Getting ready to do the dreaded coolant reservoir change
 

Started leaking on me last fall. Was able to get through the winter with the cooler temps but the last drive I took on a warm day it dumped a bunch of coolant out by the right rear wheel well. I've got a new tank on the way from Sunset Imports. Can anyone that has done this recommend any special tools that will make the job any easier?

Get a long set of needlenose pliers and some screw type clamps to replace the stock spring clamps.
and a box of band-aids

Ron

Did this job a couple of weeks ago, invest in hose clamp pliers

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/hcpr20.jpg

Then go for the clamp on the engine side of the firewall through the top, if you stand on the passenger side of car and face towards the front you can reach back with left hand and feel the clamp while holding the end of pliers and hook onto clamp while holding the plier handle in your right ready to squeeze close.

All other connections are via the trunk.

Also no need to drain radiator just reservoir.

Good luck.

Travis, thank you! Just the kind of info I was looking for. Looks like my local Sears has one.

Did you re-use the squeeze clamps on the new res or go with the screw type that j.fro recommends?

I actually re-used my clamps as they were in great shape and really could not see it being easier to try and use a screwdriver to get it off if there were to be a next time.

Also one more tip for you, the three hose connections from the trunk side to the reservoir - make sure to mark them as to where they go or layout as removed, diameter of the inside of hose are different.

Once all clamps off, hoses disconnected and screws are out you will have to pull HARD to remove (make sure all are disconnected)

:cheers:

Got the tank, and hose clamp pliers. Ready to go, but it's raining today and don't have room right now to pull it in the garage. One final question for you Travis, am I going to have to get at this from underneath or can I do everything from above?

Everything is from the top

If you run into any issues and need to chat send me an email tm8545 AT gmail.com and I can give you a ring.

It is really not that hard, just a PITA to reach, but not more than a 5 Beer job :cheers:

Well, it will be a year tomorrow since I did my coolant reservoir change. Thought I'd post up some pics.

Coolant tank part number 996-106-447-08 was $185.74
New cap was $13.56 plus freight
Both were ordered from ****************************************************

Here's the new tank. You can see they do away with the oil dipstick hole in the new one.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1832.jpg

Here's the latest reservoir cap on the left and the old one on the right.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/rennlist/tank14.jpg

Start by disconnecting the trunk light wiring.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1834.jpg

And trunk latch cover

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1835.jpg

Remove the interior pieces.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1836.jpg

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1837.jpg

I started out just removing the rear and side pieces but ended up taking the complete trunk liner out in the end.

These are the remote clamp pliers I ended up buying.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1838.jpg

Disconnecting the individual hoses one at a time and swapping them over to the new tank.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1839.jpg

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1840.jpg

Here is where the remote clamp tool really comes in handy, the hose in the engine compartment.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1844.jpg

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1847.jpg

Just before pulling the old tank, you can see where the coolant was going.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1845.jpg

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1846.jpg

The old tank

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1849.jpg

And the new one

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1851.jpg

Trunk wall feed through plate.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1853.jpg

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1854.jpg

New tank going in, attaching the hoses to feed through.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1855.jpg

Final stretch, new tank in.

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1859.jpg

I got fairly bruised up reaching in to the engine compartment trying to get that one pesky clamp off...

http://www.dhlpilotcentral.com/imgs/986/IMG_1856.jpg


All in all this took me about 3 or 4 hours with plenty of beer breaks. I used the following writeup to help me with the swap. I could knock this out in a couple hours if I had to do it a second time, and it was nice saving what I'm sure would have been hundreds of dollars in labor.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech9-03-2003.htm

Could it be the reservoir hoses?
 

I am following the instructions to replace the reservoir -- thank you for the nice work -- and after removing the carpeting I noticed that most coolant is accumulated under the hoses by the wall feed through plate. Is it possible that the hoses might be the problem?

I do not have the heavy accumulation of coolant as shown in the picture but coolant is spread half way through the trunk with most under the wall feed through plate.

Should I still proceed to remove the tank? Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanassis

Thanassis,
Rent a tank pressure tester from autozone. This will help you find the true source of the leak. If you have coolant in your trunk, the tank likely has a small leak...but it's always nice to verify!

My cooling system recently went and I wish I replaced the tank as well as the pump and thermostat, just so that I dont have to worry about it in the future. The mechanic insisted the tank was fine, but now its allowing condensation through the bleeder so I need to fool around with it.

Does the cooling system need to be completely flushed and bled if you change out the tank? Can you just remove the coolant in the tank and hose and just replace when complete?

sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.

What dipstick? The only dipstick I'm aware of is for oil and has nothing to do with the coolant tank.:confused: They are next to each other and share a thin plastic cover... That is all.

I hope you're working with detailed instructions. :cool:

I think for the older models that still have a dipstick you should make a hole like there was in the old tank mounting plate so that you can re-install the dipstick. That's what I did anyway. The location for it is marked on the new tank.

My bad, I did not realize the newest tanks had a blank where the dipstick used to be. I would definitely keep the dipstick!!!

You can also push into the engine compartment the rubber holding the electric harness and that will give you more room to get your hand in/out to reach to the clamps. I just finish this project a couple of months ago. When you are finished, just pull it back in being careful not to brake any cables... Recommend a long sleeve shirt or nitrale gloves to cover your arms... Good luck.

Hi, does it required a new coolant level sensor by installing new tank?

thanks

No - you can re-use the original sensor as long as it is working OK.

I replaced the sensor as it was relatively inexpensive and it didn't make sense to me not to replace the sensor when I was in there already replacing the tank and cap. I don't think there is a right or wrong, it's more of a personal judgement call.

Hi,
thanks to 986 Ron for this thread and others like Pedros garage, i managed to change the coolant tank my self, it was PITA to work at the engine compartment.....
Did get the clamp plier tool, but it cracked on me the first try, so i managed to use needlenose pliers With a bit of luck...so a tip, don't buy cheap ebay tools and get a quality one instead.
Thanks to this forum and i'll hope none of you gonna work on the coolant reservoir in the future....;)

Dipstick depth is obviously critical. The pic above of the original unit makes it look like the depth is controlled by a boss, which is missing on the replacement. How did you make sure the dipstick was sitting in the same relative position at the end of the day?