3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)

[healthservices]

Yes you still leave connected. You just tap into the wires.

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[Swhitcomb]

Thanks. This will be my next project. It's about $400 to have the dealer fix it and cut me a 2nd key.

[antny]

Thanks to Healthservices I finished this mod up today and viola I have a working rear trunk actuator now. Thanks for all the help.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by antny

Thanks to Healthservices I finished this mod up today and viola I have a working rear trunk actuator now. Thanks for all the help.

Very cool!

[antny]

My old actuator worked also. It had to be the programming in the immobilizer. Thanks for the write up particle. I would have never known how cheap and easy it was to get it going. Literally It got old having to go into the cab to unlock the trunk for groceries lol.

[particlewave]

Glad you got some use out of it

It's so nice to finally have keyless entry! I wish I had done it sooner.
$12 vs $400-$500 is astonishing...having added features like horn and/or flashing turn signals to locate vehicle and indicate arming/disarming, which OEM does not have, just makes it that much better!

[Scottduvall]

Did this on the weekend...aside from my wiring harness having every colour under the rainbow, once I figured out what was what, and used the info on this thread, I now have working remotes!

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Scottduvall

Did this on the weekend...aside from my wiring harness having every colour under the rainbow, once I figured out what was what, and used the info on this thread, I now have working remotes!

Nice!

Price and ease of install makes this mod almost to good to be true.

[AtlantaBoxster]

So it's been a long time since I have been on here. Was religious about it when I first got my 2001 in 2005. Coming up to 10 yrs now with 115000 miles. Been a great car and still puts a smile on my face to drive it.

Enough of that though - I started this project and after figuring things out, finally got the 'lock' part of the lock/unlock bit to work. I just can't get the unlock part to work. I've tried everything, rechecked wiring, etc - Nothing, nada, zilch.

If anyone can help out an strictly amateur DIY electrician (more of guy that soldered a few wires), I would appreciate it!!

Thank you much.

Marc

[particlewave]

Can you check your aftermarket module and confirm that it is putting out 12VDC negative (ground) on the unlock output wire?

[healthservices]

It can also be your crimps or connections too. Be there done that!!! Lol.

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[oldskool73]

Hi all, newbie on this board and have to say thanks for this thread! I used the info in it today to install a cheapo ebay keyless entry and alarm in my base 97 in under an hour. So far have the doors unlocking/locking and the lights flashing working fine, but wondering if someone could help me with a few other bits...

1. My kit came with a siren and a wire to run to it, but it's a bit big to fit under the seat so I was wondering if I could instead use it to get the horn to sound? Any idea if this would be possible by splicing into a wire in the bundle, and if so which one?

2. Any idea if there's a wire I can splice to get a 'key on' signal, or might I have to take this from the fuse box?

3. There doesn't seem to be a combined 'door open' signal. I currently have it hooked up to just the drivers door, any idea how I could go about combining the separate door open signals into one 'either door is open' signal? (I'm guessing some kind of relay, but a bit out of my depth...?)

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[AtlantaBoxster]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Can you check your aftermarket module and confirm that it is putting out 12VDC negative (ground) on the unlock output wire?

Ok, I went to check the voltage. I checked both the lock and unlock output wires. The readings I got were 6.5 V for the lock, 5.6 for the unlock. The thing is, I am not sure if I tested properly. I put the end of one probe into the wire connection point on the module and the other probe onto the body of the car.

I also tried disconnecting the both the lock and unlock wires and testing the voltage and got barely any, if any, readings. I tested the voltage in this case by connecting one probe to the output wire and the other probe to the body of the car to complete the circuit.

Could my unlock wire possibly not be brown with a red stripe?

Thanks again! This is baffling me.

[AtlantaBoxster]

Originally Posted by healthservices

It can also be your crimps or connections too. Be there done that!!! Lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Doubled checked and triple checked. Connections that were not soldered are now.

[healthservices]

Originally Posted by AtlantaBoxster

Ok, I went to check the voltage. I checked both the lock and unlock output wires. The readings I got were 6.5 V for the lock, 5.6 for the unlock. The thing is, I am not sure if I tested properly. I put the end of one probe into the wire connection point on the module and the other probe onto the body of the car.

I also tried disconnecting the both the lock and unlock wires and testing the voltage and got barely any, if any, readings. I tested the voltage in this case by connecting one probe to the output wire and the other probe to the body of the car to complete the circuit.

Could my unlock wire possibly not be brown with a red stripe?

Thanks again! This is baffling me.

okay so you and I are on the same page, yes...

- Brown wire to small Black/white wire on right side immobilizer
- Brown wire to small Black/green wire on right side immobilizer

will show voltage when nothing is happening.

when you ground this wire (make sure the door latch thinks it is latched by using a screw driver and flipping the latch.) when you ground one of these wires the door will lock or unlock.

This is what your aftermarket door module is suppose to be doing, supplying a momentarily ground to each of these wires depending on if you are locking or unlocking the car

when you use a voltmeter the voltage should go to zero momentarily when the lock button is hit.

[AtlantaBoxster]

Originally Posted by healthservices

okay so you and I are on the same page, yes...

- Brown wire to small Black/white wire on right side immobilizer
- Brown wire to small Black/green wire on right side immobilizer

will show voltage when nothing is happening.

when you ground this wire (make sure the door latch thinks it is latched by using a screw driver and flipping the latch.) when you ground one of these wires the door will lock or unlock.

This is what your aftermarket door module is suppose to be doing, supplying a momentarily ground to each of these wires depending on if you are locking or unlocking the car

when you use a voltmeter the voltage should go to zero momentarily when the lock button is hit.

Ok. Heading back out to try the next steps. It's hot here in Atlanta. BTW, what is this immobilizer you speak of?

[healthservices]

Originally Posted by AtlantaBoxster

Ok. Heading back out to try the next steps. It's hot here in Atlanta. BTW, what is this immobilizer you speak of?

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by AtlantaBoxster

Ok, I went to check the voltage. I checked both the lock and unlock output wires. The readings I got were 6.5 V for the lock, 5.6 for the unlock. The thing is, I am not sure if I tested properly. I put the end of one probe into the wire connection point on the module and the other probe onto the body of the car.

I also tried disconnecting the both the lock and unlock wires and testing the voltage and got barely any, if any, readings. I tested the voltage in this case by connecting one probe to the output wire and the other probe to the body of the car to complete the circuit.

Could my unlock wire possibly not be brown with a red stripe?

Thanks again! This is baffling me.

You are looking for a ground signal, so the other probe would be connected to a 12V + (POSITIVE) source, not the body (which is ground).

[AtlantaBoxster]

Originally Posted by particlewave

You are looking for a ground signal, so the other probe would be connected to a 12V + (POSITIVE) source, not the body (which is ground).

Ok! Just back in from the outside - I've figured it out. My first mistake - I had 2 brown with red stripe wires. At least, that's what it looks like to me. Apparently, when I discovered the second brown with red stripe wire and cut it, I heard an unlocking sound. Bingo! Seems I found the right wire.

I played around for a bit with that and could get nothing to work.

I eventually discovered that connecting only one end (the side with the charge) of this new brown/red stripe wire to the unlock wire from the module did it finally work!

I've tried many times splicing the unlock wire to the brown/red stripe wire and it does not work.

Question is - I've now cut the brown/red stripe wire and one side is no longer connected to anything - Does this matter?

[particlewave]

Yes, it means you will no longer be able to unlock the car with the key at the door
Something is not right.