Random thoughts on my Boxter - Year One

[DSRJerry]

I bought a pristine 2000 bright yellow Boxter with 73,000 miles on it last September. It had a clean PPI, but no service history. It’s my 4th Porsche, with two 356’s and a 911S in the late 80’s. (I’m 78 years old.)

Since I didn’t know what had been done to the car, I started working my way through the things I was able to do. I changed oil in the engine and the trans. I changed all the filters — fuel, air, cabin, and oil (including installation of a spin-on oil filter mod). I Installed a new AOS, spark plugs and tubes, a water pump, and low temp thermostat. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, recharged the AC, and cleaned out the drains.

I have reached a number of conclusions over the last 12 months with the car:
1. The Boxster is the most difficult car to work on that I have ever owned, by several degrees of magnitude. I’ve never owned a car that required the removal of body panels to replace nearly every part. Most of the time I had to choose between seeing what I wanted to do or being able to get the desired tool where it needed to be — very seldom was I able to accomplish both simultaneously. It’s laughable that they give you torque settings for places it’s almost impossible to even get a wrench. And what is the rationale for bizarre fasteners like the anti-theft screws on the MAF sensor?
2. I’ve seen more CEL’s from this car in the last year than from all the other cars I’ve had in my life combined. It’s hard for me to imagine getting a CEL that generated 4 codes while sitting at a traffic light, but it’s happened. Another time I killed the engine at a traffic light and it generated a flashing CEL with and ran very poorly when I restarted and drove a couple of blocks to where I could pull off. About 10 minutes later I restarted the car to move it and Voila! no CEL at all and the car ran fine. I’ve gotten to the point where now there’s not even a rapid intake of breath when the light comes on.
3. I’ve never experienced the quagmire that seems to surround the choice of motor oil for the car. Everyone seems to have an opinion and there’s little agreement of the best choice. I diligently read all of them I could find and finally decided that I was going to fork over the extra dough to get the Driven DT40 oil but when I went to the website to purchase it, I put in the specifics for my Boxter and it indicated that the DT40 was “incompatible” with my car. In fact, it indicated that it was incompatible with any car that was equipped with a catalytic converter.

Now that I’ve blown off the steam, let me tell you in spite of all that I love the car. It feels great, it handles wonderfully, has plenty of pep, is gorgeous, and I can’t help but feel that the car caresses me when I sit in it. I remember thinking early on that I was surprised at the amount of engine noise I heard when driving the car. I figured it only made sense that since the engine was behind me it would decrease the noise level. Then I figured it out — there was virtually no wind noise to drown out the sound of the engine.

It may be terribly over-engineered, but it’s still the car of my dreams.

[Newsguy]

I have a 99 with almost exactly the same mileage.
I would differ on the serviceablity. You don't mention your resources, but I realized early on that most service is far more easily accomplished with a lift for these cars. I really don't find it hard to work on it even though I no longer have the lift, but a quick jack (which is just better than jacks and stands.) Being a mid-engine vehicle, it is never going to be as accessible as a conventional layout.
Mine hasn't had a lot of engine lights. The one time it did was when the coolant tank, tanked. That is the only time I've had a failure. German plastics are a common problem in my BMWs as well.
This one is a very comfortable for trips, and yet I took it on-track a few months ago where it did great. It's not fast, but the fun factor is uncanny for the age and power.
That oil issue you found is due to the Driven using ingredients lacking in most oils for reasons of fuel economy and some questionable political engineering. Check with the Oil Guy for more detailed explanation of why you want something better for your engine.
Glad you like yours!

[N227RV]

I own a 2004, replacing the year 2000 that I retired with 237,000 miles on the odometer. I did think at first that these cars were difficult to work on, but over time I became accustomed to working on them and don't mind anymore. The oddball TORX screws for the MAF sensor still rankle me, though. It must have been a requirement in the EU to keep owners from self-service of the emissions system import is all I can suppose. As for oil, I follow the owners manual.

[10/10ths]

…..whatever site you were on gave you the “no go” because that oil does not meet the SAE “Star Label” requirement for low ZDDP. There used to be a concern that high ZDDP oils killed catalytic converters.

We have enough data and time now to know that is not the case.


Change your oil every six months or 5,000 miles with the DT40 and you will be just fine.

As for the other issues, well, yeah. She’s a mid-engined mistress with all the trouble and fun that that entails.

You gotta buy a diamond necklace and take her out to dinner and a movie to keep the fun going between the twisty sheets.

Enjoy the ride.