Track Pads Questions

[Racer Boy]

That's interesting. I wonder what the differences are in why they worked for you, but not me? I tried new rotors, and that made no difference. I also bedded them in according to EBC's directions.

In fact, I've tried green, red, and yellow EBCs; green faded easily (no surprise), and both reds and yellow gave me the shuddering. That's why I'm going to try something else.


Anyone here had experience with the Porterfield RS4s?

[Topless]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

That's interesting. I wonder what the differences are in why they worked for you, but not me? I tried new rotors, and that made no difference. I also bedded them in according to EBC's directions.

In fact, I've tried green, red, and yellow EBCs; green faded easily (no surprise), and both reds and yellow gave me the shuddering. That's why I'm going to try something else.


Anyone here had experience with the Porterfield RS4s?

FWIW, rotor judder is generally from uneven hot pad transfer to the rotors. This is usually caused by failing to take a nice easy cool down lap or an easy drive down paddock row to cool the rotors down before stopping the car. I had this problem with Pagid Yellows and it got really bad but in hindsight, it was probably my cool down habits, not the pads fault. I cool down for at least 2 miles now and have never had another problem.

The best high heat pads I have used are Raybestos ST-43 custom cut from Porterfield. Excellent modulation, heat management, and they last 20+ track days. I have run these pads for about 7 years now and love them. Downside: They squeal like a school bus when cold.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by Topless

FWIW, rotor judder is generally from uneven hot pad transfer to the rotors. This is usually caused by failing to take a nice easy cool down lap or an easy drive down paddock row to cool the rotors down before stopping the car. I had this problem with Pagid Yellows and it got really bad but in hindsight, it was probably my cool down habits, not the pads fault. I cool down for at least 2 miles now and have never had another problem.

The best high heat pads I have used are Raybestos ST-43 custom cut from Porterfield. Excellent modulation, heat management, and they last 20+ track days. I have run these pads for about 7 years now and love them. Downside: They squeal like a school bus when cold.

Judder can also occur when you have two incompatible brake compounds on the same rotor. Ceramic and metallic compounds don't mix well and some metallics don't work well together either.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Topless

The best high heat pads I have used are Raybestos ST-43 custom cut from Porterfield. Excellent modulation, heat management, and they last 20+ track days. I have run these pads for about 7 years now and love them. Downside: They squeal like a school bus when cold.

I switched to these brakes a week ago, in preparation for today's DE with PCA.

I gotta say, they're freaking AWESOME! Yes..... embarrassing on the street, what with the howl and squeal. But on the track, they're inspiring.

However:
I boiled the motul rbf600 fluid. Yeah..... I know.
Had to do a paddock bleed (thanks MaxD!). The next session I tried to brake harder, for less time. The brakes lasted, but I wasn't as smooth. I'll need to keep improving.

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[AZ986S]

Ok so I have used the PFC 08s for a full season about 10 events.
Not going back to EBC Yellow. For one, wear is almost negligeable. The cold to hot performance also not a lot. Initial break bite a little less but modulation is excellent.
They cost almost twice as much but will likely last 4 times longer.
Also they are not.wearing the rotors down much.
They do squeal both hot and cold. Only drawback.

So PFC 08 it will be for.a.while...