Tips and advice please for IMS bearing replacement - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Viper10000 · 01-21-2015, 01:42 PM

Hello all,

I have spent the last few weeks researching everything I can about doing the IMS bearing replacement. I have acquired the parts and tools and I will be starting the project tomorrow. I figured I would reach out and ask if anyone had any last minute tips/advice on this. Thanks in advance and I'll be sure to take lots of pictures along the way so that I can post them after I complete the job.

jsceash · 01-21-2015, 03:14 PM

Read Pelican Parts 101 projects #14
Things I didn't have starting the first time
Gaskets for the exhaust flange and 6 new bolts and nuts
Triple square bit for lower driver-side odd bolt
Clutch plate alignment tool
Some way to plug up the Hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder.

Good luck

78F350 · 01-21-2015, 03:20 PM

Hopefully you have already read through some of the "I messed up using set screw" and "Shaft is off center." threads. I was fortunate enough to have a bad engine to mess up on, then do it right on my good engine (Pinned at TDC and no set screws).
This is a good guide with pictures. (I think it was made by another Forum member.):

porsche service boxster ims bearing repair install 986 diy tutorial Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS) Step by Step Replacement Guide - MIKE'S SPECIALTY AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE****Specializing in Porsche

Viper10000 · 01-21-2015, 03:38 PM

I didn't think about new exhaust flange gaskets. I'll add that to my list. I forgot to get new cam shaft plugs also so I will order both at the same time. I have come across that article and I read it a dozen times. Definitely helpful! I'm wondering though, can I get away with removing the muffler without removing the rear bumper?

Redboxs · 01-21-2015, 03:44 PM

I am doing my IMS next month. I was going to do it myself.. then I took Jake Raby's advice and I am having it done at a local shop. They wanted $2500 to do the job if I took them the car. But, I am pulling the motor anyway for some other stuff.. so I am just going to bring them the engine, they are doing it for less than $600. Then, I'll have peace of mind that it wasn't botched. Good luck, scary task.

Jamesp · 01-21-2015, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper10000

Hello all,

I have spent the last few weeks researching everything I can about doing the IMS bearing replacement. I have acquired the parts and tools and I will be starting the project tomorrow. I figured I would reach out and ask if anyone had any last minute tips/advice on this. Thanks in advance and I'll be sure to take lots of pictures along the way so that I can post them after I complete the job.

Set the engine to TDC. Make sure you really understand which hole in the front pulley is TDC so the engine is set there. If you're like me or many others, you want to jump in and start twisting bolts, but set the engine to TDC first. Make sure you have the appropriate bearing removal and replacement tools.
If it's a manual, you have access to the clutch. inspect it, clean it, replace what needs to be replaced. Check the flywheel / replace if necessary.
As has been stated already, read through the replacement procedure before starting so you know what to do next before you get there.

It's not hard to do and it's even easier to screw up, but with a little forward planning you'll have the satisfaction of doing it right yourself.

Viper10000 · 01-21-2015, 05:09 PM

Thanks everyone! All good tips here. I am not intimidated by the job, just want to make sure all of my ducks are in a row. I'll be putting the new bearing with installation tool in the freezer tonight as well. I feel like the hardest part of the job will be removing the muffler and then transmission. It is a 5spd so i will look at pilot bearing, flywheel, throwout bearing, etc but I dont anticipating replacing any of that (unless I find a surprise). Car runs grest, clutch job was done by previous owner not long before i purchased it. (I am hoping the clutch job was not just simply replacing the clutch disc.) So we will see what happens tomorrow. Wish me luck and please feel free to chime in with anything else I might be overlooking. Oh, I will also be replacing the RMS while I am in there.

78F350 · 01-21-2015, 05:30 PM

Quote:

I'm wondering though, can I get away with removing the muffler without removing the rear bumper?

Removing the bumper is not that hard and it really opens things up for the rest of the job.

Those little pins or rivets that hold the spoiler come out easily. One of mine had the original pin-fasteners and one rivets. Poke the pins in, or drill the rivets. The rest is just a few screws and bolts. Bag 'em and tag 'em.

flaps10 · 01-21-2015, 06:07 PM

I did not remove the bumper. You'll have to lift the car a bit higher, but it can definitely be done without.

I'll second obtaining the triple square tool (I had never heard of such a thing either), and new exhaust hardware. Exhaust hardware leads a very tough life. Even if you get it all off successfully this time it will be stuck bigger than crap next time you're in there. Just throw it out and get new.

Nine8Six · 01-21-2015, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350

Hopefully you have already read through some of the "I messed up using set screw" and "Shaft is off center." threads. I was fortunate enough to have a bad engine to mess up on, then do it right on my good engine (Pinned at TDC and no set screws).
This is a good guide with pictures. (I think it was made by another Forum member.):

porsche service boxster ims bearing repair install 986 diy tutorial Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS) Step by Step Replacement Guide - MIKE'S SPECIALTY AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE****Specializing in Porsche

Wow, now that's some nicely put procedure. Nice find.

He makes it look like I'd be able to do this myself (I think), at home, in the driveway, kids toying and screaming around and all. Too Easy! Nice write up for sure

He said "Overnight" in the freezer? would 120min at subzero temp suffice, no?! Metal conductivity is tad faster than meat or tissues I think loll

Viper10000 · 01-22-2015, 04:15 AM

I do have a few assorted triple square bits so I'm good there. I put the bearing in the freezer last night. I will try to do this project without removing the rear bumper, we will see how it goes. I am also wondering, do I really need to remove the wheel axle to hub bolts? The torque spec in the Bentley manual is 340 ft/lbs. Thats A LOT of torque. anyone remove a 5 speed transmission without doing this? I just finished my morning coffee and am about to get started. Thanks again everyone! Keep the info coming!

78F350 · 01-22-2015, 05:57 AM

I didn't even take my wheels off. No problem, the shafts can easily be moved out of the way as you drop the transmission.

jsceash · 01-22-2015, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper10000

I do have a few assorted triple square bits so I'm good there. I put the bearing in the freezer last night. I will try to do this project without removing the rear bumper, we will see how it goes. I am also wondering, do I really need to remove the wheel axle to hub bolts? The torque spec in the Bentley manual is 340 ft/lbs. Thats A LOT of torque. anyone remove a 5 speed transmission without doing this? I just finished my morning coffee and am about to get started. Thanks again everyone! Keep the info coming!

Agreed removing the axles totally from the hubs is not needed. Collapsing the shaft to the outside will give you all the clearance you need.

Viper10000 · 01-22-2015, 04:51 PM

I'm loving the Home Depot bucket giving me more confidence as I get started, lol.

This little transmission jack from Harbor Freight was great for this task!

My stopping point for the day.

I see a little oil...hmmmm...

Starting to make a mess in my garage.

Everything went well so far. I managed to leave the rear bumper on and the axles attached to the wheel bearings. I would have took more pictures but it was tough not getting grease and dirt everywhere. I'll try to take more when I get down to removing the pressure plate and flywheel. Thanks again everyone for the tips and advice!

Viper10000 · 01-23-2015, 08:24 AM

So, as I am trying to set bank one to TDC, I am not sure as to which cam plug I should pull off for the cam lock tool. I have a 5-chain motor so I was planning on using the short lock. Does this lock go into the top or bottom cam shaft behind the passenger seat? Or should I just pull both plugs and put the longer cam lock on?

JFP in PA · 01-23-2015, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper10000

So, as I am trying to set bank one to TDC, I am not sure as to which cam plug I should pull off for the cam lock tool. I have a 5-chain motor so I was planning on using the short lock. Does this lock go into the top or bottom cam shaft behind the passenger seat? Or should I just pull both plugs and put the longer cam lock on?

http://www.imsretrofit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/imsretrofit.pdf

Viper10000 · 01-23-2015, 09:15 AM

Ok, I guess I'll pop the plug off the top cam shaft on bank one behind the passenger seat and lock the short cam lock there.

Viper10000 · 01-23-2015, 10:26 AM

I pulled the top plug and there are no notches in the cam shaft. Just a little "scribe" mark and 180 degrees from that is a double "scribe" mark. I popped the bottom cam cover off and there are the notches. Looks like ill be using the short cam lock on the bottom cam. Another question to throw out there; What size/thread bolt will hold the cam lock onto the engine?

Viper10000 · 01-24-2015, 11:57 AM

Ok, so I went to the local hardware store and purchased a few bolts of different sizes and I think the M8x1.25 is the winner to bolt the cam lock to the engine. Now after i install that, i still need to remove the pressure plate and flywheel. I know i need to remove the pressure plate bolts in a pattern and a little at a time, but does anyone know how many turns can be done on each bolt before moving to the next one? If i do 2 turns each will i be there all day? Whats the best way to go here? Thanks again!

Jamesp · 01-25-2015, 09:56 AM

I did not use either the TDC or the cam locks to counter any torque for clutch or flywheel bolts. I used a breaker bar on the front pulley bolt to react torque. In fact I removed all the locks before applying torque to the crankshaft as I did not want any of the locks reacting torque. When I install or remove a clutch I use 1/2 turn increments on opposing bolts whenever spring tension exists. That takes very little additional time and provides consistent spring deformation during installation and removal. It might be over conservative, but I'd rather error on that side.