The stock ones won't work either.. all the aftermarket links are based on these!!

Run the LSD with one link removed and zip tied up to the toe link (they move at the same rate) and test the car without the rear bar. LSD's inherently induce understeer that has to be dialed out. I leave the nut on the floating drop link and run the car for a session with the bar disconnected, then quickly reconnect it for the next session for side by side comparison.


The rear links being sold are a compromise.


B

Interesting, so you recommend actually downgrading the rear if the car has an LSD?

I'm a HUGE fan of adjust-ability. We dial our cars per track (its what we do in professional racing, so I do it in club racing also) **Most** of the pro drivers I work with/drive with don't run a rear bar but have a LSD (it means you are very close on spring rate and have the car balanced with slight oversteer) We change springs and tenders until the car is balanced without the bars, then use the bars as a course adjustment and the shocks as a fine adjustment.

Try it. You have nothing to lose by removing a drop link from the rear bar and placing it away from the bar. Run the car and see if you like it. If you don't like it, reconnect it~! Pretty easy. I promise less wheel spin on open diff cars :) if you dis-connect it.

I disconnect the front and rear for racing when it is raining, so I do know what it feels like to drive without the sway bars - just never tried it in the dry on just the rear to improve lap times...

I worked all year on testing different configurations and came up with this exact same conclusion. Thanks for letting the cat out of the bag dude.:mad:

I have a GT3 front sway bar, GT3 adj control arms, tarret drop link clones.
I also have TIEN springs -- 500# and 692# in pairs

I was building a Boxster S track car and collecting parts -- but never built the car.

email mike@lonestarrpm.com or PM
thx

Mike