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Old 11-09-2011, 06:28 PM   #1
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Electric power steering pump

The track season is over and all indications are that I overcooked my power steering pump AGAIN (this is the 2nd one is as many years)
So I think it's time for an electric one.
Has anyone done it?
Good tips for which one to use (should have an integrated reservoir)? I think the Porsche motorsport electric PS pump is great but too expensive.
Any DIY?

Thanks
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:35 PM   #2
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An undrive pulley should help.....slows down the pump!
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:50 PM   #3
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renegade hybrids sells a kit for the 996. you can also buy 'universal' kits for about the same money. a search online will show that a lot of folks use mr2 elecric ps pumps. there's caveats with power draw, electronic control, sourcing switched and unswitched power, etc. again, you'll have to search to get any info of use (i'd asked here before to no avail).

i'm currently looking at what it takes to convert a ps steering rack to manual. most folks state that it's fine for general driving and track/de, but heavy for ax and two hands required for parking and other slow maneuvers. better road feel. allows you to ditch the ps pump and plumbing alltogether - a few more hp, less weight.

the conversion looks easy (for info look to the 944 and 928 guys). plumb the inputs to each side of the rack piston together, plug the four ports on the pinion tower. the only thing i'm trying to confirm is whether you can get into the pinion tower to shim the torsion bar and reduce some play.
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay View Post
An undrive pulley should help.....slows down the pump!
Nope didn't help in my case
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:55 AM   #5
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How about a PS fluid cooler? It may require custom plumbing, if no one has a kit, but it should be simpler than the other options.
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:26 AM   #6
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ln engineering has a kit.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:59 PM   #7
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Yeah, that would make sense if the PS pump is still OK.
But I can either replace the pump again and install the cooler or simply get rid of the whole troublesome PS assembly alltogether and replace it with something reliable
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:40 PM   #8
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That's true, I forgot the fact that your pump is toast.
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:53 PM   #9
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precision chassisworks just put an electri cps pump into a boxster (check out the kpaz subaru conversion thread).

here's a link to how to convert to manual ps:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum/663439-manual-steering-rack-2.html

and this helps a lot:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering.htm

Last edited by The Radium King; 11-11-2011 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:39 PM   #10
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To finish the story:

I got lucky and my pump was not toast, so I had the leaking PS line replaced and have the LN engineering PS cooler installed, so let's see how this works out this upcoming season
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:37 AM   #11
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The 991 has a electric p/s pump mounted on the steering rack & I believe the next Boxster will use the same setup.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:19 PM   #12
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Chris where did you end up installing the cooler? I always cringe at the thought of drilling holes in the bottom sheet metal...from a corrosion stand point

Did you make a cooling duct for it?
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #13
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I could sell you a LUK (OEM) pump for $500+ shipping and then buy a cooler for the $150. Just barely over the price of a new pump :P take your pick!
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay View Post
Chris where did you end up installing the cooler? I always cringe at the thought of drilling holes in the bottom sheet metal...from a corrosion stand point

Did you make a cooling duct for it?
Well I (or my mechanic) had to drill two small holes into the underside for the rivets. Based on the location I live (Northern CA) I am not too worried about corrosion ;-)
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #15
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I have another pump that bolts straight in place. Made by the same company that provides Porsche with the current pump.

The pump I use allows for a remote fill canister.

The issue: engine block heat cooks the plastic fitting at the back of the reservoir.

Get rid of the plastic fitting (stop sawing the wheel like a 911 driver) and move to a remote canister. It ads fluid capacity (which means more cooling) and makes it MUCH easier to stay on top of fluid level!!

We started installing coolers on the Boxster's back in 04. We still melted fittings on the back of the reservoir (which means we were not actually addressing the real problem)

I LOVE the electric units... BUT.. they are pricey and the electric pumps burn out also!! Ask ANY Mini Cooper owner!!



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Old 02-20-2012, 10:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts View Post
I have another pump that bolts straight in place. Made by the same company that provides Porsche with the current pump.

The pump I use allows for a remote fill canister.

The issue: engine block heat cooks the plastic fitting at the back of the reservoir.

Get rid of the plastic fitting (stop sawing the wheel like a 911 driver) and move to a remote canister. It ads fluid capacity (which means more cooling) and makes it MUCH easier to stay on top of fluid level!!

We started installing coolers on the Boxster's back in 04. We still melted fittings on the back of the reservoir (which means we were not actually addressing the real problem)

I LOVE the electric units... BUT.. they are pricey and the electric pumps burn out also!! Ask ANY Mini Cooper owner!!



B
Dude, we need pictures and more details - this sounds like a nice solution, but I need more info to understand the execution
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:24 AM   #17
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Have you had a problem? I have found that if we get rid of the USA supplied smog pump, the top of the engine stay's much cooler!! (more airflow over it)

I'm working on a kit.. I'd prefer not to share the pump numbers. The second we sell one "outside" of the shop.. it will be all over the internet.



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Old 02-22-2012, 11:28 AM   #18
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Have I had a problem - No, not yet
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:22 AM   #19
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When we first started seeing problems in 03 (only on the S's) it was 911 drivers driving their first mid engine car. I'd watch their in car video's and laugh my ass off at them "sawing at the wheel" like they are taught by every 911 instructor out there. This technique is not only causing more heat, it is slower.. in a mid engine car..

I'd stand on pit wall and watch people SAW the wheel down the straight away. I once stood at an AutoX and had people ask me "why is the nose of his car moving back and forth on that straight away"? (He was sawing the wheel)

So, take a LONG hard look at your driving/hands on the wheel in your own video's BEFORE you decide you need to make a change to the car.

Something else to do that is cheap? Disconnect the wire that controls the passenger side fan and put a switch on it! The computer controls the ground side of the relay (which is in the trunk) so interrupt the ground with a regular toggle switch and switch the fan on every time you head out onto the track or AutoX. Porsche only turns the fan on to evacuate the engine compartment on cold start, and when the temps rise to a certain level (I forget that temp)

or.. or.. remove that fan altogether and anything in the duct work that could impede airflow into the engine compartment from outside.


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Old 02-23-2012, 09:33 AM   #20
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Good stuff Brad. I have already removed the fan as per your recommendations some time back.

I also think that the ambient temperatures over here and the fact that we run 20min races will also reduce the risk of any issue for me.

As for driving style. I did learn to drive in a 911 (1978 911sc), but not sure I drive in the way you indicate. This is how I drive the Boxster -

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