3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)

[MaddogsMotorSports]

worked on the car again yesterday and got it figured out, the little splice clamps i used didnt pierce the wire insulation the whole way. lock/unlock and trunk all work now. thanks for all the help

Originally Posted by particlewave

The wiring for this is the same across all 986 model years.
There should only be one brown/red wire.
There is a brown/red/black wire (brown wire, red stripe, black bands), so make sure you didn't get them mixed up.

[Swhitcomb]

Cool. I had/have mine soldered and wired directly together, and while it would lock and unlock, as soon as the alarm armed, it wouldn’t unlock.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

So I guess I kinda jumped the gun on my keyless working fine because everything works for like 15 seconds after that it wont unlock or lock the doors?? I can stand there and hit the lock unlock buttons and pop the trunk as long as I do it within 15 seconds, after that I have to use my key in the door. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by Swhitcomb

Cool. I had/have mine soldered and wired directly together, and while it would lock and unlock, as soon as the alarm armed, it wouldn’t unlock.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by MaddogsMotorSports

So I guess I kinda jumped the gun on my keyless working fine because everything works for like 15 seconds after that it wont unlock or lock the doors?? I can stand there and hit the lock unlock buttons and pop the trunk as long as I do it within 15 seconds, after that I have to use my key in the door. Any ideas?

Where did you get power for the unit?

[MaddogsMotorSports]

Particlewave I tapped into the big red power to the seat

Originally Posted by particlewave

Where did you get power for the unit?

[particlewave]

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

Particlewave, thanks I will try and switch the power source in the next couple of days and let you know what happens. Thanks again for all the help.

Originally Posted by particlewave

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[MaddogsMotorSports]

So I changed my power sorce to one that is 12v constant and same thing the after 15-20 seconds the keyless remote will not unlock the doors. You can hear the relays in the after market unit clicking but the doors will not unlock however for some reason I can pop the trunk??

Originally Posted by particlewave

There's your problem.
The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds.

In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

[pahanorlando]

I've read this several times, but I am a bit confused. It seems like some users have issues with setting it up, is it because of immobilizer?

Here is what I have. I bought porsche with missing circuit board in the remote. I've figured that since it will cost about $300 at least to get the circuit board and then to get dealership to set it up. I want to get control remote, something like this https://www.amazon.com/FICBOX-Universal-Vehicle-Keyless-Central/dp/B01HB5M5R2/ref=sr_1_42?crid=2OR0S8X8KHDM&keywords=keyless+control+remote&qid=1560636914&s=gateway&sprefix=keyless+control+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-42

Then I'll have to connect some wires to ground, some to constant power, and some to lock/unlock wire. Is that correct? Or there is something more complicate? Also, will I be able to set up my trunk or frunk? I have release cables for trunk and frunk, nothing electronic.

[Anker]

I'm too lazy to dive into it, but I believe it is much more complicated than this. The various systems communicate with one another through the CAN bus on late 986es and before that I also believe that they communicated with a protocol rather than by simply setting voltages on pins.

So the engine will refuse to start unless the immobilizer sends a message over the CAN bus (or earlier bus) that it that it is OK.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Anker

I'm too lazy to dive into it, but I believe it is much more complicated than this. The various systems communicate with one another through the CAN bus on late 986es and before that I also believe that they communicated with a protocol rather than by simply setting voltages on pins.

So the engine will refuse to start unless the immobilizer sends a message over the CAN bus (or earlier bus) that it that it is OK.

Good thought, but CANBUS is in no way involved with the door locks.

[pahanorlando]

Thanks for fast replies guys. So mine is 1998 boxster. If I buy a keyfob that particlewave has on the youtube video and install JUST LIKE he did, will it work?

Or, there is an unknown issue that causes some key fobs to work and some not and its still unknown what the issue is?

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by pahanorlando

Thanks for fast replies guys. So mine is 1998 boxster. If I buy a keyfob that particlewave has on the youtube video and install JUST LIKE he did, will it work?

Or, there is an unknown issue that causes some key fobs to work and some not and its still unknown what the issue is?

There does seem to be some issues with later cars, but your '98 should be fine.

[pahanorlando]

Thanks a lot.

[pahanorlando]

I finally got my hands on the project. Took about 5 minutes and everything is done. Since I got identical system to the one healthservices used, I did installation exactly the same. I was a bit confused which power wire he used as it says lead to immobilizer, but doesn't say which one.

It was the fattest red wire on the right of immobilizer, I think its mostly red with a bit of brown.

All works, only thing is after I lock the car with remote, after about 5 seconds, I hear a quiet beep from the car. Not sure why, but so far so good.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by pahanorlando

I finally got my hands on the project. Took about 5 minutes and everything is done. Since I got identical system to the one healthservices used, I did installation exactly the same. I was a bit confused which power wire he used as it says lead to immobilizer, but doesn't say which one.

It was the fattest red wire on the right of immobilizer, I think its mostly red with a bit of brown.

All works, only thing is after I lock the car with remote, after about 5 seconds, I hear a quiet beep from the car. Not sure why, but so far so good.

Nice work!

[jsouth]

Originally Posted by particlewave

There does seem to be some issues with later cars, but your '98 should be fine.

I have a 2002 Boxster S. I'm not sure which immobilizer. Are you saying this cheap universal remote kit may not work on mine? I have one on the way. It would be nice to know if this is a lost cause before I dive in.

Has anyone gotten this cheap universal remote to work to work on anything as late as a 2002?

[Tonybandit]

I have got an alarm and I only have 3 wires for the doors.
Will this be one neg and two wires for open and close?
Also, I only seam to have one wire for the trunk, is this right?
Thanks.

[KevM]

So, on seeing this thread and with my key-fob recently expiring, I ordered a kit and fitted it last night.

Has anyone gotten to the bottom of the 15 second issue?

Same as a few of you guys, my kit works perfectly until the Security system arms and once the led starts the slow flash, the central locking deactivates. The kit is getting 12+volts all the time and the relays within the kit are still flashing the lights as normal, but no lock function.

Further to that, and before fitting the kit, the manual key in the door lock, will activate the central locking faultlessly, raising and lowering the windows as it should, until the Security arms. Once that happens, the central locking deactivates and the key only unlocks the drivers door. This triggers the countdown to get the key into the ignition. On doing that, I hear the locking actuators activate again and get a click in the drivers door.

Is this typical? Or is it likely that I have a faulty micro-switch within a door lock?

[flyingpenguin]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JOM-7105-Universal-Central-Radio-Remote/dp/B003QGHALC

Looking at the wiring (number and colors) this one appears to be the same logic in a different form factor, but comes with a switch blade type keyfob. Got it all wired up and working thanks to this great thread. Now on to get the transponder chip and (insertable) key blade cut.

My kit came with 2 incompatible VW blades and they can be ordered from jom.de, but have something lying around that may work. Will see.