. And I have not seen many "dino" oils that are either 0W-40 or 5W-40. So do think it is okay to run a Penzoil, Quaker State type oil for that short cycle?

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by rob76turbo

LB...

When you say cheap oil, what are we talking about? Synth oil is pricey and we are talking about running it 30 minutes max. And I have not seen many "dino" oils that are either 0W-40 or 5W-40. So do think it is okay to run a Penzoil, Quaker State type oil for that short cycle?

OK... I think a little clarification is in order before I get to your specific question.

I do not advocate flushing the motor as scheduled maintenance or a preventative measure, and I don't want to give the impression that everyone s/b running out and buying motor flush for their cars. Anytime you run solvents through the engine there are risks.

Risks of excess wear, risks of causing leaky seals (because the 'crud' often aids the seals), risks that some of the dislodged deposits would block vital oil passages, etc. And, it is expensive (relatively so with all the oil/filters used etc.).

So, only if the engine needs it - is very high mileage and tired would I personally flush it.

It is not a cure-all and a well maintained engine with proper, regular oil changes using a quality oil won't usually require it. I mean that's one of the main functions of the oil - to capture combustion byproducts and hold them in suspension til the next oil change, something it actually does pretty well.

To just go and do it on the theory that "it couldn't hurt" is a false cost/benefit and the money might well yield more benefit if say it were spent on new plugs, or a coolant change.

All that said, to answer your direct question; if your car meet the criteria, and/or you are willing to assume the costs and risks of performing the flush, then I would say that you want a quality interim oil. Afterall, it's still flowing through your precious M96. 30 min. may not seem like a lot of time, but it takes just a fraction of that to starve a bearing or create permanent wear. When added up, this is a fairly costly procedure, no getting around that, and I cannot tell you what oil you should put in your car.

OTOH, you can always take a sample of the interim oil and run it through a coffee filter to see how much gunk is in it, and if satisfied, always reuse the interim oil in a less cherished (and possibly more robust) daily driver, your lawn mower (probably a lifetime supply given the quantity), etc.