Sign of ignition switch failure ???

[CJ_Boxster]

Well the past couple weeks i noticed that when i unlock my car, get into it, start it up, drive away... i notice the red light on my door-lock button is lit but i didnt lock the doors once i was in, and the lite will not turn off until i press "Lock" then "Unlock".

I know my ignition switch is alittle tough to turn sometimes even without the steering lock engauged... is this screwy/quarky issue related to a failing ignition switch?

[Bob O]

I don't know about the lights but the sticky switch is a sign. Mine started doing that and a couple of weeks later it wouldn't turn off without a lot of jiggling the key and swearing at it. The replacement is an easy job. Basically two screws, unplug and replace. Lots of other gremlins can appear as the switch gets more worn, so you might want to replace it before things get worse.

Bob

[CJ_Boxster]

Thanks for the input Bob. Ill try to pick one up soon... Which is better, the black or the white switch?

[Norminhouston]

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster

Well the past couple weeks i noticed that when i unlock my car, get into it, start it up, drive away... i notice the red light on my door-lock button is lit but i didnt lock the doors once i was in, and the lite will not turn off until i press "Lock" then "Unlock".

I know my ignition switch is alittle tough to turn sometimes even without the steering lock engauged... is this screwy/quarky issue related to a failing ignition switch?

Probably the switch is going bad. I ordered a spare the other day from ********************************AZ for $10.92. Nice to have a spare because sooner or later.....

Norm

[argil]

In June or July I began to have similar issues: headlights were dim, AC wouldn't work or would only operate at low speed fan, no control, etc. Finally hit on the ignition switch. Replaced the electrical switch component (behind the mechanical key switch / steering wheel lock) and fixed ALL the problems I had. Easy to do but difficult to get to due to the contortionist requirements and old eyes that don't focus at the distances involved. Nevertheless I did it!

Dissecting the old switch revealed only minor 'issues': seems the plastic shell was somewhat twisted and slightly cracked. Evidently this resulted in poor contacts as the switch was activated which caused intermittent operation of the various circuits. Replacing the switch solved that.

On other blogs I've read that the mechanical switch should be replaced too. I wouldn't agree at this time since replacing the electrical component (it was replaced with a black body switch btw) seemed to improve the overall mechanical action of the key switch too. I personally think the torque action from the steering wheel puts stress on the mechanical component which isn't healthy for the mechanical key switch and maybe the electrical switch as well. Just my 2 cents on the item. But definatly replace the electrical switch. Everything I've read indicates it only gets worse until you can't start the car, remove the key, etc. All bad things.

[Bob O]

I think there's only one switch, the part number is 4A0-905-849-B (which is an Audi part number), and it's black. Go here http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/ignitionswitchreplacement for a good how-to on replacing it. REMEMBER... you need to have your radio code before disconnecting the battery.

Bob