'98/'99 boxster

[jreissenweber1]

thank you all for your replies.

Sorry about the 'ticking time bomb', I must confess to TMR - too much reading as I have garnered that 2001-2005 failure was 8-10% whereas the '98/'99 was close to 1% and I really don't like surprises.

So water pump for sure. Add a low temp thermostat as well?

Tires yes (I'll leave that discussion for another day as I see multiple opinions on specific make/model).

Brakes - check of course, any reason to upgrade?

I've read about deep sump kits for oil - good idea to add as well?

And talking of oil, should I attempt to keep the same as was being run or switch to (Mobil 1 - what)?

Lastly, anything specific on suspension?

Thank you all again.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[78F350]

Add a low temp thermostat as well? Yes.

Brakes - check of course, any reason to upgrade? No.

I've read about deep sump kits for oil - good idea to add as well? For a street car? No significant benefit. On the track with track tires, Yes.

And talking of oil, should I attempt to keep the same as was being run or switch to (Mobil 1 - what)? We love "what is the best oil" threads! Go ahead start a new one. or search and read the gazillion posts that we already have on the subject.

Lastly, anything specific on suspension? You can probably learn a lot from the posts that came up from "Speedyspaghetti" trying to sort out his wobbly steering and vibration: 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - Search Results

Rear trailing arms ( aka track arm, rear control arm...) often start to rattle over small bumps when they wear out. Pretty simple to replace and cost roughly $200 each. Install new rear control arms

On two of about twelve 986s I've bought the rear suspension brackets were cracked by the toe adjustment. I think it's more common on the earlier cars, 97-99 and was reinforced in later years. Replacing the rear suspension bracket

[old911doc]

I have three '97 Boxsters, mileage at acquisition ranging from 17,000 to 165,000. My suggestion, for a car under 200,000 miles, largely LEAVE IT ALONE! That is, mostly I would address issues only as they become symptomatic, i.e. leaking oil from spark plug tubes, intermixing or leaking oil and coolant from oil cooler O- rings, smoking exhaust related to air-oil separator failure, etc.
The one exception I'd suggest, for any Boxster that might get rained on, replace the factory plastic box for the immobilizer module ( under the driver's seat, of all places) with the aftermarket waterproof one from ECUdoctors in Miami. It's $150 and takes about an hour to install ( requires removing driver's seat, kinda heavy to lift). While you're at it, drill a few 10mm holes in the floor to drain water should it get in the car. This project is easier than changing oil as it does not require lifting the car.
Also, I'd consider a new set of tires , regardless of tread depth, based on the age of the tires, seven or eight years max.
An issue that old Boxsters often develop is disintegration of the lightweight 'foam' covering the movable vent doors inside the heater box behind the dash. The fragments blow out the various air outlets on the dash. The repair requires disassembling the dash practically down to the firewall, disconnecting the coolant lines to the heater core, discharging and later vacuuming and recharging the a/c. Only a few hand tools are needed, but an A/C vacuum pump and gauges are needed to recharge the opened system. With the heater box out, the doors can be covered with tape (I use fiberglass cloth and resin) to replace the crumbling foam. Material cost less than $100.
Otherwise, as you would upon acquiring any older used car, you would replace all the fluids, inspect the brake pad thicknesses and replace pads and discs as needed.
My opinion is, a Box is no more challenging to keep up than anything else, and a darn sight more worthwhile.
And, finally, JOIN THE PCA! The best money you'll ever spend on a Porsche.