Ims guardian drain plug...

[Jake Raby]

In an instance where the plug has a seep after install, the worst thing that can be done is to tighten it further.

This will stretch the threads of the sump plate, and/ or the sensor, making the leak worse in most every case.

The proper method is to break torque on the unit, and re- torque it to 19# again.

Theirs lots of variability in the drain plug surfaces of stock sump plates. The stock drain plug is very soft (why the internal hex strips so easily) and able to conform to these deficiencies better, so the stock plug will mask some of those issues.

Another variable is the distance between the inner and outer portions of the sump plate drain recess. In some cases the outermost tips of the hex portion of the sensor will contact the innermost portion of the sump plate. If this happens at all, the tightening load will be shared between the two surfaces, and the sensor will leak. In that case the offending portion of the hex can be easily filed away.

If anyone has a persistent issue, and the unit is under warranty, we will machine your sump plate free of charge. If it's outside of warranty then it's a nominal fee and a fast service.

The same goes with sensors, if one of them leaks, and the unit is under warranty (1 year from purchase date, proof of purchase required) it will be replaced free of charge. We require a deposit to send a replacement plug out, which will be refunded once we receive the old plug back for evaluation.

Reports of leaks are not common, we receive one every couple of months. If anyone has any questions or issues, PM me here on the board and I'll connect you to someone that can help.

Over torque is the common cause of sensor issues, and the same held true for the LN Engineering magnetic drain plug. Installers that are not familiar with these products, or do not pay attention to instructions, and follow them, can create, or compound the issues.

As JFP mentions, distortions of the sump plate threads and sealing surface is the root of all evil with this. An over torque of the drain plug (even by another installer in the past with a stock drain plug) will stretch the sump plate threads and will require an insert in the threads for corrective action. We can do this for owners as well, if necessary.

The aluminum crush ring works in most all applications, but in some instances, where the sump plate has an issue, a copper crush ring found at a local parts store for a few cents will make a good band aid.

We have no problem assisting anyone who has an issue with this, and standing behind the product.

[cnavarro]

If someone has a leaky LN drain plug, we'll replace it free of charge. A few even have broken after years of service and we've warrantied them no questions asked. If we aren't given a chance to take care of a problem or are even notified that one exists, we can't fix it.

[tommy583]

Originally Posted by cnavarro

If someone has a leaky LN drain plug, we'll replace it free of charge. A few even have broken after years of service and we've warrantied them no questions asked. If we aren't given a chance to take care of a problem or are even notified that one exists, we can't fix it.

Well that's a great offer. I was going to contact you, but I bought the first drain plug through my Indy. So i didn't have a receipt for the part.

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by cnavarro

If someone has a leaky LN drain plug, we'll replace it free of charge. A few even have broken after years of service and we've warrantied them no questions asked. If we aren't given a chance to take care of a problem or are even notified that one exists, we can't fix it.

My LN Guardian plug is leaking slightly as well. Only since my last oil change. The first 2 changes after installing there were no leaks. The car is in winter storage right now.

Would using 2 aluminum washers be of benefit in this situation? If not, how can I go about getting a replacement plug?

Thanks

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by paulofto

My LN Guardian plug is leaking slightly as well. Only since my last oil change. The first 2 changes after installing there were no leaks. The car is in winter storage right now.

Would using 2 aluminum washers be of benefit in this situation? If not, how can I go about getting a replacement plug?

Thanks

It sounds like you should break torque, spin the crush washer 1/3 turn and retorque.
Double stacking crush washers sometimes helps to overcome sump
Plate deficiencies, or in the instances where the sensor contacts the inner diameter of the sump plate with the outer tip of its hex head.

A replacement sensor is available through my company.

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

It sounds like you should break torque, spin the crush washer 1/3 turn and retorque.
Double stacking crush washers sometimes helps to overcome sump
Plate deficiencies, or in the instances where the sensor contacts the inner diameter of the sump plate with the outer tip of its hex head.

A replacement sensor is available through my company.

Thanks Jake. When I get the car ready in the spring I will try the 1/3 turn trick. In the mean time it has been hovering around -20 C (-4 F) up here for the past week so it will be a couple of months before I break the car out of the deep freeze. Which makes me think; could the sub zero temperature cause the plug to 'unseal' slightly and allow a small leak? Just wondering since i know aluminum can expand and contract.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by paulofto

Thanks Jake. When I get the car ready in the spring I will try the 1/3 turn trick. In the mean time it has been hovering around -20 C (-4 F) up here for the past week so it will be a couple of months before I break the car out of the deep freeze. Which makes me think; could the sub zero temperature cause the plug to 'unseal' slightly and allow a small leak? Just wondering since i know aluminum can expand and contract.

Any temperature changes and cycles can do that, given the opportunity.