3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)

[particlewave]

If you need help adding the relay, just ask. It will be fine under the seat.

[joecal]

Originally Posted by particlewave

If you need help adding the relay, just ask. It will be fine under the seat.

Thanks for the offer! I do need help with the wiring of it, I have a Bosch 5 pin relay I was going to use. I know I don't need to use all 5 pins, probably 4 pins? I really don't know much about the working of relays. I've watched a few videos but I'm still unsure of how to wire it.
Thanks!

[particlewave]

Can you test the purple wire to see if it's 12V+ or ground when the trunk button is pressed on the remote?

[joecal]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Can you test the purple wire to see if it's 12V+ or ground when the trunk button is pressed on the remote?

It appears to be ground, I checked it with a test light.

[particlewave]

Ground when the remote button is pressed, but nothing (no light) when it's not pressed?

[joecal]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Ground when the remote button is pressed, but nothing (no light) when it's not pressed?

That is correct!

[particlewave]

Looks like healthservices already drew up a diagram

In his diagram, where it says "to aftermarket keyless signal wire", attach your purple wire from the keyless entry module.
I'd do what he did and mount the relay in the trunk, right next to the actuator. This seems easiest.

You'll cut the blue/black wire in 2 places: at the immobilizer where you'll connect your purple wire, and at the actuator, where the blue black/wire coming into the trunk will now be connected to your relay (pin 85), and the switched ground from the relay (pin 87) will be connected to the blue black wire on the actuator.

Originally Posted by healthservices

try this one instead...

87 jumps over the red wire it does not connect to it.

[joecal]

Thanks for the quick reply, I really appreciate all your help! I did see his diagram and I think you're right the trunk seems the best or maybe the only way to go. The red wire from the actuator would need to be tapped into relay (pin 86), so I'm not sure how you would do that from under the seat. Thanks again particlewave, you're a great asset to this forum!

[Swhitcomb]

Originally Posted by Swhitcomb

I never did get mine to function properly. I did learn a few things.

1. My window regulator was shot, and that's why the window wouldn't drop
2. The microswitch and led in the drivers door were not hooked up. They are now.
3. The gas door lock actuator in my car is broken. You can hear the motor on it spin but the hear seems to be striped. I have a new one I just need to install it.
4. I'm not 100% certain, but I THINK that's why the car won't unlock with the key. The lock is isn't sensing it hit the limit in either direction and is giving an error code for both.

Am I way off base with my thinking or is that a possible solution?

I am wrong. The passenger door is the one that wasn't hooked up. I pulled the seat and played with things some today. If I ground out the blue with a black stripe wire, the rear trunk opens as it should. I can't find a wire on the remote box that grounds and opens the trunk. Also, in playing around today, I realized that I'm almost certain the microswitch in the drivers door has failed. When you lock the car, it doesn't lock the other doors as it should, and when the windows are rolled down, holding the key on the locked position will not roll the windows up. However, they will roll down when holding it in the unlocked position.

I wish the schematic for this car was a little easier to read. I'm ok with electronics, but this is just on the edge of my comfort zone. Anyway, how do I test that microswitch?

[particlewave]

Do you have a DVM with continuity check? If not, a simple test light will work.
The best way would be to disconnect the door harness at the door jamb and test every switch from there. The pins on the door jamb connector should be numbered, but I can't check until tomorrow.

Let me know what you have for testing and I'll write up some instruction for testing everything (test will be the same for both doors and I suggest doing both). The test shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, but you'll really need a second person to pull the levers and turn the key while you probe the contacts.

[Swhitcomb]

I do have a DVM. I really appreciate all your help so far. Thank you.

[particlewave]

No problem

I'll write up some test procedures late tonight. Won't have time until then.

[particlewave]

Door Latch Microswitch Testing


Disconnect battery.
Open door fully and remove T20 Torx screw from bottom of connector.
Push connector up to release the top latch and pull the connector assembly out from door frame.
Push tabs on both sides of the bottom of the connector while pulling it down to unlock the cam.
Inset a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry the cam lock down to fully release it, then separate the door side connector from the car side.










The are 3 connectors inside; the main connector for the larger round pins and 2 smaller connectors. The large connector is designated "S". The small black connector is designated "A". The small white connector is designated "B".

You will be using the S5 pin on the larger connector and the pins on the smaller black connector only.

Set your DVM to continuity check.

1) Door Contact
Place one probe in S5 (common) and the other probe into A8 (you may need to use a paperclip or small wire inserted into the connector as the holes are very small in the 2 smaller connectors).
With the door latch open, you should read continuity.
Use a screwdriver to close the door latch (should look like the picture below).
You should now read no continuity.



Keep the latch closed for now.

2) Inside and Outside Door Handles
Insert one probe into A8 and the other into A3.
With the door latch closed, you should read no continuity.
Pull the inside door handle slightly (not enough to release the door latch) and you should read continuity.
Repeat for the outside door handle (ensure the latch is still closed).

Pull the handle fully to release the door latch, then use the screwdriver to push the latch fully open.
Keep one probe in A3 and place the other into S5.
You should read continuity.

3)Key Cylinder Function
Place one probe into S5 and the other into A2.
You should read no continuity.
Insert the key into the door lock and turn to LOCK position.
You should read continuity.

Place one probe into S5 and the other into A6.
You should read no continuity.
Insert the key into the door lock and turn to UNLOCK position.
You should read continuity.

Repeat for passenger door, minus the lock cylinder test.

[Swhitcomb]

Wow. Those are very detailed and concise directions. That's exactly what I needed and I really appreciate you taking what must've been hours to type them up.

[particlewave]

No trouble.
Between doing the testing myself, adding text to the pictures and typing it up, maybe an hour. I figure it will be a good resource for the community.
I've been meaning to do it for quite a while, anyway. The wiring diagram is not very clear and it's good to know what's going on in there.

There were still 2 contacts that I couldn't test. The "door safe" and "lock" contact (not the lock cylinder lock). I think they are probably tied to the latch motors to let the car know when the latch is locked out when the car is in motion. I'm really not sure. Seems like the motors will need to be powered to test them and you cant do that easily.

I'll do some thinking on it and try to test more next time I get the car out. I will have to pull the connector anyway because the "B" connector on the car side got pushed in and I couldn't fish it out of the frame before it started to rain. That connector is for the power mirror adjust.

[particlewave]

..........

[Swhitcomb]

Finally had time to do all those tests. The door lock mechanism on the on the drivers side is bad. No continuity at all locking or unlocking. Now I know where to start.

[Swhitcomb]

Correction. When locking there is no continuity between s5 and a2 where there should be. Woody says $50 plus shipping. Looks like that's at least part of the solution. While I had my tools out and was in a work on the Boxster mood, I finally replaced the fuel door actuator. What a pain in the ass. I've been dreading doing it for a while. I looked on the package it came in. November of 2015.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Swhitcomb

Correction. When locking there is no continuity between s5 and a2 where there should be. Woody says $50 plus shipping. Looks like that's at least part of the solution. While I had my tools out and was in a work on the Boxster mood, I finally replaced the fuel door actuator. What a pain in the ass. I've been dreading doing it for a while. I looked on the package it came in. November of 2015.

Let's hope the replacement latch solves your issues!

[Swhitcomb]

Well, the new mechanism came from Woody this week, and I finally had the time to install it today. The CLU still doesn't unlock after the alarm has armed. About 29 seconds after it's locked. It does however, now roll the windows up and down with the key like it should. Have to keep digging.