This is water pump failure right?

[bigbuber]

(01 boxster s) Car started making light pulley noises the past few drives that changed with RPM. Then last drive, coolant started dripping and smoking from rear right tire area. As I arrived home, the coolant all rapidly drained from the same area, reservoir was empty, and the coolant light was flashing.

Car's been parked. Now working on it weeks later. Jacked up rear, removed plastic skid tray, added some more coolant to find leak, massive leak comes from water pump area, highest drip I can find is behind the water pump pulley.

Car has 98k miles, and the maintenance records don't mention ever replacing water pump, so this is a water pump failure I assume? But wait there's more. I also found what appears to be a previous leak in the trunk. Are these issues even related?? I found a tiny bit of coolant in the trunk after the pump failed, but there is no way gallons drained out of it hours prior. Even when I just dumped more coolant in for testing, there was none leaking in the trunk. HOWEVER, there is big pink stains all over the trunk. Maybe the overflow tank leaked at one point but was replaced with a previous owner? But my coolant tank does have some bits of pink crust I found on the bottom of it so I don't know. Maybe it only leaks when the system is at operating pressure. Probably not going to DIY this job but I just want to have an idea of what's going on before I go to a mechanic.

[bigbuber]

Videos of major leak. I added some spaces in the links so the automod doesn't delete them

Area where leak is
htt ps://youtu.be/dmQ09JJWbOg

Closeup
htt ps://youtu.be/UGrTf1CIHE4

[Deserion]

Frankly I’d just replace the tank with a genuine unit at this point. It’s certainly showing its age, and I even replaced my tank when it was a lot whiter than that one.

[blue62]

The water pump is in the center of the engine not the right hand side of the engine.
If you have coolant draining near the right rear wheel that is where the coolant tank overflow tube is.
There is no possible way for a failed water pump to cause coolant to leak into the trunk area.
You could possibly have multiple coolant system issues.

Failed pump...failed coolant tank....failed coolant hoses.

Do a proper pressure test of the system then you don't have to guess what or where the issue is.
If your taking it to a shop then they should do there own diagnosis.

[bigbuber]

Originally Posted by Deserion

Frankly I’d just replace the tank with a genuine unit at this point. It’s certainly showing its age, and I even replaced my tank when it was a lot whiter than that one.

Will do. I do still wonder how it leaked coolant but seems to be still sealed. My coolant level never changed until this major leak.

[bigbuber]

Originally Posted by blue62

The water pump is in the center of the engine not the right hand side of the engine.
If you have coolant draining near the right rear wheel that is where the coolant tank overflow tube is.
There is no possible way for a failed water pump to cause coolant to leak into the trunk area.
You could possibly have multiple coolant system issues.

Failed pump...failed coolant tank....failed coolant hoses.

Do a proper pressure test of the system then you don't have to guess what or where the issue is.
If your taking it to a shop then they should do there own diagnosis.

It leaked from the right side because of the skid plate. If you watch my video, you can see coolant leaking heavy from what I assume is the water pump. Can someone confirm?

And who knows why there is leaked coolant in the trunk and the pump area. Probably unrelated but idk

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by bigbuber

It leaked from the right side because of the skid plate. If you watch my video, you can see coolant leaking heavy from what I assume is the water pump. Can someone confirm?

And who knows why there is leaked coolant in the trunk and the pump area. Probably unrelated but idk

I watched the second vid:

You need to replace the water pump and thermostat. I'm not guessing. And, I bet, the coolant tank. Just do it... all three.

Pierburg. Don't mess around with aftermarket ****************.

[theiceman]

your first noise was the pump bearing.. your pump is toast replace it. This would be a good time to replace the stat with the LN engineering one that opens sooner and allows the engine to run cooler. .

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by theiceman

your first noise was the pump bearing.. your pump is toast replace it. This would be a good time to replace the stat with the LN engineering one that opens sooner and allows the engine to run cooler. .

Prove it. "... allows the engine to run cooler... for a few minutes until operating temprature is reached.

Or... does it open earlier to allow cooling, sooner, on the rearmost cylinders? (Hint: Yes).

Math and science, only.

Lets get it on.

Installed low temp on my 98... in 2017... engine reaches same operating temperature... wait for it... same as OEM part. Yes, I have a Durametric... and an S oil cooler.

I'm comforted knowing the thermostat opens earlier... and takes just a few more minutes to reach "operating temperature".

Now.. if there is an aftermarket part that will reduce the [B]operating temperature[/B]... share. Emphasis on "operating temperature".

Please, no democrat math or science.

[bigbuber]

Interesting development in the comments above lol

Anyway, thanks everyone for the help. I am replacing the pump, thermostat, and tank.
If this helps anyone, here are the links (delete the spaces) for all of the OEM cooling system related stuff and where I found it cheapest with shipping:


Reservoir: ht tps://porsche.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/porsche-reservoir-99610614708
Cap: ht tps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-radiator-cap-911-boxster-cayman-por-99610644704#fitment
Pump: ht tps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-engine-water-pump-911-boxster-11243008314#fitment
Low temp thermostat: htt ps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-thermostat-wahler-99610601359#fitment
Drive belt: ht tps://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610215168.htm?pn=996-102-151-68-M216&bc=c&SVSVSI=0785#kitsComAnc



Should save you a few hour of googling

[spinjockey]

Originally Posted by bigbuber

Interesting development in the comments above lol

Anyway, thanks everyone for the help. I am replacing the pump, thermostat, and tank.
If this helps anyone, here are the links (delete the spaces) for all of the OEM cooling system related stuff and where I found it cheapest with shipping:


Reservoir: ht tps://porsche.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/porsche-reservoir-99610614708
Cap: ht tps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-radiator-cap-911-boxster-cayman-por-99610644704#fitment
Pump: ht tps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-engine-water-pump-911-boxster-11243008314#fitment
Low temp thermostat: htt ps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-thermostat-wahler-99610601359#fitment
Drive belt: ht tps://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610215168.htm?pn=996-102-151-68-M216&bc=c&SVSVSI=0785#kitsComAnc



Should save you a few hour of googling

At equilibrium with the thermostat wide open, the engine should run at the same temperature regardless of low or high temperature thermostat because the thermostat does not continuously cycle open and closed. However, cylinder 6 is the furthest away in the circuit so runs the hottest compared to cylinder 1 in general. The engine oil cooler is also at the same furthest point just above cylinder 6. During warmup, the engine is developing hot spots. The low temperature thermostat helps limit any overheat scenario during warmup.


When the thermostat doesn’t open completely or correctly because of failure, you will get an overheat condition same as when there is a water pump failure. The engine develops relative hot and cold spots with hot spots being dangerous for engine component wear.

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Prove it. "... allows the engine to run cooler... for a few minutes until operating temprature is reached.

Or... does it open earlier to allow cooling, sooner, on the rearmost cylinders? (Hint: Yes).

Math and science, only.

Lets get it on.

Installed low temp on my 98... in 2017... engine reaches same operating temperature... wait for it... same as OEM part. Yes, I have a Durametric... and an S oil cooler.

I'm comforted knowing the thermostat opens earlier... and takes just a few more minutes to reach "operating temperature".

Now.. if there is an aftermarket part that will reduce the [B]operating temperature[/B]... share. Emphasis on "operating temperature".

Please, no democrat math or science.

Stat opens at 65 degrees i believe it is vs the 90 on the stock one. Stop your BS clowning around. no one gives a crap about your US politics, stick to cars.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by theiceman

Stat opens at 65 degrees i believe it is vs the 90 on the stock one. Stop your BS clowning around. no one gives a crap about your US politics, stick to cars.

65 degrees? 90 degrees? Incorrrect. You were joking, right? 160 on the low temp... 186+ on the stock.

Let me tell the jokes.

[JFP in PA]

You both are correct; one reading is in degrees C, the other F...........

[bigbuber]

On another note, I wonder if I need to do a proper flush again. I just flushed the car a year ago, so whatever coolant that is left inside the car is new enough.. I am thinking I will just fill my car up then burp it and move on. I see no reason to flush out all of the remaining coolant unless the pump impeller exploded into the fluid.