3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)
 

Yeah, I know...

I've had my car for 4 years and have never had keyless entry.
The best thing for the rest of you to do is to buy an OEM transmitter and have the dealer code the car, but I've put it off for 4 years because it wasn't worth the $300-$400 that the whole repair would cost. That, and you all know how I love to tinker, so...

I bought this unit off of eBay for $12. It is simply a series of relays that are controlled by the transmitter/receiver.

Set Kit Universal Car Remote Central Entry Lock Locking Safety | eBay

Below is the wiring diagram for the door lock mechanism. As noted in the photo, when you turn the key in the door lock, you are simply grounding either the lock or unlock wire, telling the immobilizer to arm/disarm.
Brown = ground.
Brown with White stripe = lock.
Brown with Red stripe = unlock.

What we want to do is tap into the lock and unlock wires so that we can remotely ground them, locking or unlocking the car. Tracing the wires back, they are easily accessible from the entry point right above the fuse box (remove fuse box cover by removing the 4 Philips screws).


The 3rd party unit uses remotely controlled relays to perform this same function (the cars system is safe since the 3rd party receiver is isolated and the relays just act like switches - same as the door lock).

This picture is a mess, but shows how simple the unit is. Basically, I just fed ground to both relays (by shorting them to ground) and when they are activated by the receiver, they switch the ground to the either of the 2 outputs.
The unit also has outputs for a flashing light to indicate when the car is successfully locked or unlocked (side marker lights?). I have not hooked these up yet, but fuses A3 and A4 (for the side markers) are right there, so will soon.
Lastly, it has relay outputs for a trunk actuator (both + and - ...I think ours is negative actuated, just like the door lock microswitches).

So, that's it!

4 wires; lock signal, unlock signal, 12V+ and ground (will add the trunk actuator and side marker flash later).
After finding the right wires, it took 20 minutes to install and now I have remote arming capability. Works just like OEM ;)

Like I said, the best route is to go OEM, but I have time and am bored. This works great, though. Have not tested range, but works from at least 25 feet away so far. Also, the shape of the fob is just right to fit a crest on, so it will replace my leather keychain soon.

You guys can field the new guys that don't get my insanity ;)

Video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghsv5X1UW4U&feature=youtu.be

Staying tuned!

I think one could reprogram the IC on the circuit board using a chip programmer and the code from your working remote but the little oscillator in the case I am not sure how to match that to the car. I only had to put new switches on mine to get it work.

Video of me playing with it... ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghsv5X1UW4U&feature=youtu.be

Lol I bought this, this week and was going to do it this weekend!!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...ec53c1f3a5.jpg

Great minds! :D
The instructions are a bit wonky, but the install is pretty straightforward once you decipher the gibberish. Main points are that both receive a negative (ground) signal and don't get the lock/unlock wires reversed. ;)

Before anyone asks, I didn't do step-by-step instructions because I figured that anyone with enough skill to do this would find what they needed in post #1. ;)

If I can clear anything up, please ask!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429410071.jpg

This is the one I got. I was going to do trunk and frunk too, but I figure I experiment first.

$14 eh, I figure I can play with it.

Since I'm behind particlewave a day I may as well not fall behind any more. lol :D

I approach mine a little differently as most the items could be accessed under the drivers seat. besides after crawling under the dash yesterday to do the ignition switch I'm a little sore. :rolleyes:


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429477470.jpg

Be sure to unsnap the harness to the seat but keep it plugged in and wired as you do not want the Airbag light to come on after everything is put back together. You can only erase and reset the code if you have the proper hookup and not some generic unit. There is enough length in the harness to set the seat just outside the car.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429478423.jpg

For this door lock system, as they may be different for each system I think I only tapped 5 wires and grounded three wires...

for a total of eight wires connected.

Power- Red to I cheated and grabbed the lead to the immobilizer
Ground- black - to the existing ground lug shown in pic
Ground- yellow - to the existing ground lug shown in pic
Ground- yellow/black - to the existing ground lug shown in pic
Lock signal White wire - to small Brown/white on left side immobilizer
Opening signal- White/Black to small Brown/red on left side immobilizer
turn signal output - Brown wire to small Black/white wire on right side immobilizer
turn signal output - Brown wire to small Black/green wire on right side immobilizer

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429480774.jpg


I just hooked up the door locks and the light output so I can see the turn signal light flash when the doors lock or unlock

Here it is installed...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429479140.jpg

here is my remote..

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429479475.jpg

As particlewave mentioned this system uses a neg ground for the signal. as you can see there are a couple of ways to configure the system...http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429481244.jpg


This is the way I wired this product.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429481323.jpg

So what was basically this ....

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429481762.jpg


I cut the excess wires and this is what is left over to connect...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429481868.jpg

Notice I left the trunk wire in case I want to wire the trunk release at a later date.

Please note that these wires were for a 98 and your model year wire colors will vary

If we can get one of those, to work with one of these....
3 Buttons Remote Flip Folding Key Shell Case Replace for Porsche Cayenne 03 Up | eBay

That would be something!

Thats funny, the one shell is more expensive than the remote door lock system!

I tell you though the Cayenne key is a monster. Wish i still had mine. but I had to carry the key by itself.

True, but only about a 10th of a real one.

Just wondering how terribly expensive would it be to have a new circuit board made for a key fob like that though

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Very nice! I considered the same since all of the wiring needed is right there, but didn't want to have to take the seat out. I thought I read that it was a pain to get out, but I guess I should have looked in the Bentley.

I agree. I have a Cayenne flip key and ended up shelving it. It is far too bulky to have sticking out of the ignition and just feels awkward.

:cheers:Well, it was only an idea!:cheers:

I love the flip key idea...jus feels wrong in the ignition.
Would be even nicer to incorporate the keyless entry electronics into it. ;)

They look similar in size and shape to "healthservices" fobs.

It's 4am and I was bored, so I moved the receiver next to the immobilizer, same as yours. I decided that I wanted the turn signal flash and the trunk opener, so went ahead and moved it.
The signal flash is definitely nice! :D

If only I could fix this darn insomnia...

Cool! Is your box the later model style with electric trunk release or cable?

It has the cable pull levers, but I did verify today that it has the rear trunk actuator. I think I'll leave it be for now. I seriously doubt I'd ever use it, but nice to know its there if I change my mind. ;)

I think the wire for the actuator is also at the immobilizer unit. mine does not have the actuator

Yep ;)
It's the blue wire with black stripe.

Also, for those following, up to 2000 models will have the same lock/unlock wires (brown/white and brown/red) AND turn signal wires (black/white and black/green) at the immobilizer.
2001 and up will have the same lock/unlock wires at the immobilizer, but not the turn signal wires.

I don't really like my crest idea :confused:
It's a bit too big and maybe a bit tacky, but it's on there now. I think I'll use one of the tiny key crests (or nothing) on my second fob and use that one.
I guess it's no bigger than the key chain crest...

It does not look bad. At least in the picture. Funny how something looks great in the pictures, don't look and feel so great in real life.

After holding it in my hand and looking at it for a while, I've decided that I like it. ;)
I would like the crest to be recessed a little more, but that's it.

I carefully traced the outline of the crest onto the fob and used the Dremel to cut out a shallow recess, but the plastic is only a few millimeters thick, so couldn't cut too deep.

Well even thought mine did not have the trunk release actuator in the trunk, it was wired for one!



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342262.jpg

And the actuator is available used for as little as $35 online today

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342071.jpg

But of course if you want to install a less expensive actuator you can too. :cheers:


You will most likely need to use a relay for at least the aftermarket actuator as it draws a few amps

Nice ;)

For $35, may as well go OEM. The trunk relay in my keyless entry unit is rated at 40 amps, so no trouble there. I still haven't done anything with it yet, though.

I wished i had a rear trunk actuator. About the only thing that makes me upset on my car. Maybe i need to see if it is wired for one

Takes about 30 seconds to pull down the rear panel to check. [emoji5]

Yeah it was late last night. I had to re locate and re wire some DRL's. I will do it later today for sure.

It's funny how similar and different these door lock systems are. Mine did not have a relay in it and quickly burned up the door lock unit so I installed another door lock unit from another company with the same remote thinking it would be wired and color coded the same...

Nope.

LOL

I used a $8 actuator and a $2 relay.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430600756.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430600781.jpg

So now I have a trunk release. :cool:

I took a look at mine and I do not even have a location set on the bracket for the second cable. Guess I am just unlucky and have to do it old school with the lever.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342071.jpg

If you get the factory actuator be sure the get the bracket as well.

I just piggy back the trunk bypass.

Nice :cool:

I may get around to hooking up the trunk actuator this week. I need a break from headlights, anyway (one more set to do later this week). :)

I ended up cutting and isolating the blue/black wire to the immobilizer just so i dont do any damage to the immobilizer unit itself

So low and behold I do have an actuator. It is a black box with the plunger connected to a solid rod that goes under the metal spoiler motor cover. That connects to the latch where it is connected to the single manual cable release. I have read someone had to take their car into the dealer and have the computer reset to get the trunk release to talk to the keyfob. So my question for you guys would be if after I replace the actuator and the actuator is still not talking to the keyfob through the immobilizer could I install a third party entry system to make the signal bypass the cars system and the actuator work? I heard the actuator actually turn on when I connected a test light but the arm was not moving at all. That made me to believe there is something wrong there. It was cheap enough to buy so why not replace it. So should a third party entry system be able to send a signal to the OEM actuator?

Yes, but most I would assume since you do have the actuator your fob is programed for it already. It just a matter of getting the actuator to work

Sounds like a bad actuator to me.

That is what i am guessing also. Waiting on the replacement to come in.

OK guys need some help now. New actuator came in and installed. It is not moving at all when I hit the trunk button. The light on the dash is illuminating when I hit the button so it is getting a signal from the key. I would much rather install a unit like you guys have if it will send the signal to the actuator for it to work instead of paying a labor hour at the dealership that would cost me way more than the system to go in.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Doors unlocked and you are holding the trunk unlock button down for more than three seconds?