Normal Oil change or switch to spin on filter
 

Hello all,

I'm about to do my first oil change. I'm debating whether to buy the Oil filter tool, or to buy the LN spin on filter. Any suggestions?


Tony

If you do a search and read the reasons why, you will go with the spin on filter.

Tony,
I just switched to a spin-on filter using the LN adapter, although it wasn't oil change time. I just pulled the plastic housing and paper filter, installed the adapter and used the oil in the housing to fill the new filter before spinning it on.
Given the finer filtration and the deletion of the bypass mechanism, it really was a no-brainer.

I've got the spin on adapter as well. But I did a few oil changes before I added it. The filter wrench for the OEM was only a few $$$ and it fits a couple of the other cars I do. It was this one:

Amazon.com: Lisle 61570 76mm 14-Flute End Cap Wrench Set: Automotive

I think a few local places had this size as well for even less. I wouldn't do the OEM filter housing by hand as it is tough to get on. With the spin on adapter I do it by hand.

My adapter and filter are waiting in the garage for a cooler day and some spare time.

Bruce,
It'll take you all of 15 minutes, including opening the beer...
FYI, you will need a 26mm socket to torque it down. The adapter, not the beer.

I know, I have to go get the socket still and I literally don't have 15 minutes of free time. I am in the middle of ground school for flying a different airplane. I'll get to it soon.

What model number if the spin on adapter from LN? I done some searching in the past and can't find what I think is the correct one for my 2001 S.

I'm pretty sure it's 106-01 for just the M96 adapter.
Or you could buy the oil change bundle...
Oil Change Bundle for MY 1997 - 2008 Boxster/Cayman/911 - Featured - Products LN Engineering
If it's not listed at the LN site, it's not currently in stock.

Yeah, do the switch. Better filters and choices with spin on. Use a nice K&N, do NOT use a Fram filter.

I've been using the WIX 51042. Good quality, readily available, reasonable price, plus they've been making them forever (and branding them for other companies, too. ;))

Manufacturing Today - WIX Filters

This is not a commercial, and as always......I'm just sayin'...........

TO

The Wix is what I have been using as well.

Check the Specs
 

NAPA Gold filter is the best I have found

The Napa Gold is made by WIX. 51042.

TO

Be careful working under the car guys!!! On Monday August 18 2014 I was gruesomely awakened to how fragile life is after seeing my neighbors 23 year old son crushed to death under the mustang he so dearly loved. Jack stands were used so not clear yet what caused this .

Still wrestling with doing my own oil changes but this accident has put a lot into perspective

The jackstands with the teeth and lever are prone to breakage. I was under my 914, very light car, and heard a clunk as one tooth broke off and one corner dropped an inch. I went to Northern Tools and picked up 4 of the post and pin type stands.

Just picked up a scissor lift.

I keep the floor jack positioned in the middle to take some of the load just in case. Wood blocks might also be a good back up plan.

Just did the exact same thing last week. I searched a ton on this site and the web. The people in the know had all the right answers and advise.

This was actually a stumbling block. I have a ton of sockets but I didn't have a 26mm one. Nor did any of the stores around me carry them. I bought one online for $4.50 delivered so it just delayed me a tad.

Sad stuff. I try to learn from others mistakes. I will take this one to heart. I have never heard of teeth one the extensions failing but it makes sense that they could. Thanks you for posting this.

I always use two jack stands and my huge floor jack on the side I am working on, I pump up the jack handle until I see it making a slight change in the way the jack stand's look...that way if the stand failed the jack will catch it.....if it falls it will have to be the side I am not working on. Dont be afraid of doing an oil change. One thing I did and it may look kinda juvenile but when dong an oil change I drive the car until it is up to temp and then back the car on my ramps, that muffler is hot as a $5 pistol. I take a box fan and sit it by the muffler and run for 5 minutes and the muffler is cool to the touch..then dive under and let the oil out. If it your first change make sure you have a large enough pan, my first attempt was with one of those that captures the oil and the bottom and it could not handle the flow rate that was coming out of the oil pan....made a mess.

Thanks for the info. I just ordered the kit.

I have a 5 gallon pail of Oil-Dri that I spread out liberally before I even unscrew the drain plug. It's much easier to clean up than an oil slick, and it doesn't stain the driveway.

I just ordered the spin on kit (with the filter, adapter and plug). Now the question is:

Should I use SeaFoam, or ATF to clean the engine, or nothing at all?

Everything I have read is that Seafoam is a sham, Porsche does not recommend it so I would never use it.

If you have been running a full synthetic, and changing it at reasonable intervals, you should not need anything.

If you look at a chemical analysis of Sea Foam, it looks just like nail polish remover.

Agreed run Mobile 1 and change every 3 to 4 k and you will be fine

Great. But I've only had the car for 6 months. Although I think the previous owner was very diligent about maintaining the car (it was a one owner car), I still think the lifters are noisier then they should be. I think that cleaning the valve train will help. After 111K miles, there are bound to be some deposits on the valves and the lifters (no matter how well the car was cared for).

How do you know
 

It is the lifters ?

I've heard noisy lifter before. They're not supper loud. Not a rattling noise, more like clacking. The engine actually purrs nicely. Maybe I should open this question in a new thread.

Tony

Hi everyone, I'm Jim Flowers and just joined this forum. I own a 2000 Boxster with 109,000 miles. It has been a daily for the previous two owners and I drive it just as much as I can.

I was considering the conversion to the twist-on filter but there is so much hype about the IMS Bearing failure, I opted to keep the current paper filters so that I could.tear them open and search for an increase in number or size of metal filings. Therefore, maybe catching a failure before it gets catastrophic.

I'm not an experienced mechanic...just a DIY-er. What do y'all think?

The spin on adapter filters the oil all the time, every time. The stock does not. You can buy an oil filter opener to inspect the filter, much cheaper than a trashed engine IMO. Welcome to the forum:cheers:

BruceH is correct. I use the spin on filters, and use a Dremel to cut the metal casing free of the paper element.

After inspection, I save the filter and a smear of the magnetic drain plug, then place in a Ziploc bag with the mileage written on it.

Not that I'm OCD or anything. ;)

Just sayin'..........

TO

Harbor Feight sells this exhaust pipe cut off tool. I have read that they will work on our small oil filters. I plan on picking one up.

Exhaust Pipe Cut-Off Tool

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_21651.jpg

Chuck,
Thanks for the information about that cut off tool.
Gotta git me one. It appeals to my frugal nature. :D

i have seen some problems which some people are having finding a 26mm socket..... 1" = 25.4mm. my 1 inch socket worked just fine for the installation. just a suggestion for some of you partaking in the endeavor of filtration alteration.

:-)

Epic.

Cutting metal filters had not crossed my mind. Think I will visit Harbor Freight after I pick up that LN adapter and install it.

Thanks

Just a quick question for you. When you use the spin on filter versus the paper filter is there anyway to check for metal in the filter?

Take a look at the last few posts, just cut the metal case open and pull out the filter.