Tips and advice please for IMS bearing replacement

[Viper10000]

Ok, I guess I'll pop the plug off the top cam shaft on bank one behind the passenger seat and lock the short cam lock there.

[Viper10000]

I pulled the top plug and there are no notches in the cam shaft. Just a little "scribe" mark and 180 degrees from that is a double "scribe" mark. I popped the bottom cam cover off and there are the notches. Looks like ill be using the short cam lock on the bottom cam. Another question to throw out there; What size/thread bolt will hold the cam lock onto the engine?

[Viper10000]

Ok, so I went to the local hardware store and purchased a few bolts of different sizes and I think the M8x1.25 is the winner to bolt the cam lock to the engine. Now after i install that, i still need to remove the pressure plate and flywheel. I know i need to remove the pressure plate bolts in a pattern and a little at a time, but does anyone know how many turns can be done on each bolt before moving to the next one? If i do 2 turns each will i be there all day? Whats the best way to go here? Thanks again!

[Jamesp]

I did not use either the TDC or the cam locks to counter any torque for clutch or flywheel bolts. I used a breaker bar on the front pulley bolt to react torque. In fact I removed all the locks before applying torque to the crankshaft as I did not want any of the locks reacting torque. When I install or remove a clutch I use 1/2 turn increments on opposing bolts whenever spring tension exists. That takes very little additional time and provides consistent spring deformation during installation and removal. It might be over conservative, but I'd rather error on that side.

[Viper10000]

Thanks James! I'll do just that. I'll pull the tdc lock and cam lock, throw a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and wedge that with something. I cant wait to get going on this job again! I just have a lot going on right now and now a lot of snow is expected so that doesn't help!

[JonD]

I so admire you guys taking on this kind of stuff, I just wouldn't have the nerve to tackle something like this on my own. I would definitely participate though if someone wanted help. Besides I have no tools and getting a bit old now to start, well that's my excuse anyway. I have to say though you all must get such a satisfied feeling when you do it all yourselves plus the added bonus is you know you did it properly and not trust your babies to some non caring mechanic only interested in your money.
Wish you all the best Viper looks like you're doing a fantastic job, keep it up

[Viper10000]

Thanks JonD! I enjoy working on cars and problem solving. I always like to get a second opinion on things in case I'm not doing something right. Being that there are written procedures, it makes it a little easier as long as you understand it and are in agreement with it. I found a few other things needing attention already and I didn't even pull off the pressure plate yet. I have a few torn CV boots and a missing mounting bolt for the transmission. One of the nuts holding the transmission to the engine was only finger tight too. Makes me annoyed and also doubtful of the mechanic that performed the clutch replacement. What else was botched? Overlooked? Short cutted? I hope I don't need to replace the flywheel or pressure plate although I will replace the pilot and throw out bearing since it is all apart and was probably not previously done. Sorry to rant, just don't like laziness when it comes to repairs! It seems like no one can do their job a lot lately.

[Viper10000]

Just trying to think ahead while I don't have time to do this yet... When I remove the timing chain tensioners, do they need to be "re-primed" or can I just put them back in as is? Or can I just loosen the tensioners instead of removal? And would loosening require a "re-prime"?

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Viper10000

Just trying to think ahead while I don't have time to do this yet... When I remove the timing chain tensioners, do they need to be "re-primed" or can I just put them back in as is? Or can I just loosen the tensioners instead of removal? And would loosening require a "re-prime"?

When I had mine out I pumped them in clean oil to get dirt out of them and there was plenty of dirty oil in them. Others can chime in on whether or not full removal is necessary, seems like it would be.

[Reebuck1]

Yes, they need to be primed!! Submerge them in oil and just pump them. You also should replace the RMS even though it is not leaking. Porsche up graded the seal a couple of times so make sure you order the latest version.