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Old 08-04-2006, 01:10 PM   #1
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Question First DIY oil change...

Seeing as how the oil changes at the dealership run around $200 in Dallas/Ft. Worth, I'm going to attempt my own oil change. A couple questions.

I've read a few posts, and I'm not sure. The weather here is generally HOT, with an occasional below-freezing day in the winter. My last oil was M1 0w40 from the dealership. Should I stick with this one?

Oil filter. What parts to I need to buy? The actual filter, o-ring, AND the assembly?

Please advise.

Paul
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:14 PM   #2
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Here is a link to the parts:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code =OilFilterBoxsterCarreraCayenne&Category_Code=986m aint

I'd stick with the Mobil 1 0W-40
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:16 PM   #3
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Angry More money?

will i need the uber-fancy oil filter wrench shown below the pic of the air filters?
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:17 PM   #4
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Here is some good info on Mobil 1 products:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1.aspx
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopoopaul
will i need the uber-fancy oil filter wrench shown below the pic of the air filters?

Do a search on this, you will find some good advice too!
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:20 PM   #6
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I have found ********************************AZ an excellent place to buy filters. www.************************************************************
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:28 PM   #7
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Smile Oil wrench, and drain pan

You will need a wrench that fits the filter housing. You don't have to buy the Hazet tool, there are others that fit. You should use a torque wrench for the housing and drain plug.

Get a good oil pan. Oil comes out fast, and there is a lot of it. I just did my first one, my pan barely kept up with the flow, and it splashed a bit. Cleanup is a small price to pay for the saving and satisfaction for doing it yourself, IMO.
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:54 AM   #8
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Poopoo: Here's a good link that talks about changing your oil. Re the filter wrench/tool, you can pick up a "cup" style tool that works perfectly at Napa. Of course, you'll get lots of opinions about oil viscosity...for my $, unless you're going to drive in winter/cold, I'd go w/ the 15W50

renntech oil change thread

Also, Sunset has a sale on oil filters right now.

sunset wholesale parts
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Old 08-06-2006, 06:44 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by rodsnhawgs
Poopoo: Here's a good link that talks about changing your oil. Re the filter wrench/tool, you can pick up a "cup" style tool that works perfectly at Napa. Of course, you'll get lots of opinions about oil viscosity...for my $, unless you're going to drive in winter/cold, I'd go w/ the 15W50

renntech oil change thread

Also, Sunset has a sale on oil filters right now.

sunset wholesale parts

I don't know if 15W50 is an approved Porsche oil, maybe it is. But, I have to think that this viscosity with reduce your MPG's by 1 or 2 ticks too. Just a hunch. This viscocity is not an "energy conserving" one like 0W40 is.
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:13 AM   #10
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M1 0w-40 is not an energy conserving oil. I think you are correct in that it will yield a very slightly lower fuel consumption than M1 15W-50. Not sure if this difference will noticiable however.

Having said that, the 15W-50 used to be an approved oil and factory fill until 0-40 came out.

I think either oil is quite fine. If it were me and I was in Texas, I would use the 15W-50 to handle the wretched heat you all get there.
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:01 AM   #11
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Richard, your're right, Mobil 1 0W40 is not an "energy conserving" blend. I think any oil above a 40 is not one. My past exprience shows a 1-2 MPG drop from a 10W30 or 5W30 vs. a 10W40 in a non-Porsche engine.
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmussatti
Richard, your're right, Mobil 1 0W40 is not an "energy conserving" blend. I think any oil above a 40 is not one. My past exprience shows a 1-2 MPG drop from a 10W30 or 5W30 vs. a 10W40 in a non-Porsche engine.

Interesting! Was the 10W-40 a synthetic oil or DINO?
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Old 08-06-2006, 10:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucelee
Interesting! Was the 10W-40 a synthetic oil or DINO?
Not a synthetic.
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Old 08-06-2006, 01:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bmussatti
Not a synthetic.
My guess is that was the major reason for the change in MPG. Synthetics generally will yield 1-2 MPG better than DINO.

Just a guess.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopoopaul
Seeing as how the oil changes at the dealership run around $200 in Dallas/Ft. Worth, I'm going to attempt my own oil change. A couple questions.

I've read a few posts, and I'm not sure. The weather here is generally HOT, with an occasional below-freezing day in the winter. My last oil was M1 0w40 from the dealership. Should I stick with this one?

Oil filter. What parts to I need to buy? The actual filter, o-ring, AND the assembly?

Please advise.

Paul
Paul,

yes, M1 0W40 is good for that wide range.

You will need:

1- 9 quarts of oil
2- A really big catch pan to catch the old 9 quarts of oil
3- OEM or Mahle replacement OF paper cartridge
4- O-ring
5- copper crush ring for drain plug
6- filter wrench. Pennzoil "code 5" - $4 at Strauss auto, fits 3/8" ratchet
7- Some way to get the car in the air, and reasonably level. I use rhino ramps and to heck with truly level.

Tip: pre-fill the OF cannister 1/3 of the way up the side with new oil before reinstalling.

Grant
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Old 08-07-2006, 08:51 AM   #16
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One note... buy 10 quarts of oil, not 9. The spec for filling with a complete oil drain and filter change, is 9.25 quarts. I just did a change on mine, filled it with 9.25 quarts, and its sitting exactly on full.

It was perfectly level when I drained it, and it drained for about 1/2 an hour. If you don't get all the oil out, I guess you could get by with 9 quarts.
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