08-06-2016, 02:31 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: BayArea
Posts: 45
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Axle Boots, Disconnect What?
So, looking at the job, you would just need to disconnect the UJ from the Trans, then remove it, right? Then slide the new boots down to the wheel end, and replace the trans end after re-attaching the UJ and torquing it back to the trans? No Need to remove the axle bolt at the wheel, correct?
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08-06-2016, 07:11 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSSS
So, looking at the job, you would just need to disconnect the UJ from the Trans, then remove it, right? Then slide the new boots down to the wheel end, and replace the trans end after re-attaching the UJ and torquing it back to the trans? No Need to remove the axle bolt at the wheel, correct?
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Incorrect. The boots slide over the axle, ahead of the CV joints, so to replace them, the axle comes out of the car, and the CV joints come off. You will find there is little to no room to do what you describe while it is still in the car.
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Last edited by JFP in PA; 08-06-2016 at 07:14 AM.
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08-07-2016, 07:37 AM
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#3
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Ben-Auto-Design
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: French Riviera
Posts: 827
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You don't need to remove the axle from the car, and in fact can slide both boots out while removing only one CV joint.
You'll need to lift the car fairly high to make it easier.
Remove the bracings and midpipes, the just unbolt the inner CV joints.
Pop the end cap (hammer and punch), remove the clip on the axle, and the joint should slide out.
If it doesn't, you'll need a puller.
Be careful to use quality boot clamps, or the grease will sling out!
If you don't have access to a lift, you'll have a hard time doing it on the car. If you can take them out, do it.
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Last edited by Ben006; 08-07-2016 at 07:47 AM.
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08-08-2016, 05:38 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,497
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I wouldn't want to do them on the car, especially if you are trying to clean out old grease etc. iI's a messy job! Besides, you might want to consider pulling the hubs and doing wheel bearings at the same time!
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08-20-2016, 11:21 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: BayArea
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben006
You don't need to remove the axle from the car, and in fact can slide both boots out while removing only one CV joint.
You'll need to lift the car fairly high to make it easier.
Remove the bracings and midpipes, the just unbolt the inner CV joints.
Pop the end cap (hammer and punch), remove the clip on the axle, and the joint should slide out.
If it doesn't, you'll need a puller.
Be careful to use quality boot clamps, or the grease will sling out!
If you don't have access to a lift, you'll have a hard time doing it on the car. If you can take them out, do it.
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Followed this exact procedure, would add, remove the sway bar. Slow going, but if you keep at it, it works. UJ, outers were a bit gummy, dry, inners were better lubed, Mechanically, everything seemed fine, More than ample room, once you remove the mids and Sway bar, just pulled the outer boots down the shaft. Don't forget your clamps!
Last edited by SilverSSS; 08-21-2016 at 08:44 AM.
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08-21-2016, 04:58 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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+1 with Ben's description. I've done both this way. The clip mentioned is a external snap ring. Use a good tool it's a heavy snap ring and if it gets stretched replace it also.
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2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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08-21-2016, 06:53 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,551
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Doing it the car takes way too long, it is much quicker if you just pull the axle and do it on the bench. In the shop, time is literally money, so doing both correctly and quickly is essential.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
Last edited by JFP in PA; 08-21-2016 at 06:56 AM.
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08-21-2016, 07:12 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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If your charging that time to the customer. for a DIY guy?
The big problem from point is the average DIY guy is the torque spec for the axle nut. Unless you rent or borrow the heavy torque wrench the job suddenly get 2-4 times as expensive. 50-400 and 100-500 ft/lb torque wrenches are pricey for the average joe to just have sitting around for one or 2 uses.
__________________
2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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08-21-2016, 09:47 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsceash
If your charging that time to the customer. for a DIY guy?
The big problem from point is the average DIY guy is the torque spec for the axle nut. Unless you rent or borrow the heavy torque wrench the job suddenly get 2-4 times as expensive. 50-400 and 100-500 ft/lb torque wrenches are pricey for the average joe to just have sitting around for one or 2 uses.
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Don't need no stinkin torque wrench. Take the torque spec, 340 and divide by your real weight (no cheating). That gives you a distance measurement in feet. Now take a long breaker bar and mark out calculated distance. With the breaker bar parallel to the floor, put a foot on the mark and stand on the bar with all your weight.
There, human torque wrench.
Torque=lbs x feet
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1989 Porsche 944
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1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
1993 Saab 9000
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08-22-2016, 11:24 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: BayArea
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san rensho
Don't need no stinkin torque wrench. Take the torque spec, 340 and divide by your real weight (no cheating). That gives you a distance measurement in feet. Now take a long breaker bar and mark out calculated distance. With the breaker bar parallel to the floor, put a foot on the mark and stand on the bar with all your weight.
There, human torque wrench.
Torque=lbs x feet
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Love it! lol.
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