AutoTop DIY

[oldskool73]

Hey guys, I need some help with this, I've built this twice now and I just can't get it to work. The code and electronics in theory are working fine, I've breadboarded it all up with a couple of led's to simulate the top motor and can turn them on and off with the buttons, but when I get it in the car... nothing.

If I put a multimeter between the regular harness and switch, when I press the button I see 12v @ ~70ma when the top's moving, which drops to ~10ma when the top stops. But when I do it between the arduino and the harness I see 12v @ ~30ma. I'm guessing this is the reason it doesn't work, not pushing enough power through to activate the motor, but I don't know why?

I've built it twice now, thinking I must have screwed up the first one, but the second has exactly the same result :/

The only difference I can see in my build is I'm using a nano, which has no +/- and only 2 GND. So the VR goes to the VIN and one GND, leaving one free GND which I connect to from the harness, and which both switches (via the 10k resistors) and both transistors (via the collector pins) are wired to. Is this wrong?

I'm just a simple software guy, so all these wires and pins confuse me. Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by Polaris

Parts List:
-5 male automotive crimp-on connectors
-5 female automotive crimp-on connectors
-1 splice connector

I ordered the Arduino Nano board for $5.88 shipped. ATMEGA328 Compatible Nano V3 Improved Version Board with USB Cable for Arduino | eBay

I have put all of the components in a cart on Mouser and am now trying to get the connectors.

Does anyone know the specifics of these automotive crimp-on connectors so that they fit between the harness and the switch?

Thanks, John

[JayG]

Originally Posted by jpc763

I ordered the Arduino Nano board for $5.88 shipped. ATMEGA328 Compatible Nano V3 Improved Version Board with USB Cable for Arduino | eBay

I have put all of the components in a cart on Mouser and am now trying to get the connectors.

Does anyone know the specifics of these automotive crimp-on connectors so that they fit between the harness and the switch?

Thanks, John

they are just regular 1/4" push on terminals
Gardner Bender 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB (75-Pack)-75-143F - The Home Depot
I used an insulated version
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-4-in-Blue-Fully-Insulated-Wire-Disconnects-15-Pack-15-153F/202521914

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by JayG

they are just regular 1/4" push on terminals
Gardner Bender 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB (75-Pack)-75-143F - The Home Depot
I used an insulated version
Gardner Bender 1/4 in. Blue Fully Insulated Wire Disconnects (15-Pack)-15-153F - The Home Depot

Thanks! I ordered the components and will go to HD to get the connectors! Can't wait to get this project rolling!

John

[JayG]

Originally Posted by jpc763

Thanks! I ordered the components and will go to HD to get the connectors! Can't wait to get this project rolling!

John

Make sure you get the correct ones for the wire gauge you are using.
IIRC, I used red ones. The package tells you what gauge wire will fit

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by JayG

Make sure you get the correct ones for the wire gauge you are using.
IIRC, I used red ones. The package tells you what gauge wire will fit

What gauge wire should I be using?

John

[JayG]

Originally Posted by jpc763

What gauge wire should I be using?

John

I used 16 gauge, so I guess I used blue terminals

[geraintthomas]

Originally Posted by oldskool73

Hey guys, I need some help with this, I've built this twice now and I just can't get it to work. The code and electronics in theory are working fine, I've breadboarded it all up with a couple of led's to simulate the top motor and can turn them on and off with the buttons, but when I get it in the car... nothing.

If I put a multimeter between the regular harness and switch, when I press the button I see 12v @ ~70ma when the top's moving, which drops to ~10ma when the top stops. But when I do it between the arduino and the harness I see 12v @ ~30ma. I'm guessing this is the reason it doesn't work, not pushing enough power through to activate the motor, but I don't know why?

I've built it twice now, thinking I must have screwed up the first one, but the second has exactly the same result :/

The only difference I can see in my build is I'm using a nano, which has no +/- and only 2 GND. So the VR goes to the VIN and one GND, leaving one free GND which I connect to from the harness, and which both switches (via the 10k resistors) and both transistors (via the collector pins) are wired to. Is this wrong?

I'm just a simple software guy, so all these wires and pins confuse me. Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

Personally I'd buy a One just to be absolutely sure that everything is the same as the build. I did and it works as I didn't want to get anything wrong. Originally I bought a cheap ebay rip-off and it didn't work, then I bit the bullet and bought a proper Arduino One for £20 and it worked first time

[oldskool73]

Thanks @geraintthomas, gonna hang on and see if @jpc763 has any luck with his nano first, hopefully he reports back...

[jpc763]

I will post when I complete the project.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by Polaris

Schematic:

Originally Posted by JayG

OK, finally got a chance to take a few pics

OK. I am starting the project and have a few questions. I was a code guy back in the day but have done some electronics. I am using a breadboard to wire it up before I solder everything together.

Here is a picture of my nano. I am trying to figure out how to match the pinouts from Polaris's Arduino. Mine is more like JayG.



I assume that the "-" on the end is simply ground and will solder to the other ground wires. The "+" is a question as I have both 5v, 3.3v and pow pins. So, which do I connect the power regulator to?

[JayG]

The regulator connects to +5v

[Beriaan]

Does anyone have the shcematic for the arduino nano? It is hard to find out wich is the pin out number on the arduino nano it is very different then the schematic that polaris did.
Thanks guys!

[Polaris]

Everything is on the digital pins, and it should correspond to the same pin-out numbers even if they are in a different order.

Alternatively, all the pinouts are set up through constants, so you can change the pinouts the code uses by changing the constants at the top of the code before compiling and uploading to your arduino.

I have made this successfully with both the arduino one (my original version) and eBay Chinese nanos without issue, so it should be possible.

[mikehkang]

Hello Polaris,

Coming late to the AutoTop party.
The link to the arduino code is broken in your original post.
Where can I find the code?

Thank you in advance.

[oldskool73]

@mikehkang - you can grab it from my github if you need, this first commit is just an import of @Polaris's original code .... https://raw.githubusercontent.com/oldskool73/autotop986/4080d0e94c0b5fdb2546379d614b5992477a9e4d/autotop986.ino

[mikehkang]

Originally Posted by oldskool73

@mikehkang - you can grab it from my github if you need, this first commit is just an import of @Polaris's original code .... https://raw.githubusercontent.com/oldskool73/autotop986/4080d0e94c0b5fdb2546379d614b5992477a9e4d/autotop986.ino

Thank you oldskool73!!

P. S. Do you also know where I can get the circuit diagram? Thank you in advance.

[VIW9419]

Hi Guys.

If anyone has the schematic I would be most grateful.
Thanks

[JayG]

Here is the Schematic

[VIW9419]

Thanks, I will build it tomorrow.