Another audio upgrade thread
What the heck, it's been done before but those threads are buried so why not do it again.
The old Nokia POS dash speakers are already replaced with infinity reference, there's a current thread on that. I did mine a little differently using the old Nokia frames and connectors as the base of that installation, to each his own. The new head unit is last years Lanzar SNV695B. 80 watts per channel, 4 channels, on sale for $189, I quite like it. A boss 2000W amp goes in the frunk to drive an Infinity 860W reference subwoofer in a band pass enclosure. The 200 watt amp will only drive 1000 watts due to the 860's impedance. Infinity 62.11i 6 1/2 inch speakers go into the doors and will be driven at 80W each. This should be plenty of volume and thump for a little Box. Here are some pics: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1440723053.jpg Modified stock bracket to support the new double DIN, Pink Styrofoam house insulation wrapped in lack electrical tape on the base of the bracket supports the back of the unit http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1440723273.jpg A screw hole is added to anchor the unit to the modified bracket (circle) and a similar front support (Arrow) covered in Mier's insulation tape from Home Depot - Looks great. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1440723354.jpg The final installation - note the new position of the AC controls http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1440723418.jpg I fired up the sub using my home stereo and almost took out the glass in my book case. :D More pics as more is installed |
Where are you putting the sub? In the frunk? I don't think my wife would go for that :eek: That spot is reserved for her luggage in my car :mad:
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Since the frunk is sealed, are you planning to port to the cabin somehow?
If not, it's just going to rattle like crazy. ;) http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/44815-stereo-subwoofer-question.html |
Unlike higher frequencies, low frequency sound passes through most materials fairly readily which is why aside from their size, subs end up in trunks. We've all experienced this at stop lights when we get to enjoy someone else's subs from the inside of their car to the inside of ours. What we miss in that case is all if the mid and high frequencies. Those have to be generated in the cabin. It's not optimal but I don't think that communication between the air in the trunk and the air in the cabin is critical for good performance, meaning the windows will still rattle at low frequencies. Having said all that there's bound to be a loss of performance so its a bit of a gamble. I'll report out after it's running and let the forum know how well it worked. As for luggage, I'm looking for a connector so I can put a handle on the sub and make it removable. Particlewave, any ideas on a connector? I was thinking a standard 3 prong might work, but it will look like something Jed Clampet came up with.
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I would use banana plugs for the connector.
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-gold-recessed-5-way-banana-speaker-terminal-cup-rectangle--260-309 |
Those trunk subs are annoying and disrespectful to everyone outside of the car.
Do you really want your German sports cars to sound like some getto car? As far a a connector, you can use any connector including standard 3 prong electrical connectors. Just make sure no one tries to plug it into a wall outlet! |
Actually, most cars have them in unsealed rear trunks with nothing but some upholstery foam between them and the passenger cabin. Not like our cars at all. I don't think you're going to like it and it's going to be farting air through the seal.
What size is that sub? I kind of like what this person did, but I'd stick with my smaller 8" kicker and 0.5 cubic foot enclosure. Best of luck! :) http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...FD08CF1AF2.jpg |
I must chime in to say skip the sub for a number of reasons;
1) There is no way it can effectively delivery bass to the cabin 2) That "2000watt" amp is more than likely less than 200 watts. You can go ahead and TRY... but you will not like the results, and will have wasted your time. Focus on getting what you can out of the door speakers. |
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Yes, but he is talking about mounting a sub in front trunk which has no air flow to the cabin. ;)
You'll get some sympathetic vibration frequencies through the metal of the car, but minimal sound/pressure waves. |
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Dopey is the operative word. |
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http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1440855985.jpg The result was the sub and amp combination worked very well together. It was impressive with the hood open. While it could be felt inside the car, it made little difference in the overall sound quality over the dash speakers alone and is not worth having in the car. The trunk latch was buzzing like mad (I think it would eventually wear out / break) and there was much more bass response outside the car than inside. I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble of making things pretty or running wires to the frunk, this would have been a disaster. As it is I got to do a little design and play with my table saw. Thanks P-wave for your comments, they drove me to test this before doing a full install. Back to the drawing board. |
I'm with the old geezers.
There used to be a term back in the day that meant something in the world of sound reproduction . . . High Fidelity. It has lost all meaning in a world where loud obnoxious thumping bass is construed as 'good sound'. It's too bad all that engineering that effectively produces a rolling 4 wheeled sub woofer can't be better used to produce truly clean, high definition sound across the whole audible band rather than just a concentrated peak below 100hz. Just an opinion from an old cane shaker. |
Maybe you should shake your cane at yourself :dance:
Adding a sub to the frunk is an exercise in futility, but nothing ventured, nothing gained I like a good car stereo, its I just don't like listening to someone else's car when I am in mine, or worse feeling some thumping from another car when they are stopped at a light next to me or when they drive by All seriousness aside Add rear speakers if you don't have them. They make the single biggest difference Add a sub to the passenger seat area. They are several threads about this BTW, how is that Lanzar SNV695B? Looks pretty good, especially for the price. Is the NAV any good? |
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The Lanzar is amazing for the price. 80 watts per channel into 4 channels. Really brought the Infinity replacement dash speakers to life. The only slap I have is that it has run out of memory and rebooted twice on me now during navigation. The GUI is intuitive, the maps are updatable and currently contain many smaller businesses. Even with the reboot issue I'd likely buy it over the more expensive units I was ready to buy. One other thing it has that I didn't know I needed but is now imperative for any future unit is the ability to tilt the screen in small increments. This allows you to eliminate glare in any lighting condition. |
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No harm in trying ;)
I've seen several attempts on this forum over the years and they all had the same result. Now you can build the box between the seats. :D |
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